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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 05:27 AM
  #101  
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so curious, if you go with the stock size UR kit and delete this pulley you just need a late model 06 belt right? Also, if you pull this pulley off and its not a bad pulley, then your tensioner does go bad, are they the same size? Can you use this one to replace the tensioner in a pinch? Seems like a good thing to keep laying around. And I know, way to breath life into a dead thread here.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 11:07 AM
  #102  
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also, If anyone was still curious if this actually made a power increase, I was thinking of deleting this pulley and add some other parts and then running a dyno, could delete the pulley then run again see if we get any benefit at all. If anything I am sure a dyno could catch it even if its .1hp either way.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 07:58 AM
  #103  
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You seem fairly new to this forum. SO.. I am going to give you a nice welcome. Before someone comes on here bashing and telling you to use the search bar or read the thread. lol.. To answer your question.. yes. If you have a stock size UR crack pulley you should be able to use a mid production 06 belt. It HAS to be mid production. Not all 06's came with this pulley removed.. No you will not be able to use the pulley to replace the tensioner in a pinch. They are diff types of pulley's. Any load/weight/resistance you remove from the rotating assy. should give you power gains. Nothing ridiculous. But every lil bit helps.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #104  
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lol thanks, i do tend to use the search button but I got lazy. Dont post much actually because almost everything I want to know someone else has already asked. I will run a dyno before/after pulling this pulley off just to see what it is, I saw a few guys earlier in the thread (albeit like a year or two ago) asking about if there was any actual gain. I figure if I am going to dyno already might as well do it and answer those guys questions. Thanks for not flaming me for being lazy. lol
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 07:11 AM
  #105  
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no problem dude. This forum is great but people can be harsh at times...cool thanks for doing the research for the rest of us and the bump on a cool thread.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 07:15 AM
  #106  
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Butt Dyno shows gains with idler delete and underdrive crank pulley.
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #107  
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i assume this delete will have underdrive effect since the belt is shortened?
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by silvertouringz
i assume this delete will have underdrive effect since the belt is shortened?
Nope. you'd have to change pulley diameters of either the drive and/or driven pulleys to have either an overdriven/underdriven effect. This mod just eliminates a pulley from the system.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:56 PM
  #109  
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hey i have some spacers if anyone is interested. pm me please!
Attached Thumbnails Idler Pulley Removal Mod with Pics-2012-03-29_08.26.35.jpg  
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 12:37 PM
  #110  
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^- ordered it last week at the dealership. now waiting for stock, ftl!
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #111  
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Default Factory Tension Specifications

Anybody know what the 2006.5 factory tension specs are? I just replaced belts and deleted the tensioner. Thanks
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #112  
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I just did this mod today - my belts were squealing like stuck pigs so it was time anyway.

Couple of tips:
You will need a breaker bar for some of the bolts.
Loosen the four 10mm bolts on the fan pulley before you remove the belts, it'll make life easier. Dont forget this or you wont be able to remove one of the 3 bolts that mount the pulley bracket to the block. Unlike the OP I didnt have enough room to get any air tools in there, and I didnt feel like removing the fans to make room.
Z1 sells the correct OEM Nissan belt and the spacer as a kit for $22, which was cheaper than my stealership wanted for just the belt. Here is the link:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5640

I really have to order that belt tensioner - my belts were crazy tight. I'd like to see if that's the correct tension or if the mechanic at the stealership who replaced my rev-up motor was on crack that day.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #113  
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anyone order new idler pulleys when doing this to replace the other two?

wanted to replace everything while doing this
i got dayco part numbers
89156
89150

both belts
both ilder pulley
+remove
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #114  
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no body has had to replace a idler pulley? or done it as a PM? they seem cheap enough to do it with the belts, especially since some have stated wobble in the bearing
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Old Jun 23, 2012 | 11:40 PM
  #115  
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anybody cross reference these Nissan OEM parts to aftermarket parts?

ALT: 11925-AL500
AC: 11925-AG300
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 08:03 PM
  #116  
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Just did this using using the Z1 kit and it was pretty straight forward. The engine seems to turn a bit smoother and quieter with out the idle pulley as well.
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #117  
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so i already have a ur underdrive crank pulley with this belt gates K060445 is 20mm x 1148mm...my question is when i remove the idler pulley whats gonna be my new belt size considering 1in comes off the belt? and 1in=25.4mm so guessing 20mm X 1123.4mm...is is this belt K060445?

Last edited by johndoesdamage; Aug 25, 2012 at 08:42 AM. Reason: confirmed belt size
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 10:27 AM
  #118  
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Add it to my to do list for the winter
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:02 AM
  #119  
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So whats the word on the 2-17mm, do we need them? I will search through the service manual
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:29 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by mw9
So whats the word on the 2-17mm, do we need them? I will search through the service manual


I put them back in, I didnt want to lose them if I had to swap back for some reason, or if they are needed for FI brackets in the future.

Edit: Listen to terrasmak for god's sake, what the heck do I know!

Last edited by myork; Oct 19, 2012 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Bad advice
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