Origin Bodykit
Hey just wonderin if anyone has the Origin Lab Urban line installed on their car, and how the fitment was.
I'm up in arms whether I should do it or not considering i've haven't heard much about it, or if I should go with a more tried and true kit. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.http://www.intensepower.com/orlaburlifuf.html
I'm up in arms whether I should do it or not considering i've haven't heard much about it, or if I should go with a more tried and true kit. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.http://www.intensepower.com/orlaburlifuf.html
hmmm I thought it was FRP like the Vertex kits?
Isn't FRP a stronger more flexibile fiberglass compound? Ruh roh...I know not about body stuff, I just work on engines
Do the vertex kits get damaged easily?
Isn't FRP a stronger more flexibile fiberglass compound? Ruh roh...I know not about body stuff, I just work on engines

Do the vertex kits get damaged easily?
Lol.. They add that FRP(Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) name now to get more people to buy it.... That **** breaks just as easy... If you search enough on here.. There has been alot of Vertex Kits with holes in the front bumper or pot hole damage.. IMHO I wouldnt touch FRP or any Fiberglass with a 1billion foot pole!
My story or experience with Fiberglass.....
Part 1- Pulled into a carwash with slits for the Wheels (didnt have much body heart break yet, so I didnt even think to inspect the entire car wash for Clearance) after the front of tire got over the hump.. the back slid down and I heard a loud CRACK!! Got out the car and literally went BLIND of the cracked side skirt view HORROR!!
Part 2- Parked on a small 2 inch curb half on half off.. Pulled off slowly and CRIZZZZZZACK!! The curb Pulled the damn bumper off!! Talk about Deja Vu!!
My story or experience with Fiberglass.....
Part 1- Pulled into a carwash with slits for the Wheels (didnt have much body heart break yet, so I didnt even think to inspect the entire car wash for Clearance) after the front of tire got over the hump.. the back slid down and I heard a loud CRACK!! Got out the car and literally went BLIND of the cracked side skirt view HORROR!!
Part 2- Parked on a small 2 inch curb half on half off.. Pulled off slowly and CRIZZZZZZACK!! The curb Pulled the damn bumper off!! Talk about Deja Vu!!
Last edited by Jay'Z; Feb 17, 2007 at 01:15 PM.
Originally Posted by xedes
You failed to mention that fiberglass is also easier to repair if anything does happen.
If you rub on anything.. Like we all will!!!!! Like on a retarded road with a huge concave ramp... Instead of rubbing on the lip and seeing a scratch on urethane you will likely crack the entire Fiberglass bumper.... My Opinion is over...
Thanks.. Jonb OUT!!
Last edited by Jay'Z; Feb 17, 2007 at 01:27 PM.
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all the people I've talked to say urethane is irrepairable and won't even touch it. My friend had a small dent in his front where a trailer hitch hit it and every place he went they said all he could do was order a new bumper. Also fiberglass/frp is usually substantially lighter and will not bow at high speeds. (not that that is a huge deal for most of us.) just my personal experience.
Originally Posted by slackjaw
yeah, and I don't hit stuff with my car anyway.
You say that now..... Nobody purposely hits stuff.... Its an accident.. Hence the name ACCIDENT..
Originally Posted by oro
hmmm I thought it was FRP like the Vertex kits?
Isn't FRP a stronger more flexibile fiberglass compound? Ruh roh...I know not about body stuff, I just work on engines
Do the vertex kits get damaged easily?
Isn't FRP a stronger more flexibile fiberglass compound? Ruh roh...I know not about body stuff, I just work on engines

Do the vertex kits get damaged easily?
I think you just need to make sure what your buying. FRP is just as good as urethane, and is still repairable when "accidentally" broken. When you **** up an piece of urethane, that's it amigo, get a new bumper.
Check out shine auto project's website, and then tell me FRP is crap. You just have to make sure you are getting the real deal.
Check out shine auto project's website, and then tell me FRP is crap. You just have to make sure you are getting the real deal.
Originally Posted by bigmikewhite6
FRP dosent mold wortha s**t it dosent fit too well in my past experince
there are urethane kits that don't fit worth a damn either
When you **** up an piece of urethane, that's it amigo, get a new bumper.
urethane all the way i ran into a 18 wheeler tire on the highway going 65 miles per hour it ****ed the **** out of my paint but the bumber was still good fiberglass my *** lol.
Hello,
Wow, it's the never debate/battle between fiberglass and urethane. It's like trying to convince a staunch Republican to vote Hillary.. (chose your analogy). If you're scared of frp, then go urethane. If you want to fool yourself into believing that urethane is the almighty savior, then rock it. We sell both. I've had a full Do-Luck (fiberglass) body kit on my car for 2 years now. Daily driven. I haven't hit a curb, tire in the road, or anything else. Maybe I'm lucky, maybe my conscious awareness that I have over 5k in fiberglass JDM body kit, paint, and labor has paid off. 3 things that I know definitively about the subject:
1. Chose wisely the manufacturer of the body kit. You will have greater success in it's fit, ease of prep, and overall quality. The subject of this threat, Origin Lab, for those who aren't familiar with the manufacturer, should know that it's a Japanese company, producing stylish, well fitting, high-grade material, body kits for many drift car applications for a number of years now. This is their first go at the 350z market.
2. Fiberglass is easy and cheap to repair, compared to urethane. Fiberglass is fragile, and like anything fragile, it should be well taken care of. The owner should, at all times, be conscious of that fact. If the owner is, then only bad luck will allow him to break it. That said, unless you lose a huge chunk out of the frp piece (and then maybe it's still repairable at Intense
) it's repairable.
3. Urethane is repairable. Urethane is very expensive, and very difficult to repair. Urethane is more flexible than it's fiberglass counterpart, and therefore more forgiving when bumped lightly. This is it's selling point, and the trump card that urethane fanatics will tend to use the most. However, urethane is also heavy, sloppy, and tends to lose shape over time. This may be one of the major reasons why the top Japanese aero manufacturers (Top Secret, VeilSide, Do-Luck, C-West, Ings) choses fiberglass for 90% of the material they make body kits out of. Last, urethane doesn't have a force field around it that prohibits damage. It's breakable..
In the end, chose the aero piece(s) by it's manufacturer's reputation (quality of material, ease of prep, overall fitment) and styling, not it's material. If your driving conditions are hostile, and unpredictable -- lending itself to easily destroying body kit pieces, or you simply don't trust yourself to be discipline in your driving style, then I suggest you keep your car aerodynamics stock. This is my professional opinion, obviously, but then, Intense also owns a body shop too..
Darren (doesn't just sell it, but also works for a company that preps it, paints it, installs it, repairs it, and makes custom aero pieces)
Wow, it's the never debate/battle between fiberglass and urethane. It's like trying to convince a staunch Republican to vote Hillary.. (chose your analogy). If you're scared of frp, then go urethane. If you want to fool yourself into believing that urethane is the almighty savior, then rock it. We sell both. I've had a full Do-Luck (fiberglass) body kit on my car for 2 years now. Daily driven. I haven't hit a curb, tire in the road, or anything else. Maybe I'm lucky, maybe my conscious awareness that I have over 5k in fiberglass JDM body kit, paint, and labor has paid off. 3 things that I know definitively about the subject:
1. Chose wisely the manufacturer of the body kit. You will have greater success in it's fit, ease of prep, and overall quality. The subject of this threat, Origin Lab, for those who aren't familiar with the manufacturer, should know that it's a Japanese company, producing stylish, well fitting, high-grade material, body kits for many drift car applications for a number of years now. This is their first go at the 350z market.
2. Fiberglass is easy and cheap to repair, compared to urethane. Fiberglass is fragile, and like anything fragile, it should be well taken care of. The owner should, at all times, be conscious of that fact. If the owner is, then only bad luck will allow him to break it. That said, unless you lose a huge chunk out of the frp piece (and then maybe it's still repairable at Intense
) it's repairable. 3. Urethane is repairable. Urethane is very expensive, and very difficult to repair. Urethane is more flexible than it's fiberglass counterpart, and therefore more forgiving when bumped lightly. This is it's selling point, and the trump card that urethane fanatics will tend to use the most. However, urethane is also heavy, sloppy, and tends to lose shape over time. This may be one of the major reasons why the top Japanese aero manufacturers (Top Secret, VeilSide, Do-Luck, C-West, Ings) choses fiberglass for 90% of the material they make body kits out of. Last, urethane doesn't have a force field around it that prohibits damage. It's breakable..
In the end, chose the aero piece(s) by it's manufacturer's reputation (quality of material, ease of prep, overall fitment) and styling, not it's material. If your driving conditions are hostile, and unpredictable -- lending itself to easily destroying body kit pieces, or you simply don't trust yourself to be discipline in your driving style, then I suggest you keep your car aerodynamics stock. This is my professional opinion, obviously, but then, Intense also owns a body shop too..
Darren (doesn't just sell it, but also works for a company that preps it, paints it, installs it, repairs it, and makes custom aero pieces)
Last edited by INTENSEPOWER; Feb 18, 2007 at 12:48 PM.
There is most certainly a difference between some FRP's and regular fiberglass. If you think otherwise, you've never handled a shine auto project bumper. How else could they do this:


And yes I have a shine kit and it will do that. I've bent the hell out of my sideskirts going over ramps and speedbumps and they have no cracks.
But I digress... You're calling all fiber based bumpers crap? So the Nismo V2 is crap? Please.


And yes I have a shine kit and it will do that. I've bent the hell out of my sideskirts going over ramps and speedbumps and they have no cracks.
But I digress... You're calling all fiber based bumpers crap? So the Nismo V2 is crap? Please.
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