I actually came to this thread hoping for this question to be answered. I have the service repair manual for a 2007 350z, and it indeed says that there is only 1 belt for the HR. I'm pretty confident in saying that the HR only has 1 belt now that I see that Nissan also told you the same thing. I took a look for myself the other day, looks like 1 belt. I'll know more tomorrow when I actually replace it.

 

Has anyone actually done this to an HR?

I guess I have only 1 other question in my head before I tackle this job...

I'd like to be able to do everything from underneath the car, this DIY looks really easy. Neither the owner's manual or service repair manual tell you how to actually tackle this job, it just tells you how to check the belt for wear.

I did read that the tension is adjusted by the auto tensioner... and I have no idea how that works.

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

I did this and the car seems extremely heavy, sluggish and slow. Any ideas as to what that could be?

 

Anyone replaced their Serpentine belt on their HR yet? Just noticed mine was tearing up today and needs to be replaced.

 

read the service manual part for the drive belts..the same thing happened to me.. I ordered the whole thing from Nissan (bracket, pulley and bolt). Cost me $110.. I will be replacing it when i get the part...For some reason,the tension adjusting bolt is not sturdy..

NOTE:

if you have a 2006.5 , you have a different belt part number.

Nissan P/N for ALT/PS -11720-4P10A not the 11720-4P102

 

Hey guys, I did my belts a few months ago and now I get screetching sound when I first start the car. I think the belts may have stretched and now they're too loose. I think it the alternator that's causing the sound because the voltage gauge shows 12V when the car starts and the sound appears and once it stops, it goes up to 14V+.

Anyways, I was looking for a semi accurate way of measuring belt tension. I came across Gates Krikit tension tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Krikit-V...=pd_sim_auto_2

A friend of mine used this tool on his old 944 when we did the timing belt and it worked fairly well. Just passing along the info.

 

So how do those tools work? It seems they measure the level of tension, but how does that convert to the level of deflection?

 

Nevermind, nissan also lists the tension specs.

 

I think that part is only affect 2006 MT since its a Rev-Up engine. 2006 AT belts are same as 2003-2005 belts.

 

Thanks for saving me about $100 at the dealer!! Extremely easy and make sure you tighten those belts up pretty firmly or your car will squeel like a pig, ask me how I know...

 

did this the other day and the Alternator belt was very easy, BUT my A/C belt was a pain in the ***!! The adjuster bolt on the A/C belt won't move the idler pulley up or down, I have to push it up from under the car, then tighten the idler pulley lock nut so that it wont go down..

Is the adjuster bolt suppose to hold the A/C idler pulley in place instead of free falling?

 

I have a 2006 350z with 54000 miles on it. I knew my belts were bad but didn't want to pay to have them done. I knew somebody would have something like this self help topic. Once I saw it I was able to do it myself with no issues. Thanks for the great displays and information and keep it up for other maint issues so we can do them.

 

I picked up my belts today and ordered a belt tension gauge from Amazon. Will be replacing them next weekend and will post pics on using the tension gauge.

 

Very true. It's better to bend, scratch or otherwise mar your frame rails than to risk a slip. I still remember a friend of mine who insisted on putting a wood block on the jack, to avoid marring the frame rail. When doing some routine maintenance, we jacked up the car with the wood, and just as I was about to set up the stand, the wood shifted and the jack slammed into the driver side floor pan. Caused a 5 inch dent into the poor floor pan.

 

I use the twist method. Try to twist the belt over itself. If it twists past the vertical point, it's too loose. After you swap belts a few times you'll start to get the "feel", as to the appropriate tightness.

 

Thanks for this DYI write up! It made the job straight forward and easy.
Kudos.
Brian

 

Awesome write-up!

I used RHINO RAMPS(Canadian Tire for $80):


I bought this Alt./P.S. belt(#25060465 ):



I bought this A/C belt(#25040372):



Both Micro-V(Gates) belts from NAPA for $38!(usually $80 but I get a discount)


The whole procedure took 15 minutes at most.

1. Drive car onto rhino ramps.
2. Remove belly cover. 14 bolts (10mm) and a plastic lock tab.
3. Loosen idler pulley bolts (14mm).
4. Loosen adjuster bolts (12mm).
5. Remove belts & replace new (install A/C belt 1st).
6. Do the opposite from step 4-1.


In the end, spending $38 & 15 minutes of work replaced my belts that have never been changed since it came from the FACTORY 6 years & 67,000KM ago! The old belts made quite the run!

 

Awesome DIY ... ordered the belts off of Rockauto.com... I think with shipping it was 30 bucks or so... and like everyone says only thing that sucks is removing the plastic cover under the engine...

 

Fantastic write up!
Just ordered both belts and will be doing this along with the brakes before fall.

Thanks!

 

good diy. got this done a month ago. took like 15 mins