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Right, the first pic was from the OP so I could show you what bottom bracket I was talking about. The second pic is the stock block I took tonight where I thought the SS was only long enough to get to
Ok i need peoples help on this. I soaked the lower clutch line nut, the one that connects to the tranny hose, in PB blaster, liquid wrench, and now tranny oil. I bought the correct 10mm flange nut wrench, which is recommended for this nut.
And this ****ing nut is still almost stripped. Is it because the shop that installed the CSC line over tightened the **** out of it? I am really starting to believe so. The nut is lubed, I'm using the correct wrench at the correct seating/angle, and its still sliding. I'm letting it soak in tranny fluid overnight, and there isnt a great angle to use visegrips.
How can I get this nut off? I'm replacing the entire line, so its fine if its irreparably damaged as long as I can get it off quickly.
It looks rounded already, break the hardline off and put a socket or boxed end wrench on it.
Originally Posted by Rev_Night
Ok i need peoples help on this. I soaked the lower clutch line nut, the one that connects to the tranny hose, in PB blaster, liquid wrench, and now tranny oil. I bought the correct 10mm flange nut wrench, which is recommended for this nut.
And this ****ing nut is still almost stripped. Is it because the shop that installed the CSC line over tightened the **** out of it? I am really starting to believe so. The nut is lubed, I'm using the correct wrench at the correct seating/angle, and its still sliding. I'm letting it soak in tranny fluid overnight, and there isnt a great angle to use visegrips.
How can I get this nut off? I'm replacing the entire line, so its fine if its irreparably damaged as long as I can get it off quickly.
It looks rounded already, break the hardline off and put a socket or boxed end wrench on it.
How do I do this?
Edit: the 10mm boxed end wrench did end up stripping it some at first that's why I bought the flange nut wrench. As for the socket, fine I break off the hardline at the orifice block and slide a socket down to the nut. But with that wire there how do I attach a ratchet to the socket?
Last edited by Rev_Night; Nov 7, 2015 at 04:35 PM.
Edit: the 10mm boxed end wrench did end up stripping it some at first that's why I bought the flange nut wrench. As for the socket, fine I break off the hardline at the orifice block and slide a socket down to the nut. But with that wire there how do I attach a ratchet to the socket?
If you have the line off the block you should be able to pull the whole line out of the bracket on the frame. Just take the lock plate out.
You can cut or break the line off the nut and use a wrench on it, Boxed end wrench, Use the other end not the open end. Slide it down over the line since you have it loose at one end now.
Yeahhhh i couldn't do any of that in my driveway. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who heated it up until it get red then he was able to remove it just fine
Wilwood V3 mounted few months ago and still issues
Originally Posted by Rev_Night
Yeahhhh i couldn't do any of that in my driveway. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who heated it up until it get red then he was able to remove it just fine
Hi all,
I purchased a master clutch Wilwood V3 (with reservoir included) for my 350Z MY06, single intake. I changed together also the slave and the cluth with a JWT heavy duty. After few months now the pedal goes down very often and maked the car undrivable. My car has ESP OFF button under the dahboard (not VDC), does it mean I should have taken the V2/tilton, or the V3 is fine? Should I use any specific oil? I used a DOT 4, i see no leakage, but the oil is definitely not clear, looks pretty opaque and dark grey.
