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Review of Central 20 spoiler from Shine Auto Project [Part 1: Material)

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Old 05-15-2006, 07:13 PM
  #1  
Bubble
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Unhappy Review of Central 20 spoiler from Shine Auto Project [Part 1: Material)

*disclaimer: This review is base on the fact that i prep and paint the spoiler by myself at the bodyshop.*

Product: Central 20 Spoiler
Manf: Shine Auto Project
Contact Info: ShineProject (forum nick here)
Cost:: Please contact Shine Auto Project directly.
Score: 6/10


Got the spoiler today from Ken. They pack the box really good. The spoiler is light. I didnt' have a chance to test fit yet since i spend the whole day to prep and fix the problem.

Problems so far:

* The edge around the spoiler is bad. Not smooth at all. Spending hours to sand down to made them look even and smooth.
* Too much air bubble hole

I spend few hours to sand down the edge around the spoiler to make sure it look smooth and nice. When everything ready, i clean it up and use the high pressure air to double check on bubble hole again. Everything looks good. Sealer coating sprayed. After taking out the paint booth, I found out more bubble hole pop out. I end up sand out the sealer coating, bondo and repeat the whole procedure again.

If this is a cheap quality spoiler from Ebay then i have no complain but I expect a bit more from Shine Auto Project. For most of you guys, you will not know about this problem since you just drop off your stuff at the bodyshop. This is one of the reason why they charge you the extra fee.

I'll post pictures about the problem i mention above tomorrow. Hopefully, fitment will be ok.


Last edited by Bubble; 05-15-2006 at 07:43 PM.
Old 05-15-2006, 07:17 PM
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mahont
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That sucks, how much did it cost you?
Old 05-15-2006, 09:14 PM
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The edge you are referring to is the split lines. We dont sand down split lines.....we only grind it to a certain point. This spoiler has to be made in two pieces no matter what, so the split line has to be there. Everyone who has gotten our bumpers........sides..........any part with split lines know that we dont sand down the split lines. I can also assure you that the original spoiler doesnt have the split lines sanded either.

Also.........if you used a "high pressure gun to DOUBLE CHECK" the spoiler for holes and found nothing........ what makes you think we can spot all the holes 100% perfect on every part? We do a reasonable eye inspection........and if we feel it's ok.........then we ship it out. That's why we have full refund policy. If a part happens to be sooo bad........then we take returns and send another one. This is hand made......not machine made.

Ken
Old 05-15-2006, 10:04 PM
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Bubble
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Sup Ken,

thanks for the info on the split line. About the holes, sometime you can't see them even after using the high pressure gun. However, after baking them in the paint booth, the hole comes out and that will be a *****hhhh to fix. This can be avoided when they layer the fiberglass. That seperate the line between good replica and ok replica.

the split line issue shouldn't be a big deal if they are in the front/side/rear since you can hide it. With spoiler, you can see ALL the edge. Can't cheat on it. hehehe

I hope you take this review as a positive feedback.

Last edited by Bubble; 05-15-2006 at 10:11 PM.
Old 05-15-2006, 10:26 PM
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tekkensux
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I pray my kit comes out painted right!!
Old 05-15-2006, 10:31 PM
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BTW Bubble, did you pay less than I did for the spoiler haha
Old 05-16-2006, 09:05 AM
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Bubble
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Originally Posted by tekkensux
BTW Bubble, did you pay less than I did for the spoiler haha


I don't know. I think the same.
Old 05-16-2006, 09:29 AM
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NerZ
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Originally Posted by Bubble
[I][COLOR="Red"][SIZE="1"]

If this is a cheap quality spoiler from Ebay then i have no complain but I expect a bit more from Shine Auto Project. For most of you guys, you will not know about this problem since you just drop off your stuff at the bodyshop. This is one of the reason why they charge you the extra fee.

Correct me if I'm wrong but this is coming from a person raving how great replica body kits are?
Old 05-16-2006, 09:34 AM
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Bubble
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Originally Posted by NerZ
Correct me if I'm wrong but this is coming from a person raving how great replica body kits are?
Keep in mind, i'm still root for replica. This is just one of many reviews i have here. Sometime they are good, sometime they are not great. I don't do 'one-way" review.

I'm rooting for replica but it doesn't mean i have to talk good about it all the time or give out "lying" review. You miss out the purpose of this review.

Last edited by Bubble; 05-16-2006 at 09:36 AM.
Old 05-16-2006, 12:58 PM
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Oh yeah..........if you put the part under extreme heat......microscopic air bubbles will arise. It's the gases that a trapped in the small bubbles that react. You love air bubbles dont you BUBBLE. If you're gonna leave it to dry.... use the sun.
Old 05-16-2006, 05:22 PM
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lolz, i'm not baking it at 130 degree. Just around 70 degree in the paint booth.

Anyway, update for 2nd tried.

pin holes still arise. No baking. I know what i'm doing. While we at it, we baked the JP front bumper at 125 degree and no pin hole, microscopic air bubbles arise at all. So to answer your question, i'm AFRAID to bake this spoiler in the first place. lolz Don't blame the extreme heat for pin hole issue. hehehe

At the end, I bondo the ENTIRE split lines around the spoiler just to be safe. (pain in the a.s.s)

Done with prepping today. I'll paint tomorrow and let see how the fitment is.
Old 05-16-2006, 06:43 PM
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thanks for giving out honest reviews. im sure after everything is done..it will look great
Old 05-16-2006, 07:17 PM
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james840a
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bubble, man sorry to hear about the pin holes. Mine had some too, but wasnt bad. My body shop guys said that it was one of the best look fiberglass bumbers they have seen. Now they did have to do a little prep work so they did have to charge me a little for that. But i did get my car back, but the front bumber they still have, there was a little spot were the paint came off. But the rest of it came out great. Its got about 3 layers of paint by now.
Old 05-16-2006, 08:43 PM
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Post up pictures of these pinholes you are talking about or you can send them to me. I will ask our materials supplier what he thinks to be the problem. Our parts sit out in the Sun all day long and it is adequate for drying. No pin holes arise.......otherwise , we would have a shop full of bad parts. And pinholes shouldn't arise from the spoiler just sitting there. So it has to be heat that is causing it to show. I never gave a definite number as to what EXTREME heat is........but I mentioned that drying in the sun should be adequate.
Old 05-16-2006, 08:55 PM
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pin holes could caused by poor layer of fiberglass (air traps inside). It keep sucks down the coating/paint. Pin holes WILL ARISE after you spray primer/ sealer coat. Not by just sitting there. This is NOT even go to painting yet. Still in prepping stage.

Prepping Stage:

* Wetsand to smooth down the surface (800/1000/1500)
* Clean the surface.
* Spray sealer coat
* Wait for sealer coat to dry
===> pin holes arise.
*Sand down the sealer coat
* Fill with body filler (bondo)
* Wait to for bondo to dry up
* Wetsand again
* Clean again
* Surface looks good.
* Spray sealer again
* Wait to dry
==> Farking pin holes still pop up.

That is what happen in the last 2 days with this spoiler. Heat is not the reason for pin holes to happen. It is how the fiberglass was layer. When you spray, it keep sucking down the coating ==> pin holes.

Last edited by Bubble; 05-16-2006 at 08:58 PM.
Old 05-16-2006, 09:10 PM
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bubble, your prepping procedures look to be very very exhaustive. What type of primer are you using? and are you shooting it from a can or a paint gun?
Old 05-16-2006, 09:17 PM
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Bubble
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the name of the sealer is not on top of my head now. I'll get the name later. Primer from the can is not good. I use the real stuff (mix it up) with paint gun.

What frustrate me the most is that i don't expect to run into this kind of trouble for this tiny spoiler. Most of the time, it would take me half or one day to prep. Next day to paint and clear coat and leave over night to dry. 2 days the most.
Old 05-16-2006, 09:30 PM
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try this for ur prep procedures.

Wash the entire surface down with water and ajax and while doing so scuff with a red schotch brite pad.

scuff the surface with 180 grit where areas have fairly large cuts or imperfections and put on ur filler then sand it back down with 180 grit.

Then spray a 2 part epoxy primer over the entire area

block sand with 400

rinse really good with water and red scotch brite pad.
Old 05-16-2006, 09:31 PM
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o yea, and take pics of the wing, its hard to tell what u need to do without pics but these steps will work for almost all cases...
Old 05-16-2006, 09:41 PM
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Bubble
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lolz..with the split line all over the place, you even have to use 80 grid to smooth it down. hehehe

I'll take picture on Thursday (busy tomorrow, can't stop by the shop)


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