Idler Pulley Removal Mod with Pics
#47
Registered User
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by 3kgtslflip
Anything noticeable from anyone who has done this? Like you rev faster or anything, or is it just one of those mental things knowing you have less weight in the front?
I only did it because the idler pulley sticks out further than anything else and I wanted my v-mounted radiator as close to the engine as possible.
Other than that it does look cleaner IMO.
#48
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pembroke Pines
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So with a vortech this pulley is completly bypassed right? If that is the case could you run the belt to the blower under that pulley to help prevent belt slip? Kind of like the extra pulley mod for vortech which adds a new pulley before the blower pulley, or does that pulley only turn in one direction?
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice mod. Question, what about stacking some washers? It sounds like a bolt goes right through where the spacer would go and if you stacked some washers you could avoid cutting up the stock mount. It looks to me like this mod will actually increase the contact made on the other pulleys, which should help the longetivity of the belt (slightly).
I would guess that this would improve the rotational acceleration of the engine by a very small acount since you wouldn't have to accelerate the mass of the idler pulley.
I would guess that this would improve the rotational acceleration of the engine by a very small acount since you wouldn't have to accelerate the mass of the idler pulley.
#51
You could stack the washers. If yo have the tools, cutting the stock bracket is a better plan though. Its not like you are going to use the stock pulley ever again. Also, by using the stock bracket, you are assured of having the right thickness of the spacers; you wouldn't want your P/S pump to be cocked and cause belt wear or throw a belt.
THe other option is to get the spacer from Infiniti. They have a part number for this spacer now that Infiniti is eliminating this pulley from newer VQ35DE-motored cars (was told this my the Infiniti tech.) I ordered one, but it took too long to get here so I just cut my bracket.
BTW, I have had no issues whatsoever since performing this mod.
THe other option is to get the spacer from Infiniti. They have a part number for this spacer now that Infiniti is eliminating this pulley from newer VQ35DE-motored cars (was told this my the Infiniti tech.) I ordered one, but it took too long to get here so I just cut my bracket.
BTW, I have had no issues whatsoever since performing this mod.
#52
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by QuadCam
Also, by using the stock bracket, you are assured of having the right thickness of the spacers; you wouldn't want your P/S pump to be cocked and cause belt wear or throw a belt.
You're right though -- not like we would ever want to throw it back on.
Thanks for the reply
#53
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by SoCal.VQ35DE
Very true. My plan was/is (when I decide to change my belt) use my calipers to gauge the thickness and stack the washers to that precise thickness. If the thickness wasn't close enough, I could shave down a washer with a grinding wheel (kinda tough) or get some starter shims and drill a hole in it, and cut it down to size with some tin snips.
You're right though -- not like we would ever want to throw it back on.
Thanks for the reply
You're right though -- not like we would ever want to throw it back on.
Thanks for the reply
Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
#54
Registered User
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by mavtais
Well, to do that, you would need to know the design tolerances. You can't get it to be exactly the right (or nominal) thickness, and because of this, you need to know by how far off can you be and still be good for the belt. I agree with quadcam that cutting or using the infinity spacer is the better option than stacking washers.
Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
The best way to check alignment is using a steel rule or something long and flat across the face of the crank pulley and see if there is a gap between the surface touching the crank pulley and the other accessory pullies.
#55
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mavtais
Well, to do that, you would need to know the design tolerances. You can't get it to be exactly the right (or nominal) thickness, and because of this, you need to know by how far off can you be and still be good for the belt. I agree with quadcam that cutting or using the infinity spacer is the better option than stacking washers.
Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
My stacked washer was just a suggestion for people that do not want to cut up the stock idler pulley either because they would like the option to switch back, or because they are leasing the vehicle, or for that mater, because they don't have the tools to cut through a block of aluminum.
keep in mind too that if simply cut it off, and don't file the cut to make it clean, then you're also going to be off on your thickness.
#57
Originally Posted by undrgnd
Take a healthy dump and call it a day. Do I understand correctly that the revups do NOT have this pulley?
the revups have this pulley still. my engine is a revup. Infiniti still uses the VQ35DE in the M35 and FX35. I guess the pulley is not on those motors any more.