So I just bought a new Jim Wolf clutch for my 2003 enthusiast and drove on it for about 2k miles. Brought the car to the dealer and they tell me I need a new clutch and texted me the first two pictures I attached indicating the thickness of the clutch. I responded by explaining that I literally just bought a new one. He says it was probably I shitting or wrong fitting clutch (which neither of those are true). Then, 30 mins later he says the clutch might be alright saying "we're trying to figure out what's going on because it looks like it's only hitting half the clutch and fly will just buy the burn marks" He also said the clutch appears to stay engaged while driving, ultimately wearing on both sides and send the other two pictures. He also said that something is definitely wrong since rubbing is going on... Based on the pictures does that clutch look okay to put back into the car or do I need to replace it? I don't ride the clutch at all so I feel like the dealer is just trying to pull a fast one on me.

 

Did you install it and do a proper break in?

 

Had it installed by a reputable shop didn’t break it in properly but did not track the car or drive that hard. Do I need to buy a new clutch?

 

Not trying to be mean, but do you know how to properly drive a manual? That clutch has been abused far beyond normal and the surface of the flywheel is probably warped. To answer your question, YES you need a new clutch and flywheel but before you go changing them you need to assess what you are doing wrong or causing that to happen, I am at 93k with the same clutch.

 

Improperly torqued pressure plate or clutch fork installed incorrectly - also inspect the pivot ball. Is it the correct one for your year? There’s obvious friction problems.

So why is the dealer messing with it? Why didn’t you take it back to the “reputable” shop that did the work in the first place?

 

This seems to be a step that everyone misses the majority of the time - It's possible that the push rod for the master was not properly adjusted after install. It appears to be on point with what you're describing:

 

lol I don't ride the clutch at all. Taught my buddy how to drive manual and did a couple donuts but other than that there's been no overuse of it, never tracked it. The clutch is only worn on certain sides so I feel like it was a shop error.

 

Micvelo,
Transmission was making a weird noise and I didn't want to take it back to the shop that did the job, the owner is a total scumbag yet has great reviews, I doubt he's going to admit his shop had any wrongdoing. Since the clutch is worn unevenly and was only driven for 2k miles. Is this definitely a shop error?

 

Gonna play devil's advocate here.
It's the Service Manager's job to maximize sales and labor for every car that comes in down to air filters and wiper blades. If he were unscrupulous he could text you pics of someone else's worn out parts and you'd never know.
The shop I use is always willing to answer any questions I have and happy for me to return if I suspect issues with their parts/work. They don't get defensive because they're professionals and I don't act like a jerk when I have problems.

Since you're now at their mercy I hope they do a good job at a fair price. Gl!

 

In addition to a probable misaligned clutch pedal (partial disengagement) it does appear the only contact point on the flywheel is the very thin line at the outer edge of the flywheel. I noticed you didn't state whether or not you replaced the flywheel or rather the replacement friction surface. If the flywheel is excessively worn, it can't engage with the disc surface.

I'd replace the flywheel friction surface and install a new clutch. Your shop didn't do you any favors by not advising that to begin with. That clutch didn't stand a chance to last.

When you get it sorted, do yourself a favor and drive as though you have a glass of water on the hood and you're trying not to spill it for 500 city miles before you go to WOT.

 

I did also have a Jim wolf lightweight flywheel installed with the clutch. Im confused whether it was something I did or the shop was at fault.

 

Not sure If the shop also installed a new friction plate when they installed the flywheel and clutch in.

 

This ^^^ is great info and possible cause for sure!

What did you do? Thought shop did the whole install? Not pointing fingers but if you did part of the job, the shop has an out. "Well, you did the _________ so it's not our fault. Classic finger pointing. Had guys come into the shop with problems and when stories were inconsistent (many a time), I always got the truth out of them... "Well, I tried to change the frammowitz but I think the Autozone guy gave me the wrong part." That's usually about the time the wife steps in and says, "Just pay to get it fixed, moron, I gotta use the car to drive junior to school!" and I write up a work order.

If you bought the JWT clutch, the pressure plate AND disc are always included together. If driven right, it's rare that one or the other is worn out, supposed to be matched wear.

 

I bought the combo clutch & flywheel kit which was to be put onto a brand new transmission I bought from z1 because the original one had the synchro grind in third really horribly. They did everything from top to bottom. Called the shop and they’re trying to stay it’s my fault because I don’t know how to drive stick which is so far from the truth. Haven’t showed them the pictures yet I’m speaking to the owner further tomorrow and will be showing them then. I will definitely break the clutch in gently but could me not doing that really be the cause of this clutch to wear so quickly? The shop provides a year warranty on all their jobs so the owner says but I already know they’re going to try to point the finger at me. At this point I’m just trying to gather some evidence to prove it was their fault and not mine. That way I can just have the dealer put it back together drive it back to the shop and have him make good on it.

 

Unless it was indeed my fault.

 

If it was a new flywheel and new clutch, donuts and teaching someone to drive a manual didn't help.

BTW, the dealer is going to charge you labor to put it back together, or, maybe 4-5 hours for diagnosis & removal if you pick it up disassembled. As long as it's there and you can't do the job yourself, you might as well have the dealer finish it. If you take it back to the independent dealer as a "come back", you're going to have a bad time.

 

^^^^^ This,exactly what I said in post 9. Cut your losses.

 

That is a JWT combo not hard to tell. Do NOT take it back to that shop, just see it as a loss. I'm a mechanic, from experience I can tell you that won't end well and they will screw you over. Just pay the dealer to fix it and they "should" do it properly. If anything I would see if the initial shop would be willing to buy you another clutch and flywheel but my guess will be no. Also I wouldn't reuse any metal in a car that has been blued from heat EVER specially not a flywheel.
An accurate answer for your question cannot be given, can not breaking in a clutch cause damage to it, yes. How much depends on how it was driven. If you think you didn't abuse it then it was probably as mentioned above not adjusted correctly. Both of those cases are the only way a clutch is getting that hot.

 

Okay thank you everyone, I’m going to have the dealer put a new clutch in. Do I need to get a new flywheel as well?

 

At minimum a new friction surface but I would replace it was overheated and could be warped.