NEW STREET TILTON CLUTCH!!! (Coming Soon) Feels like stock - Revv's like MAD!
#48
I cant tell you how many times I tried replying to this thread and it never worked... so im going to try again...
The pedal stop is there to not hyper extend the pressure plate... it may re-engauge the clutch when you press the pedal all the way to the floor... to keep that from hapening it is best to only press in the clutch about half way (all that is needed with the tilton)... if you do not install the pedal stop and only press the clutch in half way there will be no problems...
the install is pretty much the same as the stock set up only your using the tilton clutch bolts...
It comes with in structions on how to set up the clutch pack but it already comes set up and ready to bolt on to the flywheel...
The pedal stop is there to not hyper extend the pressure plate... it may re-engauge the clutch when you press the pedal all the way to the floor... to keep that from hapening it is best to only press in the clutch about half way (all that is needed with the tilton)... if you do not install the pedal stop and only press the clutch in half way there will be no problems...
the install is pretty much the same as the stock set up only your using the tilton clutch bolts...
It comes with in structions on how to set up the clutch pack but it already comes set up and ready to bolt on to the flywheel...
#49
Hi Jason, I was reading the posts about the Tilton 8lb clutch set up on your car. I have a 03 track with the following modifications:
Dynoed @ 275 RWHP
Technos ECU Flash;
Injen RD Cold Air Intake;
350EVO Throttle Body;
Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley;
Borla Headers Borla True Dual Exhaust;
Random Technology High Flow Cats;
JTW Fidanza Light Weight Fly Wheel & Clutch;
350EVO 3.9 Final Drive;
NISMO LSD;
NISMO Thermostat;
As well as
S-Tune Suspension Coil Over; S-Tune Anti-Sway Bars; Recaro Pole Position Racing Shells (driver & passanger); SSR Comp H 18x9 Front; SSR Comp H 18X10.5 Rear; Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 265/35/18 F; Michelin pilot Sport Cup 285/30/18 R; Pagit Track Rated Brake Pads; DBA Slotted Discs Front, DBA Cross Drilled / slotted Rear; Goodridge SS Brake Lines; Nismo GT Titanium Shift ****; 350EVO Racing Harness Bar; Schroth Profi III 6 Point Harness x 2; 350EVO Upper control Arms -1.5 degree; Stillen Rear Toe and Camber Arms; NISMO Finned Diff Cover; NISMO Front Lip; NISMO Side Skirts
So here is my question:
I do a LOT of track days and I would like to know what you recommend that I upgrade from the above list if I am going to add a Super Charger? I want to be reliable, fast and safe!
Dynoed @ 275 RWHP
Technos ECU Flash;
Injen RD Cold Air Intake;
350EVO Throttle Body;
Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley;
Borla Headers Borla True Dual Exhaust;
Random Technology High Flow Cats;
JTW Fidanza Light Weight Fly Wheel & Clutch;
350EVO 3.9 Final Drive;
NISMO LSD;
NISMO Thermostat;
As well as
S-Tune Suspension Coil Over; S-Tune Anti-Sway Bars; Recaro Pole Position Racing Shells (driver & passanger); SSR Comp H 18x9 Front; SSR Comp H 18X10.5 Rear; Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 265/35/18 F; Michelin pilot Sport Cup 285/30/18 R; Pagit Track Rated Brake Pads; DBA Slotted Discs Front, DBA Cross Drilled / slotted Rear; Goodridge SS Brake Lines; Nismo GT Titanium Shift ****; 350EVO Racing Harness Bar; Schroth Profi III 6 Point Harness x 2; 350EVO Upper control Arms -1.5 degree; Stillen Rear Toe and Camber Arms; NISMO Finned Diff Cover; NISMO Front Lip; NISMO Side Skirts
So here is my question:
I do a LOT of track days and I would like to know what you recommend that I upgrade from the above list if I am going to add a Super Charger? I want to be reliable, fast and safe!