try this out for size on some decent penetrating oil.

Normally ~$20 for one normal can from amazon, i think you'll agree this offer is very good:

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

 

Just did this today, no issues at all the nut came off with an impact gun, and greased everything up and bye bye clicking sound. Very nice not to hear that annoying sound.

 

Why would you want your car to sound raggedy?

 

My rear axle just started to do this as well.. I greased them up and the noise went right away. But, a week went by. And its back. Tomorrow im getting on it. I hate the noise it makes. Especially in public "CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK click click..........click...........................click........ ..............................click"

lmao

 

+1

 

Did you guys all replace the recommended hardware or just reuse the old bolts attached to the differential?

I'm having a hard time finding the 32mm axle impact socket over here in Canada. Where did you guys get yours from? Probably going to order off Fleabay.

 

Re-used mine. Would change them if I took them out a second time, they are tight as ***** from the factory.

I'd say any auto parts store should have them, but maybe not in your area.

 

Yeah i'm sure they do. It's a pain in the *** getting around when you don't have much time so I just ordered off Fleabay. Was about $22ish shipped.

Did you just leave it in gear and loosen them with a torque wrench or impact gun on that too?

 

I'm going to do this tomorrow.. my only piece of confusion is that OP states to put the wheel back on, get it on the ground and loosen the nut? How is that possible? Remove the centercap on the wheel?

 

I didn't have my stock wheels but if I removed the centercap of my F14's, it looks like the 32mm axle socket would've fit. I just left the car jacked up on the side I was working on, in gear with the handbrake on since I was using an impact gun. Nut came off with literally 2s of hammering.

Just did this and the one suggestion I have is that if you're not removing the axle completely (I didn't once I saw the clearance from just pushing the axle back), use a two stage process:

1) Use a knife to lay the grease in the correct spot by putting grease on the tip of the knife only. It makes sense when you look at the pic of where you're supposed to be putting the grease if you took the axle off completely.
2) Use a Q-tip after you're done laying a lot of the grease using the knife to grease the hub as well where the axle makes contact with the hub.

EDIT: Thanks OP and others who contributed.

 

From the TSB picture, it looks like you don't put any on the splines, just on the non-splined portion and all over the larger 'face' of the axle end.

 

Yeah the click we hear is from the mating face of the CV against the hub. Doesn't hurt to grease the splines lightly though, prevents rust and makes future services much more simple.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

im installing extended wheel studs and changing my rotors. does the axle come out through the back of the hub? should i do this now that i have rotors off or should i wait till clicking comes back? In the pics i dont think i have to remove rotor so it probably has nothing to do with axle

 

If you are doing all that, you might as well do it. They don't have anything to do with each other, but if you're pulling everything off, it might be easier.

 

im going to try this as my axles are also clicking. Reminds me of my old 335i with squeaky brakes that wouldn't go away boy that was embracing lol.

 

Yeah it's too easy of a fix to not do it, that clicking was driving me insane and it took me about an hour to pull the axle out, clean it, lube it properly and re-install with me taking my time. Much nicer with it gone now and it won't come back.

 

And for taking the axle out, did you just pull it from the inside having removed the bolts for the diff side?

 

Yep. It was kind of a pain going around the say bar linkage and what not but it just comes out.

 

So, nothing else to undo or pull off?