SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

well probably because if its making 12 hp over a spacer combo then its not really a POS anymore. but I do agree, its a bit off the subject.

03VQ35DETT

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know mods are stretched thin but if they could pretty much delete just about everything on these last few pages since people decided a DIY thread was a place to go to bash on people for their DIY project and tell them to get pre fabbed intakes or a place to discuss pre fabbed intakes and their power gains compared to other pre fabbed intakes. cause this has gotten out of hand

binder

iTrader: (8)

quick question:

how do you match the lower runners to the heads? I'm trying to think of a way to do this with the engine in the car but it seems like it would be impossible to keep the metal out of the head.

I have ported heads so i would like to match the runners to the heads and plenum to the runners since it's winter and the car isn't in service.

bikinilust

iTrader: (9)

Thats a good question.... Maybe a rag, then really sticky duct tape, making sure the tape touches all around the inside walls to plug the hole, everything being about 2" down into it - giving you room to gasket match....then clean up using a high powered vacuum to suck all metal shavings. Then a damp rag to get anything that might be remaining..... Then cross your fingers that all went well

SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

I would not port the heads without removing them from the block, the chance of getting a metal shaving in the engine is not worth it to me.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

it has to be removed

binder

iTrader: (8)

nemesis.....


i guess it will have to wait until i blow it up. I just put this built motor in a few weeks ago. I'm not taking it out for a while. I'll just do the lower to the runners and call it a day.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

The lower most part of the plenum is fairly well matched to the heads. The time to do the heads is before it goes back together unfortunately. Honestly though on an FI setup it is not all that critical, especially if you're using a stock plenum - I wouldn't bother taking it apart just to do this unless you've got spare time on your hands and are bored on a saturday. Just take the gasket, trace it with a marker, and use a die grinder to gasket match it.

SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

after putting my ported runners against the heads today I noticed a pretty big chunk of material that can be removed to match. but yeah if you are FI not such a big deal

binder

iTrader: (8)

eh, if i'm not going to get any real gains from it then i might not do it. I have an extra plenum and runners from my stock block sitting over in the corner of the garage. I might do it on that then swap them. I know i'm at least going to lower the front 2 runners on the plenum.

The motorcycle heads are completely torn down when I port them so i've never had to worry about matching surfaces again. Car engine is already together so i'm not taking it apart....lol

Do you guys reuse the gaskets from the runners to the heads or not? i've had the plenum off a number of times and the gasket seems to be fine but i wasn't sure what kind of gasket it between the runners and heads.

SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

I think they could be reused once if you are careful, but I bought these to cut down on heat soak more.

https://my350z.com/forum/misc/427992...s-30-00-a.html

this with iso thermal makes for a cold intake.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Are you using those, or are they just something you plan to use?

I tried using an isothermal gasket between the plenum and collector the last time I put the car together....it leaked in multiple spots and was one of the reasons I didn't have time to dyno - giant waste of money IMHO. Thankfully I had a new OEM one on hand, and once we swapped it in, the leaks were gone.

I've since adopted the idea that if NISMO chooses not to use them on their factory effort race cars, I probably shouldn't bother using them either

http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2.../05/its-alive/

I should have listened to myself when I was thinking aloud before trying to install it:

http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2...ming-together/

My IAT sensor is in my plenum, mounted up front. I powdercoated (no special ceramic coating or anything) the outside of the intake pipe, plenum and lower collector. I left the insides in their raw aluminum.



While idling and stationary, it gets super hot, no doubt. As soon as you are moving, it cools down rapidly. I drove the car on a bunch of hot days that we had in September, and temps were in the 110 F range. Keep in mind, this is post throttle body, so the only cool air that can get in is as much as the throttle body allows past it while cruising at say 60 or 70 mph, which does not translate to alot of throttle opening. The filter is mounted in a short ram configuration, and I adopted the NISMO air duct and used a heatshield over the filter, just to keep it from ingesting hot air when the fans kick on.


[img]

Now that it's cold, measured temps have gone down as you would expect, staying within 10 F of ambient. I can't see it getting much more efficient than that. I am finally putting my vented hood back on this week and will be curious to see if temps are affected at all.

SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

yeah I put them on today, how would I know if there was a leak at that point?

so dyno results are in (still waiting for charts) but I put down 222-223 HP pre plenum assembly and 230-231 HP post

temp was around 42 F first run and up to 65 F for the second one so seems like solid gains, esp since this mustang dyno read comparatively low.

I too was concerned with the sealing of these but figured they must work or why would they sell them... I know thats a pretty weak base considering some peoples morals. Oh well, they are on... plenum made power... can't be disappointed about that. I just wonder now, if it would have made more with out those gaskets.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

if the car is running ok, idling fine and not missing, it's not leaking

SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

yep! everything sounds and feels great! the engine sounds like its taking in a lot more air, may have something to do with the hollowed out plenum, but it was also noticeably louder from my first dyno run to the second. my feelings were also confirmed by comments made by people at the dyno day.

binder

iTrader: (8)

hmm, i noticed you are talking about the lower plenum gasket. what about the aramid gasket that comes with the motodyne spacers? i'm running that and it doesn't seem to have leaks. should i switch back to the metal gasket?

SexyRob

iTrader: (11)

my aramid gasket defiantly did seal. It was stuck to the lower plenum. WD-40 and a razor blade worked on getting it off without breaking it.

binder

iTrader: (8)

yes, i have no doubt that it seals. Mine has never leaked. I was curious if it actually did anything. After a few runs at the dragstrip my plenum is so hot you can't put your hand on it so i didn't think it worked all that great.

so can i use a regular temp sensor and tap it into my plenum to check temps or do i need a special type of temp sensor?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

no idea on that one, I just use a stock gasket

things are going to get hot no matter what - everything is aluminum, and unless you have a vented hood, there is no place for the heat to go. Wrapping, or coating the manifolds helps things alot, but nevertheless, it's all going to get very hot.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

depends what you are monitering it with. On my car with the Haltech, that is my air inlet temp sensor, which combined with the MAP sensor, is being used to calculate the fuel requirements