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Another No Spark Thread - Looking for Suggestions for Next Steps

Old 09-30-2018, 02:40 PM
  #1  
sherm3721
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Default Another No Spark Thread - Looking for Suggestions for Next Steps

Hello Everyone. I have another no spark thread for you. I think I posted in the right place...


Quick background:
'06 G35 RevUp from a 6MT sedan into an '04 350z Track Edition 6MT with the DE. Final build will also include a Vortech procharger. Took off the needed sensors from the G35 wiring harness and spliced them into the 350Z harness. ECM's were mapped the same except for the 02 sensors. For more information on the build itself, check out My Build Post

My build post:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-swap...non-revup.html


Current Issue: No spark.
1) I have NATS disabled from UpRev (I live in Austin so they are basically down the road) I press the correct buttons to make sure I am using the mapping UpRev downloaded.
2) Put the key in the ignition and turn to on position.
3) Fuel pump primes, but the security light is still solid.
4) Try to start the engine and it cranks and cranks and cranks.
5) I set up my phone to record the inline spark tester, but there is no spark.

Questions:
- Any other suggestions of what to look into? Below is information of what I have and have not tried yet.



Things I have tried/tested so far:
- Checked the ground from negative terminal to the frame and the engine. About 0.6 Ohms everywhere I tested.

- Battery is charged and has 12.5 V on it

- I disconnected the 02 sensors, put the original MAF sensor in (upgraded to UpRev's MAF) put in the original 350z ECM. Since the 02 Wiring was different I did not want to mess anything up. The only behavior difference I notice from "Current Issue" above is the security light goes out. Cranks but no spark.

- My Z key fob does not work with either ECM. I tried to train it with the G35 ECM, but it will not work. I have the service manuals for both cars.

- Played around with the wheel lock which is tied to NATS, but it is disabled. No difference.

- Checked continuity of all the pins I replaced in the ECM before I put the harness on the car. I will add an attachment of the ECM mapping for the pins that I put together.
1) Blank - indicates the connection was blank on the 350Z harness, but those slots will not be occupied by connections from the added G35 sensors.
2) DISCONNECT - indicates the connection was occupied and needs to be unplugged in order to add the G35 sensors
3) Empty cell - indicates that the connection exists and does not need rewiring.



Things I have not tried/tested yet:
- Replacing Cam sensors

- Checked all the power and ground pins on the ECM

- I only have a simple OBD reader. I am not able to see what all the signals are doing on the ECM. I would have to take it to UpRev or dealer (if it does not remove my UpRev license on the ECM) if I get to that point.

- Need to make sure inline spark tester actually works.



ECM Connections

Last edited by sherm3721; 10-01-2018 at 08:58 AM. Reason: Typos, adding info
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Old 10-01-2018, 07:22 PM
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Swapped intake cam sensors - no change. I may need to buy the other cam sensors and a new crank position sensor to know. Maybe new intake sensors to ensure that they are all working properly.

Coil has 12 volts on the power pin when the key is in the on position.

I have a crapping oscilloscope and it seemed there was a signal on the pulse pin, but it could have just been noise. I need to figure out a better setup.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:37 PM
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Followed the ignition signal diagnostic section from the manual. Everything looks good except for the pulses to the coils from the ECM. They do not look as depicted in the manual. I tried a better setup this time.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:50 PM
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The end of the post has all the graphs that I took. I just a National Instruments myDAQ (had it sitting around from school) to capture some analog waveforms similar to an oscilloscope. I have two channels, but I only used one for now.

Captured signals for:
- Crank sensor
- Exhaust cam sensors
- Intake cam sensors

Crank and exhaust look fine from what information I found in the manual. Then the intake cam sensor on the driver side was repeatably giving me varying pulse widths.

First - I went through the manual and followed the troubleshooting guide there. Everything was fine: power, grounds, and continuity.
Second - I swapped the cam sensor with one from the previous engine and got a graph that looked the same.

At this point that means either the ECM or cam has something wrong most likely. I swapped the pins for the two cam sensors on the ECM itself. The driver side circuit now looks correct. That means there is nothing wrong mechanically with the cam.

The passenger side which previously was working yielded no signals. It just gave me a DC voltage. I think what likely is happening is I did not seat the pin all the way or my T-pin is not getting to the connection on the harness properly.

To do:
- Make sure the T-pin has continuity with the other side of the harness to make sure I have a good connection and go from there. That is a job for tomorrow.
- Depending on how that goes, swap the pins back, and then look at the pin 14 and 33 at the same time to make sure the offset in the two waveforms is correct.
Here is what the signals should look like according to the manual.




Crank Position sensor output


Exhaust cam sensor signals


The top (red) is the passenger side. Bottom (green) is the driver side. The pulse widths should not change. So I need to chase this down.


I swapped pins 14 and 33 and tested again. Now the driver side was showing the correct signals. However, the once working passenger side was only yielding a DC voltage. I need to double check my setup and make sure the pin is connected all the way.
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Old 10-09-2018, 01:35 PM
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Well, it turns out that there are 2 bad cam sensors. Just waiting on my order from Rock Auto.

I tried getting some Cam sensors from Autozone (Duralast brand... I was desperate). They do not work in the car. Getting some Hitachi sensors from RockAuto. Got a Crank sensor too just to be safe. Ill update if it sparks when I get the sensors in a few days.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:29 PM
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I got some Hitachi sensors in today from Rock Auto. Put one in the Intake Cam slot on the driver side. It gave me elongated pulses. Swapped it with the exhaust cam sensor from the other side and then all the cam sensors were giving me (what I think) to be correct signals. Still....no....spark.

I am about to give up and get it to a shop somewhere.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:29 AM
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Is your flywheel aligned properly? Mine wasnít and caused me to never get a spark.

Last edited by Kevin Skene; 10-13-2018 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:50 PM
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As far as I know, yes. I get proper crank signals.

Today I got a better scope to look at the ignition and injector signals. I have injector pulses, but NO ignition pulses.... I have no idea why.
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Old 10-17-2018, 07:51 PM
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Well... I cannot find any bad grounds, any more bad sensors, etc. I think it is time to through in the towel and look for a garage. Found a place called Smiley Autowerks in Kyle Texas. Once I have the radiator fans mounted and super charger installed, I will get it to the shop and go from there.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:34 AM
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Playing the waiting game of getting the car into the shop. They are pretty busy.
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Old 12-25-2018, 07:32 PM
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Well, I have spark. Turns out my buddy who I bought the motor from put the flywheel on one bolt hole off. Once I rotated it to the proper position I have spark.

And yes, there is a dowel, but it gets pushed right into the block is you mess up and tighten the flywheel in the wrong spot.
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