DIY - Solid diff bushing install - No subframe drop method, no c clamp either!
#202
Registered User
UPDATE: I've ordered a new diff stud and nut just incase the old one has gone kaput. With the car in first just by rolling it back and forth by hand you can see the diff move up and down creating the popping sound. Thankfully, a guy I know is going to help out when the parts come in; so it should be all sorted in the next week or so. I'm confident... ish. Thankfully it's not my DD so it's not a huge inconvenience. I'll update when we try to solve it.
#205
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I notice that Z and G with upgraded transmission mounts usually do not suffer from damaged differential subframe bushings. As a preventative and cost effective measure, I highly recommend replacing the stock transmission mounts. The stock transmission mounts allow inches of movements, twisting the differential subframe bushings significantly.
Also, another thing I have noticed is that the the bushings in the differential carriers never go bad. I personally wouldn't replace those ones just to save a little bit of time.
Also, another thing I have noticed is that the the bushings in the differential carriers never go bad. I personally wouldn't replace those ones just to save a little bit of time.
#206
Registered User
This install i have done in the last weekend and i must say between you and Z33Garage it made things less intimidating for me.
I was perplexed when bolting up the diff ear bushings as i forgot which way the thin steel washer went went that bolts to the underside of the car.
after watching some videos in slo-mo i realized is pointy side up as its a concave washer.
my bush press was pretty ghetto and made from 6mm thick right angle steel with threaded rod. i also ended up tapping the bushing in with a block of wood and mallet. bloody easy.
the real nightmare was perfectly centering the diff ear holes and the sway bar, as well as the rear muffler.
some black grease got the muffler on pretty well. never fails. now just need the 100kms before i re-torque.
brilliant write up, good work
I was perplexed when bolting up the diff ear bushings as i forgot which way the thin steel washer went went that bolts to the underside of the car.
after watching some videos in slo-mo i realized is pointy side up as its a concave washer.
my bush press was pretty ghetto and made from 6mm thick right angle steel with threaded rod. i also ended up tapping the bushing in with a block of wood and mallet. bloody easy.
the real nightmare was perfectly centering the diff ear holes and the sway bar, as well as the rear muffler.
some black grease got the muffler on pretty well. never fails. now just need the 100kms before i re-torque.
brilliant write up, good work
#207
Registered User
Btw the fsm says to replace the axle fasteners and the nuts on the driveshaft
How hard and fast is this rule?
Got quoted $250aud from Nissan for all 16 set of fasteners and subject to min purchase quantity.
How hard and fast is this rule?
Got quoted $250aud from Nissan for all 16 set of fasteners and subject to min purchase quantity.
#209
New Member
I need to do this. The black **** is starting to slowly ooze out
#210
Registered User
being able to do something like this yourself is inspiring and confidence building.
feel free to PM me for any questions as its all still fresh in my head.
The OP has heaps of good karma coming his way as it seemed intimidating at first but following this method breaks it down a bit and each person tends to do things a bit different or find a new way to do things.
i didnt use new fasteners in the end and the car hasnt exploded so reusing the original ones seems to be ok.
feel free to PM me for any questions as its all still fresh in my head.
The OP has heaps of good karma coming his way as it seemed intimidating at first but following this method breaks it down a bit and each person tends to do things a bit different or find a new way to do things.
i didnt use new fasteners in the end and the car hasnt exploded so reusing the original ones seems to be ok.
#211
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Mine has had a racing stripe for a long time, I got new whiteline bushings for the differential and subframe, I was checking to see if people put the skinny bushing on top as instructions say, or flip them around and have the larger bushings on top like it seems some people do.
I'll probably just follow the instructions...
I'll probably just follow the instructions...
#213
New Member
My sway bar is cake and you don't need to TQ everything in life
#214
Registered User
I thought I missed something on the sway bar. I still remember spending 10 minutes twisting and moving it around trying to get it out then spending 30-40 minutes trying to get it back in. I guess taking the end links off or the exhaust out of the way would help but that is just as frustrating...
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dboyzalter (09-08-2016)
#217
Registered User
I know some places are saying to flip the diff ear bushing and ditch the rubber washer but I have done as they advised. I know you mentioned something about flipping the diff ear bushes from fat bush on top to the thin on the bottom etc, some people have, but Whiteline say this adjusts the diff angle and can have other effects with NVH. I just did as they advised, thin on top and fat on bottom and its been all good.
for your driveshaft's I recall using a pair of ring spanners and use one for each side.
I locked one spanner against the body and pounded the hell out of the other spanner with my hand or dead blow.
to torque them I locked a ring spanner on one side against the body and used a combo of pivot/goose neck extension and a deep socket.
the sway bar was a pain but when unbolted took 20 seconds to remove but then took 10-20 minutes to put back in. so much stuff in the way.
for the main tail shaft I am pretty sure I used a batt powered rattle gun to loosen. I torqued them up by using the ring spanner against the body method.
like bjr mentioned I marked them off as I torqued them down.
for your driveshaft's I recall using a pair of ring spanners and use one for each side.
I locked one spanner against the body and pounded the hell out of the other spanner with my hand or dead blow.
to torque them I locked a ring spanner on one side against the body and used a combo of pivot/goose neck extension and a deep socket.
the sway bar was a pain but when unbolted took 20 seconds to remove but then took 10-20 minutes to put back in. so much stuff in the way.
for the main tail shaft I am pretty sure I used a batt powered rattle gun to loosen. I torqued them up by using the ring spanner against the body method.
like bjr mentioned I marked them off as I torqued them down.
Last edited by HR2007; 09-08-2016 at 08:23 PM.
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dboyzalter (09-09-2016)
#218
New Member
as far as using a torque wrench on the axle bolts... you can use a crow foot wrench or use a torque wench on a similar bolt out of the car and feel how tight they are with two wrenches and then just repeat on the car... exact torque value on these is not imperative (if it tighter then suggested torque) as long as they are tight... I always use lock-tite on drive shaft bolts/u-joints... that's the last thing you want coming off going down the road
also word to the wise... make sure you unplug your speed sensors... or you'll get a nice surprise when you drop the diff... few guys in my club forgot that part
#219
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
The only thing I forgot about was the breather hose, but I couldn't even get to it till I dropped the pumpkin a little bit..
I used an impact for removing almost everything, I was able to sneak it in most spots with a swivel.. Im planning to take off my subframe also to replace those bushings and hopefully make removing that center bushing more pleasant...
My worries are in those kidney looking braces, I just hope the bolts come out without any issues... (I broke one when I removed my W brace, it sucked)
I used an impact for removing almost everything, I was able to sneak it in most spots with a swivel.. Im planning to take off my subframe also to replace those bushings and hopefully make removing that center bushing more pleasant...
My worries are in those kidney looking braces, I just hope the bolts come out without any issues... (I broke one when I removed my W brace, it sucked)
#220
Registered User
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psgjpnhrmj.jpg
This the method I used to retorque the fasteners on the drive shaft
This the method I used to retorque the fasteners on the drive shaft