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Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil

Old 06-27-2007, 08:35 AM
  #181  
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After I drained the differential, I went straight to the tranny. After that was drained, it was time to refill. Notice the nice little inexpensive pump I used. Some people use a suction gun. I prefer the pump because you just insert it directly into the bottle...

And again, here's the tranny drain plug after it's cleaned up. Whether it's dirty or not, it still won't have all the crude build up like the differential plug.
Attached Thumbnails Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil-imgp2499.jpg   Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil-imgp2500.jpg   Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil-imgp2495.jpg  
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Old 06-27-2007, 08:37 AM
  #182  
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After everything was done and said, time to torque everything down.

I used 56 ft. lbs for the differential and 27 ft. lbs for the tranny....

That pretty much wraps it up. Enjoy the pics.

Val
Attached Thumbnails Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil-imgp2501.jpg   Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil-imgp2506.jpg   Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil-imgp2496.jpg  
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:01 AM
  #183  
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^^thanks for the merge Dave
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:39 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by pierced5
Changed my diff. fluid today. I used Mobil Synthetic. It's easy and I didn't even need to lift the car. If you lie on your back between the tail pipes and scoot in a little you can access both the drain and fill plugs. As far as the washers are concerned, just inspect them and make sure they aren't gouged or bent in any manner prior to reinstallation.
Wow, you must be slim and don't get claustrophobic.
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Old 07-12-2007, 07:09 AM
  #185  
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crush washers can be flat. the material is a defined hardness and compress to form the proper seal. This is like head bolts that stretch a predetermined amount and should not be reused. When reused these devices provide altered and untested results. My only negative expericnce with drain plugs is volvo oil drain plug washers leak after the third use.
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Old 07-12-2007, 01:57 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by arejohn
crush washers can be flat. the material is a defined hardness and compress to form the proper seal. This is like head bolts that stretch a predetermined amount and should not be reused. When reused these devices provide altered and untested results. My only negative expericnce with drain plugs is volvo oil drain plug washers leak after the third use.
so in other words.....just use the same ones over.
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:16 PM
  #187  
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hrmm kinda went through this entire thread...and I wish I did before I had my transmission switched to Motul 300 75W90 GL-5...now some websites specify that the one i got is a SAE 75W90 ... is this still improper tranmissions fluid? should I start panicing?

(the top 100 questions chart on fluids lists: Genuine Nissan Transmission or GL-4 , Viscosicty SAE 75W-80, 75W-90)
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:56 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by xdragus
hrmm kinda went through this entire thread...and I wish I did before I had my transmission switched to Motul 300 75W90 GL-5...now some websites specify that the one i got is a SAE 75W90 ... is this still improper tranmissions fluid? should I start panicing?

(the top 100 questions chart on fluids lists: Genuine Nissan Transmission or GL-4 , Viscosicty SAE 75W-80, 75W-90)
Get that GL-5 chit out of your tranny. It's not good for it. GL-5 is for the differential. The tranny uses GL-4. Follow my write-up and you will have no problem.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:23 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by xdragus
hrmm kinda went through this entire thread...and I wish I did before I had my transmission switched to Motul 300 75W90 GL-5...now some websites specify that the one i got is a SAE 75W90 ... is this still improper tranmissions fluid? should I start panicing?

(the top 100 questions chart on fluids lists: Genuine Nissan Transmission or GL-4 , Viscosicty SAE 75W-80, 75W-90)
the 300v is gl4 and gl5 compliant so you should be safe. sharif from forged performance says it a really good
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:32 PM
  #190  
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wow, i just recently changed mine out after 50k, it feels so much better! she definitely rolls smoother. i used royal purple.
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Old 09-04-2007, 11:24 AM
  #191  
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Here is just another endorsement for doing this process yourself.
I went with the Redline mixture for the Tranny, and the straight redline gear oil for the Diff.

The most difficult part of the operation is getting the car on the jackstands...really.

The whole operation was a breeze. I didn't have any helpers (my wife ran at the smell of the differential fluid), so I did have to slide in an out to load up the pump gun, but other than that....no probs.

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Old 09-19-2007, 09:02 AM
  #192  
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I really want to do this since I'm coming up on my 30000 miles but im still not sure with what what brand to go with...I'm not trying to spend an arm and a leg but I dont want anything cheap....and also if I have a base w/o LSD do I really need that hard core of diff oil. With all the different reviews of the stuff in this thread its making my decision hard...I can get Royal Purple locally at the pep-boys but someone had mentioned how it was bad. So I'm not sure what to do.

So for those of you who have used it, what are your impressions and to those who don't have LSD, what did you use in the diff?

Thanks guys
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:48 PM
  #193  
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do you guys think the synthetic is worth the extra $$, or would it be better to just go with the OEM oils? I'm thinking about getting the amsoil stuff.
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:02 AM
  #194  
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i have the nismo lsd and am going to be using motul 90pa, reccommended by jeff at west covina nissan. the tranny oil im still up in arms about, but i think the motul 300v will be the one. so anybody else with this fluid besides sherif have experience with this fluid?
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:22 AM
  #195  
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i just changed my diff fluid this past weekend to motul gear 300 and mannnnnnnnnn...shifts sooooooo much better!!! mad props to my boy masterj26 who took time out of his busy schedule to come give me a hand. i was surprised the diff only took 1 1/2 bottles of gear 300 to fill up. at 30k miles im going to use the other 4 1/2 bottles of gear 300 to change out my tranny fluid. great product and thanks Sharif for the recommendation!
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:58 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by pony_killer
i just changed my diff fluid this past weekend to motul gear 300 and mannnnnnnnnn...shifts sooooooo much better!!! mad props to my boy masterj26 who took time out of his busy schedule to come give me a hand. i was surprised the diff only took 1 1/2 bottles of gear 300 to fill up. at 30k miles im going to use the other 4 1/2 bottles of gear 300 to change out my tranny fluid. great product and thanks Sharif for the recommendation!
I'm glad to see ya got it done.
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:06 PM
  #197  
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well i couldnt find a local Redline Dealer so i just ordered it from amazon since i had a 25 dollar off coupon.

(2)http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Synth...JKJ7WSX79NCKFZ

(2)http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Oil-Re...JKJ7WSX79NCKFZ

(2)http://www.amazon.com/RED-LINE-OIL-M...XRASNPMYFZFNQV

Last edited by Mr_Kebo; 11-25-2007 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 11-30-2007, 08:18 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by 350ZREDLINE
well it comes in 75-90 and 75-90NS..

NS does not have the LSD additives. I have an LSD, but im still not 100% sure if i need the additives.
Unless you have a Nismo or other aftermarket LSD, you have a viscous LSD. The additive is for a clutch-type LSD. It's to add slip. For most people, that means it's quiet in the parking lot.

The viscous LSD does not need the additive, as there are no clutches. Torsen-style (helical) LSDs don't need it either.

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Old 12-02-2007, 06:12 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Asterix
Unless you have a Nismo or other aftermarket LSD, you have a viscous LSD. The additive is for a clutch-type LSD. It's to add slip. For most people, that means it's quiet in the parking lot.

The viscous LSD does not need the additiveas, there are no clutches. Torsen-style (helical) LSDs don't need it either.

Asterix

Viscous LSDs do have clutches but I think they are sealed from the gear oil.
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Old 12-03-2007, 05:13 PM
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Since the plates don't rub against one another, they're not clutches. It's more a torque converter than a clutch, according to that diagram. And, as you point out, they're in a sealed can, away from the gear oil, living in their own silicone heaven.

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