Nismo Diff Home Install + pics
#41
If your gears do not line up or bite in the center following assembly (see attachment), DO NOT install the diff. Take it somewhere professional where they could measure it out with a backlash gauge and adjust it back into spec.
Without changing pinion gear (by upgrading to 3.9 or 4.0 gears for example), risk of getting your gear alignment off is significantly lessened. Shims are what is used to space the pinion gear depth correctly so it bites the center of the ring gear. This is what allows for minimal (ideal) backlash between the gears.
"Checking the Pattern"
http://www.differentials.com/install.html
Backlash - definition
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_(engineering)
Without changing pinion gear (by upgrading to 3.9 or 4.0 gears for example), risk of getting your gear alignment off is significantly lessened. Shims are what is used to space the pinion gear depth correctly so it bites the center of the ring gear. This is what allows for minimal (ideal) backlash between the gears.
"Checking the Pattern"
http://www.differentials.com/install.html
Backlash - definition
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_(engineering)
Last edited by Citrus; 02-20-2009 at 11:48 AM.
#42
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Not quite sure what you mean. There are a set of solid differential bushings that replace the rubber ones in the front end of the differential. You essentially burn them out and replace with the solid mounts.
I also have solid motor mounts if that is what you are referring to?
The rear of the differential is already hard mounted into the rear subframe. No soft bushings back there anyway.
I also have solid motor mounts if that is what you are referring to?
The rear of the differential is already hard mounted into the rear subframe. No soft bushings back there anyway.
#43
You can replace the entire rear bushing as well, but its a b!tch to get out.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...d-img_1506.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBFZ33.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBRZ33.jpg
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...d-img_1506.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBFZ33.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBRZ33.jpg
Last edited by Citrus; 02-20-2009 at 10:34 PM.
#47
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You can replace the entire rear bushing as well, but its a b!tch to get out.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...d-img_1506.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBFZ33.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBRZ33.jpg
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...d-img_1506.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBFZ33.jpg
http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/...SPLSDBRZ33.jpg
#49
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The write up on the install was great. I just did the install myself at work the other day. Also installed solid diff mounts. All of the oem bushings are rubber. They sucked to get out. Does anyone know what the diff is set to low mid high ??
#50
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What about the mounting bolts? Or, probably a better question, do you have a source that I can download the service manual from?
#51
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I need just a little clarification...
I have an '03 Base model. I should not have to replace the axle stubs, but i'm wondering how they assemble into the differential casing...
In the write up we see the diff assembly out of the car with the side oil seals installed, and in the next shot the assembly is installed on the car with the stubs on it.
Do the axle stubs simply slide into the diff? Is the axle stub installation done before the assembly is remounted into the car or after? Great write up, Thanks!
In the write up we see the diff assembly out of the car with the side oil seals installed, and in the next shot the assembly is installed on the car with the stubs on it.
Do the axle stubs simply slide into the diff? Is the axle stub installation done before the assembly is remounted into the car or after? Great write up, Thanks!
#52
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Just pay attention when disassembling and label your parts Left & Right.
The Touring model I have has one axle stub slightly longer than the other. In addition, only 1 axle stub has a snap/locking ring, the other does not. The snap or locking ring is on the inside of the actual lsd. If you are not careful you could risk damaging the snap/locking rings if you put the wrong axle stub in the wrong side.
The Touring model I have has one axle stub slightly longer than the other. In addition, only 1 axle stub has a snap/locking ring, the other does not. The snap or locking ring is on the inside of the actual lsd. If you are not careful you could risk damaging the snap/locking rings if you put the wrong axle stub in the wrong side.
#54
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Just pay attention when disassembling and label your parts Left & Right.
The Touring model I have has one axle stub slightly longer than the other. In addition, only 1 axle stub has a snap/locking ring, the other does not. The snap or locking ring is on the inside of the actual lsd. If you are not careful you could risk damaging the snap/locking rings if you put the wrong axle stub in the wrong side.
The Touring model I have has one axle stub slightly longer than the other. In addition, only 1 axle stub has a snap/locking ring, the other does not. The snap or locking ring is on the inside of the actual lsd. If you are not careful you could risk damaging the snap/locking rings if you put the wrong axle stub in the wrong side.
#55
Base Model Axle removal = get an extension and a rubber mallet, apply force as needed. Don't be afraid to give them a good WHACK, they're strong pieces.
Base Model Nismo Axle install = Nismo Axles are identical in length and design, doesn't matter which one goes in which side. Go find that rubber mallet again and hammer them into each side.
Base Model Nismo Axle install = Nismo Axles are identical in length and design, doesn't matter which one goes in which side. Go find that rubber mallet again and hammer them into each side.
#56
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The axle stubs are extremely easy to remove using a breaker bar. pops right out with minimal effort. You will need the rubber mallet to get the axle back in.
OK now I have a question
I just installed my Nismo LSD which I bought from a friend. I've set the engagement to the lowest setting by turning the 19mm adjustment bolt all the way to the left. although the engagement is much smoother I still get binding on really tight turns.
Has anyone run this LSD for a while and does the binding ever completely go away?
I believe part of my issue may be related to the break in. I got the thing used and I don't know if the break in was done properly. I'm running Royal Purple gear oil.
OK now I have a question
I just installed my Nismo LSD which I bought from a friend. I've set the engagement to the lowest setting by turning the 19mm adjustment bolt all the way to the left. although the engagement is much smoother I still get binding on really tight turns.
Has anyone run this LSD for a while and does the binding ever completely go away?
I believe part of my issue may be related to the break in. I got the thing used and I don't know if the break in was done properly. I'm running Royal Purple gear oil.
#60
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Did this install myself last night with SPL and Whiteline bushings and the 4.08 Gears. Hands down single best mods done to the car yet. Holy crap this thing is loud, but after break in it has quieted down a tad, and im sure once the Motul is in it wont bother me at all.
Coming from a base model with no LSD, this is a extreme difference. So much traction now.
Coming from a base model with no LSD, this is a extreme difference. So much traction now.