I mean it's NOT going away and if it's on it's last leg just keep oil in your car and fill it at the beginning of each trip you can't kill what's already dead lol.
As far as too much? I'd say if you are losing oil pressure or enough oil to fall out of the hashes on the dip stick in one trip, then it's time to park it.

 

Considering he already got a new trans might as well get a long block from Nissan. $6000ish and will last a while.

 

Haha you must think that I am made of money kind sir.. I certainly am not Its taken me 2 years of savings, working full time, and school, to buy the Z with a bad transmission. To put that into perspective for you, that's roughly $7500. But thank you for your generous thoughts haha!

 

Calvin, this is the past 1,000 miles ive put on the car since ownership. As THIRZTY mentioned above, that downshifting has an impact, and going down hills etc. I drove hilly roads for 800 miles, dowshifting and keeping rpms between 2,000-3,500 for new trans and clutch break in. Ive since learned if I am not downshifting, or revving out to 4500rpm, I dont smell oil being burnt with the windows down.

 

It's not that I think you are made of money, it's just blunt realism and trying to give you a perspective! Like I said with the trans, some things you just have to sacrifice for. If you like the car and everything I'd say a long block is a relatively "cheap" bang for buck considering they come with a warranty and you could at that point have a car that would last you another 100k+ miles.
I've seen this guy on IG constantly swap out engines for used ones (I think I've seen 3 so far) all that hassle and labor go to waste and eventually you will hit that point where you should have just done it right the first time lol. Labor is expensive and if you arent doing stuff yourself you will quickly find out that a rebuild will cost more that a factory long block.
Although performance parts but a long block from a place like Soho "starts" at $12k I'm sure quite a bit of that is labor.

 

That being said, what I would suggest is to a good synthetic 0-40 or 5-40 and just keep driving it until it quits, get a catch can if you don't have one and don't worry about it until you have to. My car has sludge in the engine and a rear main leak, and quite a bit of blow by, it's been like that for a bit now and I drive it hard, although I don't drive it often. I know it's on its last leg but I ain't worried about it.

 

Thanks for the information DarkZ03! Certainly appreciate it! And will do for the next oil change!
With a catch can, that’s only the passenger side PCV, so I would need a tiny air filter and block off for the driver side right?

 

You can, but I chose not to. I don't get as much oil there, the manifold side gets more since it's under vacuum most of the time.