Momo steering wheel hub adapters Z1??
12-22-2007, 03:04 PM
#1
Momo steering wheel hub adapters Z1??
I finally found a Wheel I like, a Momo. It's the only one of it's kind I have been able to find so far and am thinking of getting it and putting it away until the factory wheel leather starts falling apart.
You can bash it, call it rice and go on about no airbag all you want, I don't care. I like it and that's that
I want a hub mount that will give the wheel as much distance from the driver as possible.
I notice Z1 has two size mounts a long and short. I sent them an e-mail a few days ago but haven't heard back yet. Supposidly their regular mount is suppose to be close to stock distance and the short one is for use with a quick disconnect ony. I don't want to use a quick disconnect but is there any other mount that moves the wheel any further away than thier regular one or is that the best bet? I can live with 1" closer than stock but not much more than that.
Also the Z1 mount comes with the airbag delete, which is a plus. Also will I be able to retain the horn with any non removable mount? also what about trun signal cancel function? I have the base model so no other wires, or concerns than that.
For all the search police, I did search. Found some answers but were for different setups.
You can bash it, call it rice and go on about no airbag all you want, I don't care. I like it and that's that
I want a hub mount that will give the wheel as much distance from the driver as possible.
I notice Z1 has two size mounts a long and short. I sent them an e-mail a few days ago but haven't heard back yet. Supposidly their regular mount is suppose to be close to stock distance and the short one is for use with a quick disconnect ony. I don't want to use a quick disconnect but is there any other mount that moves the wheel any further away than thier regular one or is that the best bet? I can live with 1" closer than stock but not much more than that.
Also the Z1 mount comes with the airbag delete, which is a plus. Also will I be able to retain the horn with any non removable mount? also what about trun signal cancel function? I have the base model so no other wires, or concerns than that.
For all the search police, I did search. Found some answers but were for different setups.
Last edited by Chad68; 12-22-2007 at 03:25 PM.
12-22-2007, 03:49 PM
#2
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we never got any email from you, but here goes
if you really want the wheel far away from you (why you would, I can't even guess), then just get the short hub. It is intended for use with the quick release or flip up, but it can be used alone too...it will sit noticeably closer to the cluster vs the std. length hub (short is about 50% the length as the std. hub)
horn is retained...it has no affect on the turn signals, both will work as they did before.
We have the short hubs in stock as well
if you really want the wheel far away from you (why you would, I can't even guess), then just get the short hub. It is intended for use with the quick release or flip up, but it can be used alone too...it will sit noticeably closer to the cluster vs the std. length hub (short is about 50% the length as the std. hub)
horn is retained...it has no affect on the turn signals, both will work as they did before.
We have the short hubs in stock as well
12-22-2007, 03:58 PM
#3
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
we never got any email from you, but here goes
if you really want the wheel far away from you (why you would, I can't even guess), then just get the short hub. It is intended for use with the quick release or flip up, but it can be used alone too...it will sit noticeably closer to the cluster vs the std. length hub (short is about 50% the length as the std. hub)
horn is retained...it has no affect on the turn signals, both will work as they did before.
We have the short hubs in stock as well
if you really want the wheel far away from you (why you would, I can't even guess), then just get the short hub. It is intended for use with the quick release or flip up, but it can be used alone too...it will sit noticeably closer to the cluster vs the std. length hub (short is about 50% the length as the std. hub)
horn is retained...it has no affect on the turn signals, both will work as they did before.
We have the short hubs in stock as well
So about how much closer would the regular hub position the wheel to the driver?
Thanks again.
12-22-2007, 04:07 PM
#4
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all depends what steering wheel you mate it to..some have offset spokes to them. The std. length hub positions a non offset wheel in just about the same location as stock
12-23-2007, 02:12 PM
#6
Cool I ordered the wheel today. Blew it up to actual size on my screen and it's going to look amazing. I was planning on waiting till the factory wheel starts to wear out but probably won't wait that long HA. Think I'm just gonna swap them out before it starts to wear out, so when I put the stock back on to sell the car waaaaay down the road it won't be mangled lookng.
I'm going to buy the regular hub from you guys probably in the spring.
I'm going to buy the regular hub from you guys probably in the spring.
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12-27-2007, 02:53 AM
#9
I'm trying to make sure I have the uninstall steps correct before i start buying anything, because I have a feeling the instructions are in Japanese?
first diconnect battery.
Next pop of the plastic caps on each side and remove the 2 torx bolts (1 on each side) I already have the size 30 torx bit from a torx kit I bought 20 years ago from my old wheel swap. first thing I'm going to do is make sure I can at least crack those 2 bolts loose before I do/buy anything because I have heard they are a b!tch to remove with the loctite and all.
Then with those 2 bolts out, the air bag assembly should slide out?
Then disconnect/unplug all the wires to are bag assembly.
Then remove the 19MM I think it is, nut on the shaft.
Do I need to diconnect the green wire in the pic below?
At this point in the picture, is this where I would use the steering wheel puller? Or do I need to remove the other two opposing bolts in the pic? far as i know those 2 bolts just hold the wheel rim to the stock mounting plate?
Any idea what color wire will go to the horn and which for the air bag resisters? If the instructions are in English, I should be ok.
first diconnect battery.
Next pop of the plastic caps on each side and remove the 2 torx bolts (1 on each side) I already have the size 30 torx bit from a torx kit I bought 20 years ago from my old wheel swap. first thing I'm going to do is make sure I can at least crack those 2 bolts loose before I do/buy anything because I have heard they are a b!tch to remove with the loctite and all.
Then with those 2 bolts out, the air bag assembly should slide out?
Then disconnect/unplug all the wires to are bag assembly.
Then remove the 19MM I think it is, nut on the shaft.
Do I need to diconnect the green wire in the pic below?
At this point in the picture, is this where I would use the steering wheel puller? Or do I need to remove the other two opposing bolts in the pic? far as i know those 2 bolts just hold the wheel rim to the stock mounting plate?
Any idea what color wire will go to the horn and which for the air bag resisters? If the instructions are in English, I should be ok.
12-27-2007, 06:15 AM
#11
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the hubs come with the proper torx bits
there are install writeups posted already from a few people
the airbag assembly comes off with the stock steering wheel. You don't need a "puller" - if you wiggle the wheel with your hands at 12 and 6 oclock it will come off.
there are install writeups posted already from a few people
the airbag assembly comes off with the stock steering wheel. You don't need a "puller" - if you wiggle the wheel with your hands at 12 and 6 oclock it will come off.
02-15-2008, 12:35 PM
#13
LOL why am I not surprised.
I knew the 2 Torx bolts were going to be the most difficult part of installing the wheel and I was right. Un f$%ing real how stuck on those MFers are. I swear I had to use 70 lbs of force for a 3/16" dia. bolt. How the tiny wrench didn't snap on the first bolt is beyond me. It would have been easier to unbolt them if they welded them in place. Can't believe that a tiny bit of loctite can be such a PITFA. Read someplace the factory torque on those bolts is 6-10 lbs. Didn't mention you have to use a tire iron to remove them.
Managed to get the drivers side bolt out, had to fight it almost all the way out but the other striiiiiiiiiiip.
Now get to put everything on hold till Sunday so I can drill it out.
I seriosuly was tempted to rip the damn air bag off from the wheel by pulling up the the unbolted side and bending it back and forth till the metal fatiged and gave out but decided I will just chill out and wait to drill it out instead.
Don't think you could pay me enough to do this again.
Gonna be interseting drilling out the tamper proof bolts since it has that post dead center where the drill bit needs to go. Might use a cone shapped dremal grinding stone bit to grind away the post then drill it out.
Ok I'm done b!tching
I knew the 2 Torx bolts were going to be the most difficult part of installing the wheel and I was right. Un f$%ing real how stuck on those MFers are. I swear I had to use 70 lbs of force for a 3/16" dia. bolt. How the tiny wrench didn't snap on the first bolt is beyond me. It would have been easier to unbolt them if they welded them in place. Can't believe that a tiny bit of loctite can be such a PITFA. Read someplace the factory torque on those bolts is 6-10 lbs. Didn't mention you have to use a tire iron to remove them.
Managed to get the drivers side bolt out, had to fight it almost all the way out but the other striiiiiiiiiiip.
Now get to put everything on hold till Sunday so I can drill it out.
I seriosuly was tempted to rip the damn air bag off from the wheel by pulling up the the unbolted side and bending it back and forth till the metal fatiged and gave out but decided I will just chill out and wait to drill it out instead.
Don't think you could pay me enough to do this again.
Gonna be interseting drilling out the tamper proof bolts since it has that post dead center where the drill bit needs to go. Might use a cone shapped dremal grinding stone bit to grind away the post then drill it out.
Ok I'm done b!tching
Last edited by Chad68; 02-15-2008 at 12:39 PM.
02-15-2008, 12:52 PM
#14
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that sucks
I've done it a ton of times...I've never had a Z take me more than 5 minutes to remove the factory wheel. All I use is a 3/8 wratchet with the torx socket. Way easier than trying to do it with a little allen key
I've done it a ton of times...I've never had a Z take me more than 5 minutes to remove the factory wheel. All I use is a 3/8 wratchet with the torx socket. Way easier than trying to do it with a little allen key
02-15-2008, 02:00 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
that sucks
I've done it a ton of times...I've never had a Z take me more than 5 minutes to remove the factory wheel. All I use is a 3/8 wratchet with the torx socket. Way easier than trying to do it with a little allen key
I've done it a ton of times...I've never had a Z take me more than 5 minutes to remove the factory wheel. All I use is a 3/8 wratchet with the torx socket. Way easier than trying to do it with a little allen key
Not a huge deal, just kinda irritated. I honestly thought before I started I might have to end up drilling both bolts out anyway, so I guess i'm lucky I only need to drill one out.
02-21-2008, 08:34 AM
#16
I'm just posting this pic of the button assembly for somebody else because i couldn't figure out how to send a pic in a PM
Damn can't even upload it here either ok take that.
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Accessor...nButtonweb.jpg
Damn can't even upload it here either ok take that.
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Accessor...nButtonweb.jpg
Last edited by Chad68; 02-21-2008 at 08:37 AM.
02-24-2008, 06:07 PM
#17
Torx bolts and Loctite should both be outlawed
Well FINALLY got the wheel installed.
Un fugging real how much of a PITMFA it was all because of the stripped torx bolt. WTF is it with all the Loctite on these silly *** bolts. To prevent people fom tampering with the airbag LOL. Nope just slowed we way down.
Drilled a whole completly thru the bolt and nope no good, still wouldn't budge. Actually didn't go down the center of the bolt due in part to the center post on a tamperproof torx bolt, which prevents from drilling straight and true. The head was still left behind even though it was totaly drilled thru. Excess Loctite got on it I imagne.
Was so pissed I ended up just man handeling the air bag and bending the **** out of it and the sheetmetal looking steering bracket the airbag is attached to it far enough that I could get to the 19mm nut. Put a scratch on the left side alumimun trim piece on the factory wheel but I think I'll just do the factory audio control mod when I reinstall it way down the road.
By the way when I do reinstall it way down the road to sell the car and I know everything is working correctly when re asembled, I'm going to use a Phillips head screw with the tinyest slots possible and coat the whole thing with RED Loctite, hahahah take that ****'s!!!!
The airbag will be fine when I bent the tab back and figure out how to get the damn bolt out so I can retap it or something.
If it wasn't for the Torx bolt, it would have been a 30 minute job start to finish tops. Instead took 2 weeks or so due to lack of time and frustration and putting it off because of the bolt.
Good news is no airbag light. Wooo hoo.
Bad news is no horn. Have no idea why and right now don't care anyway. figure it out later. If the black wire off of the grey plug is hot, it should work but nope.
Don't know if the wheel is perfectly centered yet or not, should be. Tires are pointed dead ahead and so is the steering wheel but won't know for sure till I get a chance to drive it. If it's not perfectlly straight I don't know how you could adjust it, since it's lined up with the mark on the steering shaft. Guess you'd have to play around with it by loosening the 6 QR screws and see if you can fine adjust it that way and or crack loose the 19MM but and see if there is a tiny bit of play there too, kinda doubt it.
Anyway I HIGHLY reccomend NOT using the supplied Torx wrench and use the socket bit, extension and 1/2" drive. Yea I know plenty of people used the supplied wrench with no problems but whoever installed your bolts didn't use a paint spary gun to apply the Loctite.
Anyway, too dark to post pics. So have to wait on that.
Last thing on the list in the duct which goes in next weekend. Thank God no torx bolts are involved with that mod.
Un fugging real how much of a PITMFA it was all because of the stripped torx bolt. WTF is it with all the Loctite on these silly *** bolts. To prevent people fom tampering with the airbag LOL. Nope just slowed we way down.
Drilled a whole completly thru the bolt and nope no good, still wouldn't budge. Actually didn't go down the center of the bolt due in part to the center post on a tamperproof torx bolt, which prevents from drilling straight and true. The head was still left behind even though it was totaly drilled thru. Excess Loctite got on it I imagne.
Was so pissed I ended up just man handeling the air bag and bending the **** out of it and the sheetmetal looking steering bracket the airbag is attached to it far enough that I could get to the 19mm nut. Put a scratch on the left side alumimun trim piece on the factory wheel but I think I'll just do the factory audio control mod when I reinstall it way down the road.
By the way when I do reinstall it way down the road to sell the car and I know everything is working correctly when re asembled, I'm going to use a Phillips head screw with the tinyest slots possible and coat the whole thing with RED Loctite, hahahah take that ****'s!!!!
The airbag will be fine when I bent the tab back and figure out how to get the damn bolt out so I can retap it or something.
If it wasn't for the Torx bolt, it would have been a 30 minute job start to finish tops. Instead took 2 weeks or so due to lack of time and frustration and putting it off because of the bolt.
Good news is no airbag light. Wooo hoo.
Bad news is no horn. Have no idea why and right now don't care anyway. figure it out later. If the black wire off of the grey plug is hot, it should work but nope.
Don't know if the wheel is perfectly centered yet or not, should be. Tires are pointed dead ahead and so is the steering wheel but won't know for sure till I get a chance to drive it. If it's not perfectlly straight I don't know how you could adjust it, since it's lined up with the mark on the steering shaft. Guess you'd have to play around with it by loosening the 6 QR screws and see if you can fine adjust it that way and or crack loose the 19MM but and see if there is a tiny bit of play there too, kinda doubt it.
Anyway I HIGHLY reccomend NOT using the supplied Torx wrench and use the socket bit, extension and 1/2" drive. Yea I know plenty of people used the supplied wrench with no problems but whoever installed your bolts didn't use a paint spary gun to apply the Loctite.
Anyway, too dark to post pics. So have to wait on that.
Last thing on the list in the duct which goes in next weekend. Thank God no torx bolts are involved with that mod.
02-24-2008, 08:37 PM
#19
One thing I can think of is I ran the black wire from the gray plug to the center horn button tab and ran a wire from the outer horn button tab to the hub ring as the ground.
The only thing I can figure is that the aluminum QR is not a sufficant ground and the hub ring should go between the Bell hub and QR not the steering wheel and QR like i have it now.
Any thoughts on that theory?
The only thing I can figure is that the aluminum QR is not a sufficant ground and the hub ring should go between the Bell hub and QR not the steering wheel and QR like i have it now.
Any thoughts on that theory?
02-25-2008, 05:48 AM
#20
Interesting thing I discovered.
To test my theory that the QR was not a sufficiant ground, I used a paper clip as a make shift jumper from one of the hub bolts, that I know is a definate ground and touched it to the thin hub ring ground and it worked. I determined that it was just a **** poor ground.
Then on the way home while driivng I tried the horn without having had done anything and it worked. weird Seemed maybe it only worked while engine was running. I thought ya ok maybe it works with the engine running cuz the battery has more juice and a good ground isn't as necissary.
But
with the key out of the ignition, if the horn wouldn't honk, I could get it to work by turning the steering wheel about an inch or more in either direction.
So i still have some trouble shooting to do.
To test my theory that the QR was not a sufficiant ground, I used a paper clip as a make shift jumper from one of the hub bolts, that I know is a definate ground and touched it to the thin hub ring ground and it worked. I determined that it was just a **** poor ground.
Then on the way home while driivng I tried the horn without having had done anything and it worked. weird Seemed maybe it only worked while engine was running. I thought ya ok maybe it works with the engine running cuz the battery has more juice and a good ground isn't as necissary.
But
with the key out of the ignition, if the horn wouldn't honk, I could get it to work by turning the steering wheel about an inch or more in either direction.
So i still have some trouble shooting to do.
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