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DIY Replacing your belts. Very Easy

Old 11-01-2011, 08:00 PM
  #121  
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:01 PM
  #122  
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Just bought a used 04 with 115 k. the belts are..."worn"

using this to help me do them tomorrow. thanks for it!
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:12 PM
  #123  
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Great write up. Just did this today, should have been a short job but it turns out the previous owner had under drive pulleys. Took four trips to the auto parts store to get the right belt.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:52 PM
  #124  
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had to change mine around 85k miles (belt started cracking but probably could have gone on for quite a few more miles before it would have actually snapped).

went back twice to re adjust the tension before i got it right
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:02 PM
  #125  
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snapped my ac belt tonight will be using this !
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:05 PM
  #126  
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my ac belt is WRECKED! Replacing with OEM on monday.

Last edited by 805350z; 03-12-2012 at 01:07 PM. Reason: update: Hardest part was opening the beer. Belts replaced, dealer cost 52 for both.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:52 PM
  #127  
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WOW!!! I didn't know it was gonna be that easy. Thanks to this DIY.
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:43 PM
  #128  
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I was having issues with good year gatorback belt and even after adding tension it would squeal. I ordered OEM belts for $37 shipped and found out that oem belts use FELT on the ribs to help keep it quiet compared to other belts available after market. I also picked up a BT3373 belt tension gauge.

I installed the OEM belts and did not have the gauge and chose what I thought was tight and to the point where no squealing occurred. I just got the tension gauge and checked my tension and I was off. The actual tension that is needed is really high compared to what I thought was around 20lbs and measuring deflection using a ruler and a hammer.

I would recommend investing in a belt gauge of some sort to check your tension for sure and not just add tension till there is no squealing. I have both tension and deflection in spec now. I am trying to figure out a way to rent my gauge out for the community.

West Covina Nissan Ebay Link Belt Set

BEFORE ADJUSTMENT

AC Belt: 65lbs / 289 newtons
PS / ALT Belt: 85 lbs / 378 newtons

After Adjustment


AC Belt: 105-110 lbs / 475 newtons
PS / ALT Belt: 180 lbs / 800 newtons

Name:  belts1.jpg
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Last edited by faiz23; 05-20-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:33 PM
  #129  
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GREAT write up, thanks very much!
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:20 AM
  #130  
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How/where did you get the tensioner from?

Also, am i reading correctly, that the tension you now show is far higher than the specs for it?
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:05 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by RaaW350z View Post
WOW!!! I didn't know it was gonna be that easy. Thanks to this DIY.
i couldnt have said it better myself. i did mine tonight in less than an hour (with the undertray already off). this thread helped a lot! thanks!
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:01 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by F2CMaDMaXX View Post
How/where did you get the tensioner from?

Also, am i reading correctly, that the tension you now show is far higher than the specs for it?
I got the belt tension guage from ebay on an auction. I set the tension in between used belt adjustment and new belt. Since my belt was only 1 week old when I installed it and slightly stretched during the week. I will recheck the tension again and see how it settled and then adjust if it need to. Remember don't add to much tension and thrash all your bearing or be too loose and slipping / squealing. STICK WITH OEM BELTS
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:32 PM
  #133  
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HAD A PROBLEM...had to leave one bad belt on.

Went to Nissan to order my belts A1920-AL510 (Compression) and 11720-4P102 (Fan & Alt). The compression belt was special order since it was not in stock.

The smaller of the 2 belts, the compression belt, was a little bit too small. I even fully removed the idler pulley to make room. Still a no-go.

*Side note...removed idler pulley for the bigger belt and it fit and worked fine.

Should I try to swap out the compression belt for another one? I was thinking not everything manufactured is good. Or is there another way to make it work?

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Old 06-22-2012, 12:32 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by JoBAGZ View Post
HAD A PROBLEM...had to leave one bad belt on.

Went to Nissan to order my belts A1920-AL510 (Compression) and 11720-4P102 (Fan & Alt). The compression belt was special order since it was not in stock.

The smaller of the 2 belts, the compression belt, was a little bit too small. I even fully removed the idler pulley to make room. Still a no-go.

*Side note...removed idler pulley for the bigger belt and it fit and worked fine.

Should I try to swap out the compression belt for another one? I was thinking not everything manufactured is good. Or is there another way to make it work?

If I am not mistaken the correct Nissan part number for the OEM belt is 11920-AG900 - so I think that may be your problem.
I just did mine last week and that is the belt I used with no issues.
Did you loosen the idler pulley to its lowest setting and then try to slide the belt over it?
That's how I did it, I worked the belt over the crank and A/C pullies first and then slid the belt over the idler - it is tight but it will work.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:26 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by myork View Post
If I am not mistaken the correct Nissan part number for the OEM belt is 11920-AG900 - so I think that may be your problem.
I just did mine last week and that is the belt I used with no issues.
Did you loosen the idler pulley to its lowest setting and then try to slide the belt over it?
That's how I did it, I worked the belt over the crank and A/C pullies first and then slid the belt over the idler - it is tight but it will work.
I just requested it by the belt names and that's what they gave me. I'll tell them to get me that part number. Thanks
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:17 PM
  #136  
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Just finished this....I had to double and triple check everything because it seemed too easy. The bolts on the idler pulley also wasnt as tight as i had thought for some reason...

Got the belts from my local Oreilly store...Alternator Gates Belt#K060465 for 20 bucks the other is Master Pro #K040372 for 15 bucks. Easiest install I've ever done to my Z..

Last edited by BlueDragonZ; 07-09-2012 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:04 AM
  #137  
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My first post here... Thanks for the excellent write up!
I now know how to change the belts on my Renault Vel Satis
I tried before, but did not know I had to undo the pulley bolt itself, I thought it was just a bajonet fitting and only the tensioner bolt needed to be removed.... You guessed it, no movement what so ever!

As my car shares the engine with the fabulous 350Z... I will be here more often concerning all engine matters For the rest... I don't think there is anything similar!

F.y.i: I do drive something more sportive as well, My Lotus Elan!
http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/vi...16507&start=40

Cheers all
HJ2

Last edited by HJ2; 03-10-2013 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:55 AM
  #138  
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Anyone know the torque for the tensioner bolt, 2007? Mine broke....in traffic....great friday afternoon! Thanks for your help, anyone.

Last edited by CubanDrifter; 04-14-2013 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:37 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by CubanDrifter View Post
Anyone know the torque for the tensioner bolt, 2007? Mine broke....in traffic....great friday afternoon! Thanks for your help, anyone.
According to my FSM for an '06, torque specs are 24-28 ft/lbs.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:02 PM
  #140  
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Different setup, but thank you for looking. I'll give in and buy the FSM for my year. Thanks again.
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