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Idler Pulley Removal Mod with Pics

Old 12-21-2007, 04:12 PM
  #41  
Cux350z
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did you ever get the part number for the spacer?
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:57 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Cux350z
did you ever get the part number for the spacer?
+1
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:05 PM
  #43  
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No, I didn't. The dealer hasn't sent me the part yet. I was just looking at my old bracket, and think about making 2 more spacers from the left over bracket.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:51 AM
  #44  
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My Idler removal mod with all accessories pushed out 14mm for the 8-rib supercharger belt:
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Old 01-22-2008, 03:31 PM
  #45  
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Anything noticeable from anyone who has done this? Like you rev faster or anything, or is it just one of those mental things knowing you have less weight in the front?
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Old 01-22-2008, 08:55 PM
  #46  
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I don't think you'll notice anything. the engine looks cleaner without the pulley there. Like I said when I did this mod, I needed to change my belts so while I was at it, I decided to do this "free mod."
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Old 01-22-2008, 11:29 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 3kgtslflip
Anything noticeable from anyone who has done this? Like you rev faster or anything, or is it just one of those mental things knowing you have less weight in the front?

I only did it because the idler pulley sticks out further than anything else and I wanted my v-mounted radiator as close to the engine as possible.

Other than that it does look cleaner IMO.
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:13 AM
  #48  
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So with a vortech this pulley is completly bypassed right? If that is the case could you run the belt to the blower under that pulley to help prevent belt slip? Kind of like the extra pulley mod for vortech which adds a new pulley before the blower pulley, or does that pulley only turn in one direction?
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:06 PM
  #49  
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Subscribing...
I have 38,800 miles on the car... getting close to a belt change.
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:08 PM
  #50  
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Nice mod. Question, what about stacking some washers? It sounds like a bolt goes right through where the spacer would go and if you stacked some washers you could avoid cutting up the stock mount. It looks to me like this mod will actually increase the contact made on the other pulleys, which should help the longetivity of the belt (slightly).

I would guess that this would improve the rotational acceleration of the engine by a very small acount since you wouldn't have to accelerate the mass of the idler pulley.
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:45 AM
  #51  
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You could stack the washers. If yo have the tools, cutting the stock bracket is a better plan though. Its not like you are going to use the stock pulley ever again. Also, by using the stock bracket, you are assured of having the right thickness of the spacers; you wouldn't want your P/S pump to be cocked and cause belt wear or throw a belt.

THe other option is to get the spacer from Infiniti. They have a part number for this spacer now that Infiniti is eliminating this pulley from newer VQ35DE-motored cars (was told this my the Infiniti tech.) I ordered one, but it took too long to get here so I just cut my bracket.

BTW, I have had no issues whatsoever since performing this mod.
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:42 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
Also, by using the stock bracket, you are assured of having the right thickness of the spacers; you wouldn't want your P/S pump to be cocked and cause belt wear or throw a belt.
Very true. My plan was/is (when I decide to change my belt) use my calipers to gauge the thickness and stack the washers to that precise thickness. If the thickness wasn't close enough, I could shave down a washer with a grinding wheel (kinda tough) or get some starter shims and drill a hole in it, and cut it down to size with some tin snips.
You're right though -- not like we would ever want to throw it back on.

Thanks for the reply
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:19 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by SoCal.VQ35DE
Very true. My plan was/is (when I decide to change my belt) use my calipers to gauge the thickness and stack the washers to that precise thickness. If the thickness wasn't close enough, I could shave down a washer with a grinding wheel (kinda tough) or get some starter shims and drill a hole in it, and cut it down to size with some tin snips.
You're right though -- not like we would ever want to throw it back on.

Thanks for the reply
Well, to do that, you would need to know the design tolerances. You can't get it to be exactly the right (or nominal) thickness, and because of this, you need to know by how far off can you be and still be good for the belt. I agree with quadcam that cutting or using the infinity spacer is the better option than stacking washers.

Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:37 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by mavtais
Well, to do that, you would need to know the design tolerances. You can't get it to be exactly the right (or nominal) thickness, and because of this, you need to know by how far off can you be and still be good for the belt. I agree with quadcam that cutting or using the infinity spacer is the better option than stacking washers.

Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
I agree that the best way to go is to cut the stock pully assembly. However, stacking washers will do as long as you get close. While the alignment is important he should still be able to get quite close doing the washer idea if he tries it.

The best way to check alignment is using a steel rule or something long and flat across the face of the crank pulley and see if there is a gap between the surface touching the crank pulley and the other accessory pullies.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:34 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by mavtais
Well, to do that, you would need to know the design tolerances. You can't get it to be exactly the right (or nominal) thickness, and because of this, you need to know by how far off can you be and still be good for the belt. I agree with quadcam that cutting or using the infinity spacer is the better option than stacking washers.

Mat
Manufacturing Quality Engineer
I know what you mean, I am familiar with GD&T, but if I can get within a few thousanths of an inch, I'm willing to take that risk. Because we're ultimately talking about the proper positioning of a stamped steel pulley, held by a set of bearings, secured to the front plate by several bolts (One of which is the topic of discussion here) I believe there is probably more chance of misalignment due to bearing wear in the idler pulley we are removing.

My stacked washer was just a suggestion for people that do not want to cut up the stock idler pulley either because they would like the option to switch back, or because they are leasing the vehicle, or for that mater, because they don't have the tools to cut through a block of aluminum.

keep in mind too that if simply cut it off, and don't file the cut to make it clean, then you're also going to be off on your thickness.
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Old 01-27-2008, 06:42 PM
  #56  
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Take a healthy dump and call it a day. Do I understand correctly that the revups do NOT have this pulley?
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Old 01-27-2008, 06:50 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by undrgnd
Take a healthy dump and call it a day. Do I understand correctly that the revups do NOT have this pulley?

the revups have this pulley still. my engine is a revup. Infiniti still uses the VQ35DE in the M35 and FX35. I guess the pulley is not on those motors any more.
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Old 01-27-2008, 07:19 PM
  #58  
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Just to verify, I just downloaded the service manual for a 2008 FX35. Sure enough, that idler pulley is not longer on the 08 VQ35DE motors! The belt routing is exactly how I have mine now.

Name:  2008FX35Drivebelt.jpg
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Last edited by QuadCam; 01-27-2008 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 01-28-2008, 10:38 AM
  #59  
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^ The writing on the wall! Good work.
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Old 01-28-2008, 11:35 AM
  #60  
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Very intersting how they make a change mid year and add a pulley to keep the same belt. Good find!
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