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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:16 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Derek Dee


Classic axle click symptoms.
noooooo!! so its gonna get worse then huh? should i drive it a few thousand more miles because its not that bad? im under warranty for 3 more years.
and is it hurting my acceleration now? is it slipping? or only slips when i hear clix. advice needed. i do not like having problems with a 20k car i bought 2 months ago.
oh yeah im in an 06 6mt base.

Last edited by J 0 K 3 R; Aug 28, 2011 at 09:19 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #62  
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this happened to 2006-2007 too!!! not only limited to 2003-2005. I did my and oh well, i had to call somebody over to help....
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #63  
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..........

Last edited by JaE35z; Sep 11, 2011 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #64  
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I'm going to have to fix this issue soon..damn...bringing this thread back to life
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 02:57 PM
  #65  
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I was lucky to avoid this problem until last year. One side started it then after I fixed it the other side started. I think both were brought on by earlier work done on the rear when we pulled both half shafts. Should have done them then before putting it back together.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #66  
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so all there is to this are loose nuts? im so annoyed by these clicks im gonna give it a shot next weekend
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #67  
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Nope. There is a thin metal shield at the end of the spline that mates up against the inner side of the hub/bearing. The click you hear is the thin metal popping as it flexes. The grease apparently silences the pop. Some people have reported that tightening the nuts helped, but that's not true in all cases and it eventually returned in some cases.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #68  
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i see i got some valvoline grease im gonna give that a try
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #69  
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I had the same issue before, I fixed one side using the grease method and tightened the nut, it actually did come somewhat loose, pretty much hand tight loose. So I disassembled, greased, tightened and reassembled. 15k miles and counting so far fingers crossed.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #70  
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i have an 03 6mt and it clicked only on rough starts then slowly it clicks every time i start off. Im not going to try and fix it my self. does any one know were i can take down here in LA that wont charge me to much to fix this issue. it is probably the most annoying noise and drives me nuts every time i drive my car
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 10:30 AM
  #71  
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I got mine tightened, and I'm still hearing the clicking noise (although not as much)...
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #72  
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Tightening only works up to a point. Eventually the click will return and you'll have to resort to the grease fix.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 02:21 PM
  #73  
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This thread was great. I have been putting this off for no other reason than I am lazy for a while now. The clicking has been getting worse recently, likely because Ive started autoXing, so I decided to get this done. When I pulled mine out there wasnt ANY grease. There was no old residue that me or my friend could identify. Greased it up, took it for a ride & no clicking.

BTW I went & got a 32MM socket & it turned out my friends 1 1/4" socket fit it even better. So I recommend a One & One quarter inche socket instead of Thirty Two Millimeter.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 03:55 PM
  #74  
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For all practical purposes, 32mm is 1¼". The difference is 0.0098" which is negligible.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #75  
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im taking it to the shop on Tuesday and the noise is getting worse day by day hopefully the grease can fix it right up
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 01:53 PM
  #76  
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I just did this today on my 06 g35, without removing the axle.
Here is how much space is available once you slide it inwards:
Attached Thumbnails Clicking Noise from Rear Axle,-imag0425.jpg  
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 01:11 AM
  #77  
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anyone noticed the clicking sounds worse when the weather is cold (under 10C)? During summer days, the sound is completely gone. However, when winter comes, it starts creeping back...
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #78  
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Is it better to have the wheel on the ground when using a breaker bar on the 32mm hub nut? I noticed the stock 18s have the center cap that can be removed. IS this safe to do:

1) Remove wheel
2) Remove cotter pin
3) Put wheel back on with lugs
4) Lower car to floor
5) Apply brakes
6) Remove 32mm hub nut with wheel on and car on ground?

Or is this not possible?

If not, is it okay if only one side of the car is jacked up, or do both sides of the rear have to be jacked up to remove it safely without breaking anything?
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #79  
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Find somebody with a compressor and an impact wrench. If you read back a page or two, they explain that it comes of easily doing this and you don't have to worry about putting the wheel back on to remove the nut. If it does spin a little, I would think the emergency brake should hold it still when applied.
Gonna try mine soon.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:07 PM
  #80  
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Glad I saw this, my car is starting to make this noise quite a bit, the cold weather has made it much more noticable. Didn't start til after Nissan replaced one of the wheel hubs under warranty, but i'll just fix it myself if this is what it is. Too much hassle to bring it back there and argue about it.
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