Should i have got the JWT valve springs for their cams since my car is going to be over redline with the technosqaure reflash. It seems to me that the factory springs may have over extended and cant go back fully on my car thats why i have a compression loss.

Thanks Glen

 

What the hells the point of the dam jwt valve springs if you dont need them for their cams? It says used for being reved over 7000 and i am with the reflash. So do i need them now because the factory ones are not strong anofe for 7200, and cause the valves not to close all the way.

Thanks Glen

 

IMO, get them installed, while everything is open.

I'm sure JWT would be more then helpful explaining why you need them and hopefully where the stockers give out.

 

I would suggest retainers also. Its open. Might as well do those to.

 

ya it will save you a bunch of money doing it all at once.

 

I did them when I got my cams installed for the above reason . Indeed might as well and it certainly isnt going to hurt performance. As a result engine is very smooth and tight at higher PRM's and if you have the reflash you can rev without worry of any valve float.

 

Rebuilding the lower end with in the next week or so [ SGP racing ] Adding JWT cams , springs , and retainers . 7000rpm and 10 to 12 bls of boost on 92 octane is the goal

 

The JWT S1 cams increase lift. When the rev limter is raised to >7000 there is an increased likely-hood of valve float. Personally the reason I would raise the rev limter at all for the FI setup is to buy upshift time , specifically from 1st to 2nd. I find hitting the rev limiter quite couter prodictive. So the raised limit is not for constant operation above the OEM rev limit. The heavy springs are for piece of mind against float either during high RPM upshifts or God forbid , a missed downshift. As for the HD "Titamium" retainers , I consider them overkill for the purpose just mentioned. If you are building an 8k rpm race mill (most likely na) then they would be warranted IMO, but then again the JWT S1s are too mild for that kind of build.

 

no need for springs using only stock cams...i routinely downshift at the track up to 7250 (and trust me, i track a lot) with no issues (i would guess at least 30% of my cars miles are track miles, 50% if you count my drive to the track and back!) ...true, i may be accelerating wear but trust me when i say that the stock motor is a tank and can be run without fear up to 7250 for LIMITED amounts of time...

-Rich

 

Yeh with the OEM cams agreed , but I think the gist of the thread was WRT JWT cams , which have ~10mm lift. Revving to 7250 + the added lift => safer to use a stiffer spring, HD retainers to a lesser extent.

 

MY timing chain was off a cog or two the first time we did the cams so we moved it back to the correct location the second. But the damage had already occured I figured out why also. I held the cam with a wrench to stop the crank from moving so i could tighten my pulley. While that was happening so much pressure was on tensioner that it jumped teeth, because the chain links are so shallow. I feel now because of this i damaged my valves. Thats why i have 165 and 150 compression on the cylinder banks. Also im going to get new valves, jwt valves springs and retainers, and have my heads ported and polished while i do this.

Does anyone know were i can buy valves oem or aftermarket?

Thanks Glen

 

Well if you are going to replace all the valves and port the heads you may want to consider some larger (+1mm) valves. SGP racing has them.