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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 04:13 PM
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Default Question about type of paint

okay i dont know anything about painting anything, so excuse the noob question....i was looking at spray paint from tower paint....and they have different paints....enamel and lacquer.....i have no idea what i need to paint the plastic pieces in the engine bay and also the sink plug for the wiper delete...which do i get?


thanks
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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I would paint anything that goes into the engine bay with high temp paint.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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First I would suggest a primer spray. You have ones for metal and plastic. Put 1-2 layers on the area you want to paint. Then you pick any color spray you like and put 2-3 layers on. Finish with 1-2 layers of clear coat (lacquer).
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by creationv2
okay i dont know anything about painting anything, so excuse the noob question....i was looking at spray paint from tower paint....and they have different paints....enamel and lacquer.....i have no idea what i need to paint the plastic pieces in the engine bay and also the sink plug for the wiper delete...which do i get?


thanks
anything plastic needs to be scuffed up with a scotch brite then hit with a plastic promoter, i would suggest "Bulldog" 1-2 light coats then hit with a high build primer. sanded smooth, then painted 2-3 light coats with ACRYLIC URETHANE ENAMEL. Then clear coated.

JaX_Z <- Collision Repair Degree
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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so i should get the enamel spray paint and clear coat it? or the lacquer spray paint and clear coat it?
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by creationv2
so i should get the enamel spray paint and clear coat it? or the lacquer spray paint and clear coat it?
enamel.

Also, dont rattle can it... its just waisting your time...
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JaX_Z
enamel.

Also, dont rattle can it... its just waisting your time...
thanks for the straight answer :-)....what do you mean dont rattle/shake the can?
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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it means unless you have a compressor and a proper spray gun, you should pay to have a body shop do it. Or at least an air brush gun.

Using spray paint, ala a hobby store or a home depot or whatever is going to look like you used spray painy
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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i disagree with not using the rattle can. if you do it correctly with sanding, primer, gloss finish and clear coat. it can look just as good done with a rattle can. just depends on the skills i suppose. but if you do use a rattle can make sure you get the paint with the correct nozzles.
just my .02
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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It all depends on your budget. If you want to get the idea across then spray cans are fine. I don't think there are too many out there that have mastered the fine art of show quality paint jobs using spray cans but I'm sure you could end up with something you could be proud of. Bull dog is a great start as an adhesion promoter because plastic has a way of not letting paint stick to it. Remember to just mist the piece with Bull Dog because this stuff runs like a motherf#*^er but it works great. And don't try to get full color on your first coat. Start with a mist/tack coat and remember to build slowly. Rest about 10-15 mins in between coats. I'm sure it will look fine
If you are interested in a show quality piece I can do that for you.
Good luck
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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If you're going to use a high build primer on the pieces I would use some 220 instead of scotchbrite. With that you're not going to do a thing. The 220 will give it that extra grab to it and high build primer will cover 220 marks. You really don't even have to primer them. You can just clean them good and and spray an adhesion promoter about 8 minutes before the base coat. I think the small texture gives it a neat effect, yet it's still smooth. That's how I did mine. Also 10-15 minutes is a little excessive for flash time in between base coats. More like 5 minutes, unless you just lay on it and run it.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 03Zilverstone
If you're going to use a high build primer on the pieces I would use some 220 instead of scotchbrite. With that you're not going to do a thing. The 220 will give it that extra grab to it and high build primer will cover 220 marks. You really don't even have to primer them. You can just clean them good and and spray an adhesion promoter about 8 minutes before the base coat. I think the small texture gives it a neat effect, yet it's still smooth. That's how I did mine. Also 10-15 minutes is a little excessive for flash time in between base coats. More like 5 minutes, unless you just lay on it and run it.
P sheets call for 45min flash But you know how we do it. Ive ran fine line over base after five min.
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