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DIY - Solid diff bushing install - No subframe drop method, no c clamp either!

Old 02-19-2012, 10:07 AM
  #81  
F2CMaDMaXX
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I'm sorry, i know the bushing you're referring to, i'm after the source of the replacement.

Is there anything to get that doesn't increase the harshness as much? i know you can't get the stock item separately.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:56 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by F2CMaDMaXX View Post
I'm sorry, i know the bushing you're referring to, i'm after the source of the replacement.

Is there anything to get that doesn't increase the harshness as much? i know you can't get the stock item separately.
I got mine from SPLparts.com

For my car I had the shop slip in some rubber sheets (45 mil thick) in between the SPL bushings and the subframe - it helped a bit to keep things quiet.

whiteline has some urethane bushings but I haven't heard of anyone installing them.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:48 PM
  #83  
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So is this a poly type part?

Surely a solid rubber bushing wouldn't be much worse than the fluid filled one as stock?
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:11 AM
  #84  
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Quick question....

I'm in the middle of installing my rear subframe bushing for the second attempt.
The original plan was to hammer it in while cold, so my neighbor who is a mechanic advised me to drive it in from the front since there is more room to swing a hammer from that side (car is on a lift)

So we proceeded to hammer in the bushing but once again it got stuck. We were able to hammer it in about .75 inches.

I then went out and got some grade 8 bolts and have been using a brake rotor as a press plate and have got it in further.

I'm now at about 1 inch in, 1.75 to go. But I notice the bushing is not going in flush. It is definitely visually deeper on one side than the other.

Should I press the bushing back out and start again? Maybe from the rear like I originally planned, or should I just keep pressing with the grade 8 bolts, it will align itself?
I ask because the effort to press it in seems momumental. Don't want to do any further damage.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:50 AM
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From what I remember when AcidJake and I were doing mine, it straightened out on its own as you pressed it in further and further.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:20 AM
  #86  
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Ive NEVER pressed in from the other way.. If you want to cheat a little, theres only 2 bolts in the back (closest to exhaust catback) holding the subframe up.. Take them out, and the subframe will lower a little bit. I usually remove the catback if its in the way.

and dont forget LUBE! LOL
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:22 AM
  #87  
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Here lately - they have been going in like nothing (the SPL's)..

Yep - It will straighten out..
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:33 PM
  #88  
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OH NO....the taper on the one end helps self align it, i say take it back out and go in from the rear like the bushing is tapered to do so.

-J
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:50 PM
  #89  
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well I went out to the garage and hammered it straight. Then I went back to pressing. All was going well until the used rotor shattered. lol.

Its down to 18 mm, or like less than .75 inches.

I have another rotor and hopefully that finishes it off before that brake rotor breaks too.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:48 PM
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And second brake rotor press plate broke in 2 seconds.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:29 AM
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acke15
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How long do you freeze the bushing for?
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:20 PM
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Seen reference to a couple of days.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:25 PM
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I would let it freeze for minimum of 48 hrs. That should be plenty of time to shrink it.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:01 PM
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Here is a quick tip to help save even more time. To remove the oem bushings from the ears on the diff just take a 36mm socket and a hammer. Line it up with the steel ring holding the oem busing in place and hammer away. It took 6 hits for the entire thing to pop out for me, and I didn't even have the diff in a vice, I just had it sitting on a old wobbly wooden table.

Here are a couple pics for reference.



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Old 05-13-2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JuJube View Post
Here is a quick tip to help save even more time. To remove the oem bushings from the ears on the diff just take a 36mm socket and a hammer. Line it up with the steel ring holding the oem busing in place and hammer away. It took 6 hits for the entire thing to pop out for me, and I didn't even have the diff in a vice, I just had it sitting on a old wobbly wooden table.

Here are a couple pics for reference.



Good call. Every 36mm socket may not be the same outer diameter though. If you could put a set of calipers on it and let everyone know what the O.D. was that would be pretty helpful.

I think i had a random chunk of pipe the right size and took 3-4 good smacks with a mini-sledge.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:11 PM
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Yeah i'd love to know the outside size too

Thanks for posting this as well, very useful.
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:11 PM
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I don't have a set of calipers to measure it right now. But I will grab a set and post as soon as I can.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:16 PM
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Hmm, i'm thinking that i can't change the 'ear' bushes without taking the diff off the car?
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:10 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by F2CMaDMaXX View Post
Hmm, i'm thinking that i can't change the 'ear' bushes without taking the diff off the car?
You got it.
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:51 PM
  #100  
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great write up. did the install to day. one thing i would say is that a BFH is needed. my 16oz hammer didnt have enough OMPH to get the bushing in. i used a mini sledge, it made short work of it.

also i had trouble cutting out the center of the bushing with a ripcip saw and a wood blade. it only wanted to make strait cuts in the rubber. i think that frakensocket would be better, and less messy. you could also try putting some anti seize on the bolt so it wouldent break.
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