autotechnic cf mirrors loose pivot point?
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autotechnic cf mirrors loose pivot point?
I recently got the autotechnic cf mirrors and i was wondering if you guys that have them are having the same problem i am. The pivot point where the ball joint is is kinda loose on the drivers side. The wind blows the mirror in when im on the higway and im tryin to find a way to fix it. Any ideas?
#2
Originally Posted by jdm3fiddyZ
I recently got the autotechnic cf mirrors and i was wondering if you guys that have them are having the same problem i am. The pivot point where the ball joint is is kinda loose on the drivers side. The wind blows the mirror in when im on the higway and im tryin to find a way to fix it. Any ideas?
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yeah i was thinkin to just put a drop of super glue in there after i set it into the right spot. I figure ill still have some adjustability from the other points. Anyon got anymore thoughts?
#7
Originally Posted by momo 350z
isnt there a alen head bolt holding it in place under the mirror part that you can tighten?
I would ask for a refund or exchange but I'm tired of taking the door panels off.. so epoxy glue it will be.. but if i do this, the mirrors will work for me only ... if someone else taller or shorter drives my car they will be in trouble..
Now if the temps would only get warmer and this damned rain would stop I could actually get around to using the epoxy..!!!
--mike
PS.. last time i ever buy replica goods!!! I'm now 2 for 2 as I had issues with the Shine Air Duct too...
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Originally Posted by jdm3fiddyZ
well, guess ima go w/ the drop of crazy glue in there. We'll see what happens then.
No need, all you need to do is make sure it's bolt on tight with the hex screw
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Originally Posted by SomeGuywitha-Z
No need, all you need to do is make sure it's bolt on tight with the hex screw
#15
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I understand that the ball joint is causing the loose problem. A fix, if this is the problem, is to drill a small hole in the socket and tap it for a set screw. Not real complicated, no need for welding. Yes, if it is necessary, it is a hassle, but as there is a $400 difference in price between the two mirrors, I think having someone drill and tap two tiny holes will end up being a lot cheaper. Bottom line, I wouldn't buy the Craftsquare mirrors, period. This way I can have something that looks very much the same, at a greatly reduced cost. If they were of the exact same quality, the prices would be much closer.
#16
if the pivot arm is loose, i think you can adjust the ball stub pressure by pushing up against the ball from the inside with the screw- by pushing the ball up into the crown of opening, you're applying more friction to it..
i just bought my paint and primer for the base.. when i take off the mirrors i'll see if there isnt an easier way to fix it..
FYI i havent had any issues with either side-
i just bought my paint and primer for the base.. when i take off the mirrors i'll see if there isnt an easier way to fix it..
FYI i havent had any issues with either side-
#18
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I had these types of mirrors on a sportbike once and had the same problems with them coming loose. You should be able to tighten them to where they won't come loose but if you do it too tight, you will have the same problem as glueing them, which is.......
If you glue them in place, when/if somebody bumps into them good enough, they will break and or bend the stems and the mirrors will be toast.
If you glue them in place, when/if somebody bumps into them good enough, they will break and or bend the stems and the mirrors will be toast.
#19
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How to tighten the pivot point on the AutoTechnica Mirrors
Ok, I haven't installed mine yet, but I took apart the mirror and it doesn't seem to be a problem to tighten the mirror stalk. Here are some pictures to explain what I am saying.
1. The stalk connects to the base with four pieces. There is the actual ball joint, which has an inner and outer threaded piece. Screwed into the inner thread is a brass insert with two slots. You use snap ring pliers to remove this. Inside this brass insert is a threaded rod, with one end to press on the ball joint, and one end has a hex head. The hex head faces out, away from the ball joint.
Sorry for the bad pictures, but you should get the idea.
The first picture (AT 02.jpg) shows snap ring pliers. Second (AT 03.jpg) shows the pliers inserted in the slots of the brass insert. Third (AT 04.jpg) shows the brass insert and the threaded, hex head threaded rod, seperated from the mirror and each other. The fourth picture (AT 05.jpg) shows the two pieces together. The idea is that the brass insert goes into the ball joint, and the threaded rod goes in and out of it, farther in, tighter, farther out (away from mirror) looser. I played with mine, getting the ideal length, since I had it out. But that should not be necessary, Just loosen the nut in the base (AT 01.jpg) a hair, then use the allen key that they gave you to turn the inner threaded rod into the ball joint. This will tighten up the joint, and then you tighten the outer nut that holds the mirror to the base. Play a little with it and you will get it.
1. The stalk connects to the base with four pieces. There is the actual ball joint, which has an inner and outer threaded piece. Screwed into the inner thread is a brass insert with two slots. You use snap ring pliers to remove this. Inside this brass insert is a threaded rod, with one end to press on the ball joint, and one end has a hex head. The hex head faces out, away from the ball joint.
Sorry for the bad pictures, but you should get the idea.
The first picture (AT 02.jpg) shows snap ring pliers. Second (AT 03.jpg) shows the pliers inserted in the slots of the brass insert. Third (AT 04.jpg) shows the brass insert and the threaded, hex head threaded rod, seperated from the mirror and each other. The fourth picture (AT 05.jpg) shows the two pieces together. The idea is that the brass insert goes into the ball joint, and the threaded rod goes in and out of it, farther in, tighter, farther out (away from mirror) looser. I played with mine, getting the ideal length, since I had it out. But that should not be necessary, Just loosen the nut in the base (AT 01.jpg) a hair, then use the allen key that they gave you to turn the inner threaded rod into the ball joint. This will tighten up the joint, and then you tighten the outer nut that holds the mirror to the base. Play a little with it and you will get it.