DIY - Solid diff bushing install - No subframe drop method, no c clamp either!
#84
New Member
iTrader: (21)
Quick question....
I'm in the middle of installing my rear subframe bushing for the second attempt.
The original plan was to hammer it in while cold, so my neighbor who is a mechanic advised me to drive it in from the front since there is more room to swing a hammer from that side (car is on a lift)
So we proceeded to hammer in the bushing but once again it got stuck. We were able to hammer it in about .75 inches.
I then went out and got some grade 8 bolts and have been using a brake rotor as a press plate and have got it in further.
I'm now at about 1 inch in, 1.75 to go. But I notice the bushing is not going in flush. It is definitely visually deeper on one side than the other.
Should I press the bushing back out and start again? Maybe from the rear like I originally planned, or should I just keep pressing with the grade 8 bolts, it will align itself?
I ask because the effort to press it in seems momumental. Don't want to do any further damage.
I'm in the middle of installing my rear subframe bushing for the second attempt.
The original plan was to hammer it in while cold, so my neighbor who is a mechanic advised me to drive it in from the front since there is more room to swing a hammer from that side (car is on a lift)
So we proceeded to hammer in the bushing but once again it got stuck. We were able to hammer it in about .75 inches.
I then went out and got some grade 8 bolts and have been using a brake rotor as a press plate and have got it in further.
I'm now at about 1 inch in, 1.75 to go. But I notice the bushing is not going in flush. It is definitely visually deeper on one side than the other.
Should I press the bushing back out and start again? Maybe from the rear like I originally planned, or should I just keep pressing with the grade 8 bolts, it will align itself?
I ask because the effort to press it in seems momumental. Don't want to do any further damage.
#86
Living in 350Z
iTrader: (64)
Ive NEVER pressed in from the other way.. If you want to cheat a little, theres only 2 bolts in the back (closest to exhaust catback) holding the subframe up.. Take them out, and the subframe will lower a little bit. I usually remove the catback if its in the way.
and dont forget LUBE! LOL
and dont forget LUBE! LOL
#89
New Member
iTrader: (21)
well I went out to the garage and hammered it straight. Then I went back to pressing. All was going well until the used rotor shattered. lol.
Its down to 18 mm, or like less than .75 inches.
I have another rotor and hopefully that finishes it off before that brake rotor breaks too.
Its down to 18 mm, or like less than .75 inches.
I have another rotor and hopefully that finishes it off before that brake rotor breaks too.
#94
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
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Here is a quick tip to help save even more time. To remove the oem bushings from the ears on the diff just take a 36mm socket and a hammer. Line it up with the steel ring holding the oem busing in place and hammer away. It took 6 hits for the entire thing to pop out for me, and I didn't even have the diff in a vice, I just had it sitting on a old wobbly wooden table.
Here are a couple pics for reference.
Here are a couple pics for reference.
#95
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Here is a quick tip to help save even more time. To remove the oem bushings from the ears on the diff just take a 36mm socket and a hammer. Line it up with the steel ring holding the oem busing in place and hammer away. It took 6 hits for the entire thing to pop out for me, and I didn't even have the diff in a vice, I just had it sitting on a old wobbly wooden table.
Here are a couple pics for reference.
Here are a couple pics for reference.
I think i had a random chunk of pipe the right size and took 3-4 good smacks with a mini-sledge.
#100
Registered User
great write up. did the install to day. one thing i would say is that a BFH is needed. my 16oz hammer didnt have enough OMPH to get the bushing in. i used a mini sledge, it made short work of it.
also i had trouble cutting out the center of the bushing with a ripcip saw and a wood blade. it only wanted to make strait cuts in the rubber. i think that frakensocket would be better, and less messy. you could also try putting some anti seize on the bolt so it wouldent break.
also i had trouble cutting out the center of the bushing with a ripcip saw and a wood blade. it only wanted to make strait cuts in the rubber. i think that frakensocket would be better, and less messy. you could also try putting some anti seize on the bolt so it wouldent break.