If your gears do not line up or bite in the center following assembly (see attachment), DO NOT install the diff. Take it somewhere professional where they could measure it out with a backlash gauge and adjust it back into spec.

Without changing pinion gear (by upgrading to 3.9 or 4.0 gears for example), risk of getting your gear alignment off is significantly lessened. Shims are what is used to space the pinion gear depth correctly so it bites the center of the ring gear. This is what allows for minimal (ideal) backlash between the gears.

"Checking the Pattern"
http://www.differentials.com/install.html

Backlash - definition
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_(engineering)

 

Not quite sure what you mean. There are a set of solid differential bushings that replace the rubber ones in the front end of the differential. You essentially burn them out and replace with the solid mounts.
I also have solid motor mounts if that is what you are referring to?
The rear of the differential is already hard mounted into the rear subframe. No soft bushings back there anyway.

 

You can replace the entire rear bushing as well, but its a b!tch to get out.

https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...d-img_1506.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBFZ33.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBRZ33.jpg

 

Didn't know that. Sweet.

 

what's the recommended torque for the bolts holding the diff cover on?

 

Not 100% sure but I think its 50ft/lbs. Not a high pressure area so it may not even be that high. I would have to check the service manual to verify.

 

This is what I was talking about Medic, theres the front Diff bushings and the rear subframe shown here. When you go to buy them they give you the option of buying front only, or both.

 

Anyone know if the differential rear side bushing is also made of rubber? And the best way to remove it, if its not rubber? Please post up.

 

The write up on the install was great. I just did the install myself at work the other day. Also installed solid diff mounts. All of the oem bushings are rubber. They sucked to get out. Does anyone know what the diff is set to low mid high ??

 

What about the mounting bolts? Or, probably a better question, do you have a source that I can download the service manual from?

 

I have an '03 Base model. I should not have to replace the axle stubs, but i'm wondering how they assemble into the differential casing...

In the write up we see the diff assembly out of the car with the side oil seals installed, and in the next shot the assembly is installed on the car with the stubs on it.

Do the axle stubs simply slide into the diff? Is the axle stub installation done before the assembly is remounted into the car or after? Great write up, Thanks!

 

Just pay attention when disassembling and label your parts Left & Right.
The Touring model I have has one axle stub slightly longer than the other. In addition, only 1 axle stub has a snap/locking ring, the other does not. The snap or locking ring is on the inside of the actual lsd. If you are not careful you could risk damaging the snap/locking rings if you put the wrong axle stub in the wrong side.

 

Looking good!

 

Anyone with a base model have any input on axle stub removal/installation? I'm thinking that the touring model has the viscous type, which is different from mine. I'm basically trying to know as much as possible before deciding to undertake this project myself or have the work done by a pro. Thanks.

 

Base Model Axle removal = get an extension and a rubber mallet, apply force as needed. Don't be afraid to give them a good WHACK, they're strong pieces.

Base Model Nismo Axle install = Nismo Axles are identical in length and design, doesn't matter which one goes in which side. Go find that rubber mallet again and hammer them into each side.

 

The axle stubs are extremely easy to remove using a breaker bar. pops right out with minimal effort. You will need the rubber mallet to get the axle back in.

OK now I have a question
I just installed my Nismo LSD which I bought from a friend. I've set the engagement to the lowest setting by turning the 19mm adjustment bolt all the way to the left. although the engagement is much smoother I still get binding on really tight turns.

Has anyone run this LSD for a while and does the binding ever completely go away?

I believe part of my issue may be related to the break in. I got the thing used and I don't know if the break in was done properly. I'm running Royal Purple gear oil.

 

I was thinking about draining the royal purple gear oil and then running the diff through a proper break in. is it worth my time or is this diff always going to bind a little?

 

Everywhere ive read about clutch type lsd's is they will ALWAYS bind at low speeds.

 

yes they will always bind at low speeds because the outside wheel in a turn is moving the same speed not faster than opposite side

 

Did this install myself last night with SPL and Whiteline bushings and the 4.08 Gears. Hands down single best mods done to the car yet. Holy crap this thing is loud, but after break in it has quieted down a tad, and im sure once the Motul is in it wont bother me at all.

Coming from a base model with no LSD, this is a extreme difference. So much traction now.