Just got my seibon oem hood. I had a hard time lineing it up and it's still tight near the drivers headlight and on the drivers side along the fender there's a little gap on the passengers side is perfect. Should I send it back and get another one. Also do I have to drill holes on the underside to install the rubber seal in the front. Also the bumpstops won't fit. The holes are to small. Did anyone have these problems.

 

I will take pictures too so you guys can give me some ideas.

 

Pics would greatly help

 

You will have to play around with the 4 screws and the latch to line up the hood right. You will need to drill the holes bigger in order for the weathering strips to fit. Did you buy this locally?(Hope you did because Seibon will most likely not take the hood back) I went through 2 months trying to return my defective hood to find out that Seibon was just wasting my time with no intentions of giving me a refund or a exchange. Good luck with your hood.

 

I bought the hood from Jeff at 500whp.com..... I figured I had to drill holes for the weatherstripping and longate the holes for the rubber stoppers. The hood didn't even come with any hardware to bolt it in. Do I need to install the weatherstripping right away or can I wait? I'm going to go take some pictures in a little while so you guys can see what I'm up against. Thanks for all the help.

 

Here are the pictures.....

 

Looks like the drivers side hinge mount needs to move a little toward the front of the car... My 2¢

 

Looks like it will fit better than mine. My TS hood seems to be too narrow (gaps on both sides).

I agree with teh215. Move the driver's side toward the front of the car.

Does your hood latch correctly?

:edit: I just noticed that the front driver's side is too close to the light to move it up... um... I don't know what to say then.

 

Did you get that TS hood recently? I was considering getting one, but I heard they had fittment issues with the TS. Some folks were saying that they may have fixed the fitment issues in later runs, but if you got yours recently that leads me to believe otherwise...

 

Ok this is what you do.

Pop the hood open, but dont lift it up all the way. Let the hood rest on the latch but not 'locked'.

loosen all 4 bolts, but dont unscrew any of them. pull the hood a bit on X & Y axis an make sure the hood lines up. if at this point the hood doesn't line up, then you have a defect.

see how that goes

 

all hoods and bodykits are alike. the best fitting hoods / bodykits are the first patch.

a brand new molded hood can run about 200 patches without shifting too much.

ALL hood and bodykits are made from fiberglass. Over time the mold WILL shrink. Residue, wax, resin, heat, etc. etc.

Real carbon fiber is dry CF only.

90% of import cf parts are casted cf. i.e. Veilside V1 lip, CF hoods etc.

cf hoods work like this (in layers)

top

-------------
top clear coat / resin
-------------
1 sheet of thin cf
-------------
fiber glass reinforcement.
-------------
fiber glass structure
--------

end

Contrary to popular belief, CF plays no part but for eye candy.

It's actually 1 sheet of cf on fiberglass backing. Thats why it's so cheap.

Dry carbon is REAL carbon fiber.

 

I'm aware of this. Hell, I'd rather have a painted hood any day of the week... I just want to get a hood with some vents to allow for some airflow in the engine bay. The only option I have there is to go with the veilside fiberglass hood, which will cost me an arm and a leg to buy and get painted. Next option is to just buy a wet cf vented hood.

To the op: who did you buy the hood through? I know Seibon probably won't help at all but maybe the vendor will be willing to assist.

 

Safety concerns are actually a factor. Rule of thumb when using any fiberglass / wet carbon hood, always purchase with a set of hood pins. Doesn't have to be SPARCO, any latch type pins which are bolted to the frame of the car.

3 mph frontal crash will destroy any hood, causing the fiberglass to split into pieces.