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DIY - Solid diff bushing install - No subframe drop method, no c clamp either!

Old 12-23-2012, 12:50 PM
  #161  
F2CMaDMaXX
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Yeah, it's not the most confidence inspiring of feelings.

Does yours look all squished then?
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:01 PM
  #162  
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On second look, I'd say they look pretty much like yours. It's hard to judge the thickness of a picture. What I did was loosen the rear bushing completely before loosening and then re-tightening the ear bushings. Not sure if it helped, but I'd like to think it helped re-align everything properly.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:12 PM
  #163  
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Please let me know if you're feeling any increased vibration in the lower RPMs when putting the engine under load, eg. moderate incline, holding the same speed about 2k rpm.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:12 PM
  #164  
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Just went on a test drive. Absolutely zero NVH increase. It MIGHT be due to my custom OEM poly trans. mount, which already added some noticeable NVH. I don't have any steep hills by me, but I tried various levels of throttle and acceleration, as well as releasing the clutch quickly to shock the drivetrain. Nothing felt out of sorts, no weird noises or vibrations. Although I've never experienced the SPL solid bushings, I recommend the Whiteline kit for people who don't want noticeable NVH but have a blown rear OEM bushing. It's already been shown that the Energy Suspension kit sucks and should not be considered.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:53 PM
  #165  
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Yeah, i'm just trying to rule out some NVH/boom i've got right now.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:19 AM
  #166  
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Default Gettin' my stiff on'



jus got my diff and subframe bushings done, waiting for an axle and shock mount bushings then im ready to put this back in and go drifting!

thanks for the writeup, it was very helpful jason'
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:14 PM
  #167  
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How are you guys installing these on the g sedans?
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:21 AM
  #168  
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Jason, I have an 07, and was on IPP's website, and they offer two kits. One with a driver tool, and one without. Your method outlined in post #12, seems to be similar to one that I used to do my LCA bushings, and was super easy. This driver tool wouldn't be used, so therefor I should just get this one?

http://www.importpartspro.com/splsdbiz33350z1.html

I also plan on using the dry ice and denatured alcohol method, as I don't want to bang up bushing.

edit;,, I think i may be answering my own question here... but just to be safe.. ha

edit2; just got the subframe one installed. Not the easiest thing in the world, but its in haha

Last edited by A-Town-Z; 06-25-2013 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 03-22-2014, 05:35 PM
  #169  
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Help!! Currently working on this diff bushing i cut the old one out and i have recieved the spl solid bushing its been in the freezer for like 24 hours and still wont go into the subframe! ive sanded the bore, used grease, wd-40, pb blaster and it just doesnt fit i dont have a dirver or press tool just trying to slip it in by hand and hammer it always ***** to one side or just gets stuck theyre nearly the same exact size even after ive frozen it. What should i do?? My cars been sittin in the air for a couple days now
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:10 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by BTehrani93 View Post
Help!! Currently working on this diff bushing i cut the old one out and i have recieved the spl solid bushing its been in the freezer for like 24 hours and still wont go into the subframe! ive sanded the bore, used grease, wd-40, pb blaster and it just doesnt fit i dont have a dirver or press tool just trying to slip it in by hand and hammer it always ***** to one side or just gets stuck theyre nearly the same exact size even after ive frozen it. What should i do?? My cars been sittin in the air for a couple days now
do what this thread says......press tool or bolt method.

-J
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:07 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
do what this thread says......press tool or bolt method.

-J
Yes.

Plus you must have nicked something when you cut it out. I was very careful and did. I used dry ice to shrink the bushing and it had enough clearance to put it in with no effort BUT I had to try three times because I had a small defect in two places in the bore where I had damaged it with a hack saw. I couldn't really see them the first time but feeling with my fingernail I found them.

You should not have sanded the bore in general and should have not used any lubricants. But unless you got very agressive it's not too late. Take a deep breath. Start over. Clean it with brake cleaner or something agressive like it. Get a good flashlight, a sensitive fingernail and some high grit sandpaper and look for whatever you damaged in the bore. Fix it a little bit at a time and re-check. Check the SPL bushing too.

If you are only going to freeze it in a freezer it won't slide in easy, so do get or build a press tool or get ACME thread and bolt setup with plates to push or pull it in. Only going to get it in without tools with dry ice. Do not hammer. Do not push any harder than you can with your hands if it does not go in straight. Pull it right back out and check for defects again! You ARE creating another groove in the bore if it goes in crooked.

I had trouble not only with this bushing but also last year in pressing in a bearing race in my rear end housing and both times it was due to a small defect/nick I created accidentally. I went to Autozone to rent the correct bearing tool and it still didn't help - had to sand the nick. After 2 hours it finally went in straight the first time.

Be patient, go slow, don't do any more damage! Good luck...
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:13 PM
  #172  
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Anyone know what the dimensions are on the bushings them selves, and how much press there is?
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:19 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Zjunky View Post
Anyone know what the dimensions are on the bushings them selves, and how much press there is?
I did not buy SPL, I got another brand bushing set a lot cheaper. I don't have anything in my notes about the ID of the bore in the frame.
My bushing was 2.925" at room temperature and had a very small shoulder on one end that was meant to be the leading edge going in. That measured 2.908"
After several hours in dry ice it ended up 2.918" OD and 2.900" lead in shoulder.
I was AMAZED that the ice shrunk it 0.007". I was expecting 0.002-0.003" at the most.
The bushing went in with NO effort and I had to hold it in place for 5 seconds for it to expand and hold it's own place in the frame. It was awesome!

Sorry I don't have the frame but compare my bushing to yours at least...
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:38 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by bjr View Post
I did not buy SPL, I got another brand bushing set a lot cheaper. I don't have anything in my notes about the ID of the bore in the frame.
My bushing was 2.925" at room temperature and had a very small shoulder on one end that was meant to be the leading edge going in. That measured 2.908"
After several hours in dry ice it ended up 2.918" OD and 2.900" lead in shoulder.
I was AMAZED that the ice shrunk it 0.007". I was expecting 0.002-0.003" at the most.
The bushing went in with NO effort and I had to hold it in place for 5 seconds for it to expand and hold it's own place in the frame. It was awesome!

Sorry I don't have the frame but compare my bushing to yours at least...
Thanks for the post it helps a lot. I'm planning to make a set. I didn't want to half to tear my car apart to take measurements and leave it set like that while I make them.

Ya the dry ice thing works very well. We use that method at work along with liquid nitrogen. You can have some fun with stuff! Lol
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:37 PM
  #175  
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Did mine today with some whitelines! I used the sawzall method, and I did put a slight cut mark in my subframe, but it will never matter. Took about 4 hours start to finish, on my back, with new gear oil. I also polished my exhaust since it was out.

The car feels a little better, or maybe like it did when new, but there is no NVH worth talking about, and no gear whine at all. The "clutch let out jiggles" are much better now and the whole driveline is less spongy feeling.

I wanted a permanent solution without sacrificing comfort.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:15 AM
  #176  
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Thanks for this writeup!

I was wondering, I discovered my bushing was bad when I lifted the back and checked if my rear wheel bearings made noise( which they did not). ( I have been experiencing a howling noise from the rear at speeds, which gets louder the faster I go). Would this bad bushing be responsible for this noise? ( apart from my tires probably)
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:14 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by go7roo7 View Post
Thanks for this writeup!

I was wondering, I discovered my bushing was bad when I lifted the back and checked if my rear wheel bearings made noise( which they did not). ( I have been experiencing a howling noise from the rear at speeds, which gets louder the faster I go). Would this bad bushing be responsible for this noise? ( apart from my tires probably)
I wouldn't think a bushing would cause the noise. Could be something going on in the dif.

Last edited by Zjunky; 04-19-2014 at 12:52 AM. Reason: Rewording
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:39 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by 350z-Helsinki View Post
The ones in the front of the differential I burned and cutted. I drilled holes into the rear bushing and used a saw to cut it. I didn't lower the subframe since I wasn't aware how easily it could be done.

I froze the bushing, but it was like 50 meters from the freezer to the place where I did the installation. I kept it on ice and cold sprayed it but there was no way to get it in there without sanding. I had to do quite a bit of that and then I managed to pound the damn thing in with a huge hammer. I put the bushing in from the front side of the car. I also used some lube WD-40. I know I should have used brake cleaner or something similar that evaporates. BTW I noticed that your bushing was black but mine was blue.

Yesterday I made the car hop intentionally a couple of times. I know that it's not good for the car, but I wanted to know if the bushing moves. As far as I can tell it was still in the same exact place.
More people will come out of the woodwork as the Z/G's get older and need suspension-drivetrain upgrades, so here's my story...

So, it's 2015 and I just tried installing a brand new (5yr? old SPL "blue") bushing that's been waiting patiently. The same situation is playing out for me too. The blue bushing is beautiful, but it has a 1/16 chamfer on the leading edge, which plows into the aluminum sleeve in the sub frame, creating a nightmare if you taken the softer and slower (C-clamp) approach. The sleeve is definitely tapered, which makes sense, so I tapped it back out gently, front to back after coming up short. I then chamfered the edge tonight, but not as much as the latest design. This install can be a PITA if your sleeve is not perfectly round too. I round filed the sleeve before the SPL install to clean up and again after removing the SPL bushing because of the plowed alum. ring it created at front. The bushing is back in the freezer now, waiting until morning. I am so tempted to use auto grease, I'm getting that frustrated with the PB and WD40, which evaporated and left me using white lithium at the last second, still 1/2" short of flush at the end of the day.
I just can't bring myself to beating the hell out of my SPL tool and sleeve which is tig welded in the subframe. I've seen welds crack from shock, it's not pretty... and just to let others know, my sleeve did get a hairline crack at the front edge, but the weld is holding it together. I used the clamp method, the SPL tool at rear and a 2x4 across the front. The pressure of the SPL busing at the end of the tapered sleeve is causing it to pull forward, the hairline crack, without adequate back pressure. At this point, I'm assuming its related to the inconsistency of the 2x4's wood density. Some areas sunk while others didn't. So, this time around I'm using a 4"x1/2" round plate in place of the 2x4, fingers crossed!!

Side note: I'm curious, has anyone had SPL's solid diff. bushing get sloppy over time? I've always wondered about the steel shaft being supported by the aluminum, round hole to oblong...?

Last edited by Zquicksilver; 06-02-2015 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:40 AM
  #179  
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If you put it on dry ice for four hours it goes in without any effort...
Your results may vary a little because of the trouble you have described with the frame. Even with the dry ice the bore had to be perfectly smooth, but if it is in good shape the bushing should literally push right in by hand! You only have 5-10 seconds to do it though, so if it does not go in take it back out immediately and work on the bore some more. Put it back on ice while you fix it.

Originally Posted by Zquicksilver View Post
More people will come out of the woodwork as the Z/G's get older and need suspension-drivetrain upgrades, so here's my story...

So, it's 2015 and I just tried installing a brand new (5yr? old SPL "blue") bushing that's been waiting patiently. The same situation is playing out for me too. The blue bushing is beautiful, but it has a 1/16 chamfer on the leading edge, which plows into the aluminum sleeve in the sub frame, creating a nightmare if you taken the softer and slower (C-clamp) approach. The sleeve is definitely tapered, which makes sense, so I tapped it back out gently, front to back after coming up short. I then chamfered the edge tonight, but not as much as the latest design. This install can be a PITA if your sleeve is not perfectly round too. I round filed the sleeve before the SPL install to clean up and again after removing the SPL bushing because of the plowed alum. ring it created at front. The bushing is back in the freezer now, waiting until morning. I am so tempted to use auto grease, I'm getting that frustrated with the PB and WD40, which evaporated and left me using white lithium at the last second, still 1/2" short of flush at the end of the day.
I just can't bring myself to beating the hell out of my SPL tool and sleeve which is tig welded in the subframe. I've seen welds crack from shock, it's not pretty... and just to let others know, my sleeve did get a hairline crack at the front edge, but the weld is holding it together. I used the clamp method, the SPL tool at rear and a 2x4 across the front. The pressure of the SPL busing at the end of the tapered sleeve is causing it to pull forward, the hairline crack, without adequate back pressure. At this point, I'm assuming its related to the inconsistency of the 2x4's wood density. Some areas sunk while others didn't. So, this time around I'm using a 4"x1/2" round plate in place of the 2x4, fingers crossed!!

Side note: I'm curious, has anyone had SPL's solid diff. bushing get sloppy over time? I've always wondered about the steel shaft being supported by the aluminum, round hole to oblong...?

Last edited by bjr; 06-03-2015 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:11 AM
  #180  
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^ Thanks for the suggestions...
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