I know that car

 

If you could. I would also like to see a close up of the center console, see how his setup is. with the switches

 

The cross-bar should be as close to the back of the seats as possible. I believe within 3", and the Cardiff one looks to be at least that much.

 

my half-cage

https://my350z.com/forum/7417444-post71.html

 

why not remove the headliner??? did it come out high enough with moving it that much?

-J

 

I love how this cage has the door panels cut out to swallow the cage.......IMHO to follow the Z's contours and shear stress patterns (in case of an accident) the front A-pillar roll cage bar needs to be more forward and cut through the door panel and cut through the dash (right at the ac vent with the Z logo on the dash) if not straight through the dash completely with little to no bends.........

bends on the A pillar roll cage bar to be gradual high radius bends.....thats the stress analysis engineer in me talking....

-J

 

I meant I bumped up the mounting points, not the entire roll bar itself. I actually didn't remove my headliner because I wanted functional interior lights, although I had thought about it (probably too late now though).

The mounting points are now about an inch higher on each side, so instead of being almost 2.5" below the shoulders they are less than 1.5" below the shoulders. The former was acceptable per http://www.gforce.com/pdf/Harness_Install_Info.pdf but I wanted it closer to the 1" mark if at all possible for shorter drivers/passengers that may be in the car.

 

another good thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...re-i-come.html

-J

 

oh, my bad........thought you meant the whole bar..
-J

 

Heres a basic cage that has the door panel cut out to swallow the A pillar bar - done to minimize the bend in the A pillar roll cage bar as it goes down to the floor..........IMHO the dash should have been cut and the a pillar bar shouldn't have much of a bend at all.....


see the fwd mounting a pillar roll cage bar should mount to a plate that is welded to the Z floor that is opposite the Z jack point......thats the reinforced area under the car..and where crash loads would pass through.....there on the door jam frame (area where the floor meets the side of the car, if reinforced that is not a bad mount spot or the spot to be).



-J

 

Looks great.

Do you know where they got/what you call the little spacers that space out the harness bolts shown in this picture? I need some of those.

 

Go to a junk yard and the the spacers from the seat belt assembly off a Z.......its about that thick/tall. diameter on that one though is 7/16.

could also check other cars as the diameter for takata clips are .350 if i remember right..

-J

 

Thanks Calin.

Just ask around and search until you find someone good. I'm sure there is someone in Germany that can do something similar if not better. It took me 2 years to finally pick my cage builder that I wanted to go with.

Thanks

J,

I connected my takatas to the horizontal bar. The pictures Calin posted were from the Stillen meet a day after the car was done. The cage builder wanted me to put some clear wrapping around the paint prior to installing the harnesses, which is why the harnesses show as uninstalled in the pics

I agree with this 100%. I didn't run door panels on my CF doors because of this. I also plan to add some crash bars to the driver side if I ever get the interior painted again. If you look up my cage build thread, there may be some pics showing how my cage builder did not have to cut in to the OEM dash at all and was able to run the a-pillar bars really tight and tied them in with gussets/dimple plates. His measurements were so accurate that we only had to slightly trim the bottom of the driver side dash and the back of the center console to fit the dimple plating.

 

Do you any more pictures of this car. I would like to see the back, I like this idea, pretty clean and simple.

 

Agree. There is an assortment of roll cages that you can put is a Z:

SCCA certified
NHRA certified
Looks cool but is certified by no one.

Check with the club that you will be racing with.

 

That looks like Kevins car, TT kit , etc etc and sold to Kevin who moved to Vegas. Don't have a clue where it is now.

 

sorry no i dont.....but its similar to say the kirk bar....read below

DETAILS:
- hand built using plumb bobs and protractors. angles came out perfect! both sides came out identical.....it was a shock to see how it was all done by hand using typical hydraulic tube bender and all.
-hole saw cut tube ends.
-door panels cut to swallow A pillar roll cage forward bars
-gussets/plates at all body to tube points.
-Headliner removed to hide roll cage from view - headliner is really thick guys! lots of room if removed. this cage was beautify built considering how it was built....
REAR of cage:
Single tube hoop with diagnol bar and horizontal bar. then tubes running back, gussets at each location.

Cage is simple though, and im sure some events may not accept it depending on door protection requirements, etc.....but most can talk their way around all that...

Yes.....it was Aaron Losey's car. Cage built in San Antonio, TX. sold to Kevin when he was in Ft. Worth i believe. My favorite part was the hydro e-brake.

 

So let me ask which roll bar is better for weekend racers. As far as guidlines go and track regulations. The Kirk roll bar our cardiff

 

cardiff is built for german regulations. donīt think itīs gonna work at your racetracks. But the guys could do a custom made!

 

For a weekend Racer the kirk should satisfy most local club rules. I would recommend a shop install it with pulled seats and carpet and have floor plates/gussets made and have the kirk welded in versus bolted in though.

-J