Has anyone else out there tried to make a nice, removable, yet well attached cover plate for the seat heater switches in their console? I have been trying to make something that looks halfway decent, that doesn't rattle or move around, and that is strong enough to have my elbow bang it without switching the seat heater on, and so far, I can't make anything that meets all those criteria. So I figured that someone else out there has also tried to do this, and that maybe I can get some ideas on what the best material is, and how to attach it best.
First off, my interior is Frost. I am assuming that the charcoal interior console is darker, so I am most interested in a material that will best match the Frost console.
Next, I will explain what I have tried so far. I'm not about to show pictures, since I'm not happy with my results as of yet, and wouldn't want anyone to think that I would put something so shoddy in my car. My first cover was a piece of gray fiberglass cut from a storage bin. After cutting it, I discovered that the hole isn't really rectangular-It's trapezoidal, with the wide part forward. But the difference is only about 1/8", so it's a subtle trapezoid. But I didn't like the 1/16" gap on either side, so I tossed it, and since I didn't like the color or feel that much, I decided to seek a different material.
My second attempt was made using a piece of plastic from the lid of a tote box. It had ribs on the bottom that I figured would strengthen it. It turns out I had to shave them almost entirely off for clearance. I then took some adhesive-backed stiff foam, about 3/8" thick, and cut two wedges that measured about 1/2" square. The taper was from 3/8" to about 1/8". I then stuck equal sized pieces of self-adhesive hook to them, and strips of self-adhesive loop between the switches, and then I placed the inverted wedges atop them, removed the backing from the hook, and pushed the plate onto them so they would be located in the proper place on the plate. (For those unfamiliar with the proper terminology for Velcro, a trademarked name, hook is the hard stuff with the little hooks, and loop is the soft stuff that it grabs ahold of)
Now, the thing was covered, but I think it was too loose, so I put a third wedge in the location over the dead switch plate and stuck a piece of loop to it as well. Now it was pretty well attached, but I don't like the look of it, and besides, the plastic is taking a little bend, probably because the ribs were removed, so now it doesn't fit like it should.
So that's where I stand now. I've considered taking high density foam and cutting it to plug the space, using the hook and loop to attach it, but I don't think it will prevent the switch from engaging if it's hit just right. So who has any better ideas? And if you've already made one, what with and how did you do it? I'm sure I'm not the only one who's interested. It's just that the weather is already getting warm around here, and it's a lot more annoying to switch the damn thing on when it's hot out. I'm waiting to hear from all of you materials geniuses. (I thought I wasn't too bad myself, but apparently, I'm just a rank amateur.)

 

Hmmm... Well, I'm trying to interpret your post. I really appreciate those longer posts - they make the forum more worth reading! But I have trouble visualizing what you're trying to do. My best guess is that you're trying to construct a piece that fits over those buttons so that when you're driving along you don't knock your seat heater buttons on.

So I'm going to assume this is what you're asking about, and reply from there. Just FYI - I don't have the touring, so I don't have this problem, but I have seen it so I have a good idea of what you're talking about. Honestly I might try building it this way:

Take a piece of semi-thick plexi-glass, about 1/4" or 1/8" deeper than those switches at their maximum height. Now remove the panel that houses those heater switches (thats pretty simple I think, if you can't do it any Nissan Dealer should be able to help you out). The next part requires a couple of machining tools, but if you find a custom plastics shop they should be able to help you out for only a few bucks. Use the panel from the car as a template and carefully mill out the spaces that you need for those buttons. This will look pretty rough, but you should be able to sand it down and then buff out any rough cuts. Also I would reccomend tapering off the edges, which you can actually do with some middle -> light grain sanding papers from any Home Depot. Also you'll want to pick up a polishing rag.

Now if you want it to look really sweet, I would put a simple hinge on the part. Just a small black hinge that attaches to that panel and then to the panel in the car. Honestly I'd put the hinge on the front part of the panel versus the back, simply so you won't be putting stress on the hinge when your elbow presses in to the piece of plexiglass.

All things considered this should run a few bucks for the plexi, maybe $20 for a plastic shop to do the milling for you. The hinge you could either drill the screws in to the plastic or use metal/plastic epoxy (don't remember the brand name right now). All told you should be able to get this done within a few hours once you've found your plastics shop (or have a buddy with a milling machine ???).

Good luck, hope this helps!

 

Dave-Thanks for the ideas, but I'm not interested in drilling holes into the cutaway and mounting a hinge. I know plenty of people who would mill out some plexi for me for nothing, so that's not the issue. I just want a simple, gray plastic cover that is easily removable yet fits flush and tight, strong enough to keep from toggling the switch, and doesn't look cheesy. But of course, that's easier said than done.

 

Hmm, if thats the case - I'd just go buy the panel for the frost interior without the heater switches. That way its the same size as what you're working with - same panel basically. Then just build a little "riser" in between. I'm not sure what you could use to bolster that part - I wouldn't use high-comp foam, probably just some plastic or maybe metal bars that can just hold it up.

Pretty close to stock look, right?

LOL, I still think the plexiglass hinged panel would look tight though.

Good luck! Pics when you come up with your solution please!

 

I had my switches moved to the right. Solve my elbow problem.
Dealer even did it for free.

 

I don't know if anyone else caught this, but I saw this in the service manual. There is suppose to be a cover for those buttons.... se below... now just need to find out the actual part number for it.... it's part 7 in the picture

 

How about radical approach.

Move the switches to the front dash (lots of choises for exact location). Cover all the holes.

As soon as I'll get that part from wrecked Z (to make mold), I'll try to replace it with carbon-fiber panel. No ashtray, no buttons.

 

I just wanted to thank you all for your input. "Whatever", especially. Now it's time to seek out the part number for that cover. Noahbuddy, that's pretty slick, too. I don't ever seem to engage the passenger seat heater accidentally, so that will solve my problem if the cover isn't available. (or costs too much, or is a piece of crap...)
Dczoner, as you can see, it's not just a small panel section that I could replace-we're talking about the entire center console. And considering what Nissan will probably charge me for just that cover plate, well, I would hate to see what they want for an entire center console. Remember, dealerships make their second largest profit on parts, (service being most profitable) and if you have priced out anything at your local dealership, you will be appalled at the list price. Of course, everything's negotiable, but still, when they start out grossly inflated, you still end up paying too much for stuff from them. I usually make my dealer price match Courtesy on the common stuff, but special order items??-forget it. Wish me luck.

 

here we go...

 

vlad do you know where you can buy that piece?

 

I photoshopped it.

I need to find original piece from wreked Z to make a mold...

 

Just out of curiosity - why do you need another one just to make a mold? Can't you just remove what you've got - make your mold - and then put the original one back in while you're building the piece?

 

Surface need to be smoothed then well polished to make a mold. Gelcoat and some other nasty staff shell be applied. So you can't put it back. If I were 100% sure I'll make a good mold, I could risk mine panel, but I prefer to get spare, so I don't have to worry and rush.

 

Guys:

That cover (as shown in the FSM document posted above) is only a blockout plate, for those that don't have heater switches. I don't know how it would work as a hinged lid, but I guess you could try.

Good luck. I hope it works for those of you that need something there. Personally, I think moving the switches to the outside is a good idea, or moving them to somewhere else is good as well.