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Clicking Noise from Rear Axle,

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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 07:48 AM
  #41  
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Can I re grease the axle withouht using new centor lock bolts and washers?
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #42  
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I recently installed my DSS Pro Axles (1200HP rated) and took my Z to the track and ran it with 27x10.5x15 M/T ET streets. After I came back home I started hear a clicking noise from the rear hear is a Pic just cuz my bolt dosent have a cotter pin on it it's got only bent edges into the hole is there something wrong with that?

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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 11:01 AM
  #43  
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You/they probably didn't lube the axle before installing them in the car - that's the click problem.

Personally, I'd feel better having the retainer and cotter pin installed instead of the crimp shown in the picture.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 03:46 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
You/they probably didn't lube the axle before installing them in the car - that's the click problem.

Personally, I'd feel better having the retainer and cotter pin installed instead of the crimp shown in the picture.
I would also feel better about having a cotter pin. I'm thinking of taking it back to someone else and just showing them the pictures shown on here on how i want the axles lubricated and torqued at what it says on here.
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #45  
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ugh...if it's not one thing it's another....

I beat on my car frequently...

with that said I'm now at 30,000 miles...

after a night of driving...the next day I proceed to go to the store...

and low and behold a faint clicking, and when I give it gas it becomes a grind metal on metal...

unsure of what it is I'm in this thread...
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 04:31 AM
  #46  
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Thanks for the DIY and other comments. I did this yesterday. It took me forever, but that's nothing new.


Last edited by trentor; Jun 13, 2011 at 04:45 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #47  
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You do not have to remove the whole axle to do this fix.

Remove the axle nut. Then from underneath you can pull carefully on the rubber boot (behind the rotor) and the axle will slide inboard, allowing access to the splined part. Get a throw away brush and work the grease in. It's a bit tight but very do-able.

Last edited by Derek Dee; Jun 13, 2011 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Derek Dee
You do not have to remove the whole axle to do this fix.

Remove the axle nut. Then from underneath you can pull carefully on the rubber boot (behind the rotor) and the axle will slide inboard, allowing access to the splined part. Get a throw away brush and work the grease in. It's a bit tight but very do-able.
+1 Just did it today without removing the axle. I've had the axle clicking for a while and finally decided to do it today. BTW, that cotter pin is pretty much useless. It wont stop the nut from loosening, but I guess it will stop the nut from completely coming off.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 07:03 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Derek Dee
You do not have to remove the whole axle to do this fix.

Remove the axle nut. Then from underneath you can pull carefully on the rubber boot (behind the rotor) and the axle will slide inboard, allowing access to the splined part. Get a throw away brush and work the grease in. It's a bit tight but very do-able.

I call BULL (no disrespect). I had undone my axle from the pumpkin and undone the hub bolt and could not get my axle out. I did this without looking at the TSB yesterday.

At the time I though the axle was connected to the Spindle so I wasnt going to hammer it for fear of breaking it. Mine has gone on for a while about a month and its a bad metal on metal grind now. I don't think it will easily slide out in similar cases.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rich2342
I call BULL (no disrespect). I had undone my axle from the pumpkin and undone the hub bolt and could not get my axle out. I did this without looking at the TSB yesterday.

At the time I though the axle was connected to the Spindle so I wasnt going to hammer it for fear of breaking it. Mine has gone on for a while about a month and its a bad metal on metal grind now. I don't think it will easily slide out in similar cases.
This method is only to apply grease on the spindle of the axle without removing the complete axle. Remove the axle nut and push the axle in and you should have enough room to get some grease at the base of the spindle. I did it with no problems.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 04:10 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by XxKwestxX
This method is only to apply grease on the spindle of the axle without removing the complete axle. Remove the axle nut and push the axle in and you should have enough room to get some grease at the base of the spindle. I did it with no problems.

This can be done without removing the bolts from the pumpkin? How much play is there to tap the axle out??
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rich2342
This can be done without removing the bolts from the pumpkin? How much play is there to tap the axle out??
Yes it can be done. The end of the axle will push in about half way through the hub. The clearance is kinda tight but I was able to grease the spindle base with an acid brush. Or you can use a tongue depressor or popsicle stick. Once you get the axle nut off, push the axle in and you will be able to see the clearance I'm talking about.
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 05:05 AM
  #53  
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^ I did it but I ended up taking both sides of the axle apart and tapping it out.. It was very hard to get the grease in there.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 06:31 AM
  #54  
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hate to be a nub about this but is it bad to leave it clicking? lol
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by potato
hate to be a nub about this but is it bad to leave it clicking? lol
Definitely. The clicking is because of metal to metal contact. The grease lubricates the splines. If you don't fix it, you'll end up replacing the axle and/or hub at some point.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #56  
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how much does a fix like this usually cost?
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by rich2342
I call BULL (no disrespect). I had undone my axle from the pumpkin and undone the hub bolt and could not get my axle out. I did this without looking at the TSB yesterday.

At the time I though the axle was connected to the Spindle so I wasnt going to hammer it for fear of breaking it. Mine has gone on for a while about a month and its a bad metal on metal grind now. I don't think it will easily slide out in similar cases.

I can imagine it can get stuck. I started w the passenger side and removed the entire axle from the car. I couldn't brake a few of the nuts on the driver side axle to pumpkin connection. So I was playing around and was easily able to slide the terminal end of the axle inboard enough to reach said area. I would say there was an inch or two of play to work through.
I'll gladly post pics as I want to re-grease w some waterproof marine stuff I have......
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #58  
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Does anyone know if it has to be a specific grease that is being applied to the axle. Someone told me it has to be Mylokote M77 but I haven't been able to verify it. Please help!
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #59  
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so my car clicks just once every time i back up after first starting the car. then i dont notice or hear anything the rest of the day. also ive never heard it click when going forward. is this axle click im hearing or something else? anyone with the exact issue?
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by laxboylee82
Does anyone know if it has to be a specific grease that is being applied to the axle. Someone told me it has to be Mylokote M77 but I haven't been able to verify it. Please help!
I used a waterproof marine grease.

Originally Posted by J 0 K 3 R
so my car clicks just once every time i back up after first starting the car. then i dont notice or hear anything the rest of the day. also ive never heard it click when going forward. is this axle click im hearing or something else? anyone with the exact issue?
Classic axle click symptoms.
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