My review of BumperFarm's Top Secret diffuser replica (pictures included)
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Not really. I removed the zip ties I used for the bumper tuck and that flap got stuck "tucked" over time, but I just pulled it down with my hand while mounting the diffuser and now it stays down.
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Here's a couple of my observations...
1. the aluminum brackets that come with it need serious work. They are of cheap aluminum, very thin, and the holes still had crazy burrs on it. i.e. rough finish. do yourself a favor and make your own using my measurements for the 'correct' fitment...Calin had some brackets made at a local machine shop that were of the same grade aluminum of the real brackets and they fit 10x better. plus more sturdy and it kept the leading edge of the diffuser rock solid after it was properly torqued down.
2. the diffuser body it self is pretty good for a replica.. mostly a single layer of CF ontop of several layers of FRP... just like the real one.. i put it up next to mine and the shape is pretty decent. the leading edge of the diffuser is slightly bent inward, this is due to their molding process that they used. it should be straight up, but instead it is bend inward (toward the exhaust) not too annoying but yet not the cleanest, may affect muffler clearance pedending on what exhaust you have.. Calin had Greddy Evo2 twin canisters and it fit fine. the main body is a dull finish, there is no clear coat. i would recommend a clear coat to 'protect' the finish.. and possibly prevent any yellowing. i dont know if they use an UV protectant inside the resin that was used.
3.vortex generators were slightly mis-shapen, i.e. they are not 100% symmetrical. Driver side was a little longer, slightly more fiberglass matting (i.e. heavier) that on the passenger side. mounting area where the three holes that attach to the main diffuser needed work, again this is due to the person making these things putting it out of the mold too fast as the mounting flange is slightly off, (and slightly thick with gelcoat/resin) you can't really tell unless it was off the car..
4. Z brackets are definitely not the best finish. they get the job done, it can't be seen, but when take it on/off as often as i do, a good fitting Z bracket is beneficial. i highly recommend getting this piece redone in a bent aluminum bracket to improve side to side rigidity and repeated install/de-install improvement. we had to do some serious pushing/pulling to get the mounting holes on the Z bracket and diffuser to line up correctly...
5. U bracket that is for mount the center of the diffuser is also not of the best finish. depending on where you place it on the rear bumper, it is SUPER difficult to get the mounting bolts through the holes. to get the nut to stay in place, i used some JBweld to hard mount the nut on the inside of the ubracket so that i could just concentrate on getting the bolt to mate up with it w/o having to hold the wrench in place.
6. hardware.. ditch the hardware that comes with it and get real Stainless steel bolts/nuts from mcmaster-carr or a legit hardware store.. the bolts that came with it were Zinc plated and were like 11mm or some off size. typical is m8 10mm head.. that is just my preference.. you can make due with what it came with. HOWEVER you will need two additional m8head lock nut or flange nuts to attach the aluminum brackets to the pre-existing studs that are on the car.. luckily i have a box full of misc hardware that i used.. the kit does not come with them, so you will need to get a pair to properly mount the brackets.
final thoughts: for $7xx, it offers an economical alternative. however installation would have been MUCH faster if the mounting solutions (Z,U, aluminum) brackets were made cleaner and to tighter specifications.. i.e. symmetrical.. it is obvious that who ever made the pieces were sloppy on the original mold. you will have to pre-mount these brackets as i'll be assuming each piece will be unique and mount differently for each instance.
1. the aluminum brackets that come with it need serious work. They are of cheap aluminum, very thin, and the holes still had crazy burrs on it. i.e. rough finish. do yourself a favor and make your own using my measurements for the 'correct' fitment...Calin had some brackets made at a local machine shop that were of the same grade aluminum of the real brackets and they fit 10x better. plus more sturdy and it kept the leading edge of the diffuser rock solid after it was properly torqued down.
2. the diffuser body it self is pretty good for a replica.. mostly a single layer of CF ontop of several layers of FRP... just like the real one.. i put it up next to mine and the shape is pretty decent. the leading edge of the diffuser is slightly bent inward, this is due to their molding process that they used. it should be straight up, but instead it is bend inward (toward the exhaust) not too annoying but yet not the cleanest, may affect muffler clearance pedending on what exhaust you have.. Calin had Greddy Evo2 twin canisters and it fit fine. the main body is a dull finish, there is no clear coat. i would recommend a clear coat to 'protect' the finish.. and possibly prevent any yellowing. i dont know if they use an UV protectant inside the resin that was used.
3.vortex generators were slightly mis-shapen, i.e. they are not 100% symmetrical. Driver side was a little longer, slightly more fiberglass matting (i.e. heavier) that on the passenger side. mounting area where the three holes that attach to the main diffuser needed work, again this is due to the person making these things putting it out of the mold too fast as the mounting flange is slightly off, (and slightly thick with gelcoat/resin) you can't really tell unless it was off the car..
4. Z brackets are definitely not the best finish. they get the job done, it can't be seen, but when take it on/off as often as i do, a good fitting Z bracket is beneficial. i highly recommend getting this piece redone in a bent aluminum bracket to improve side to side rigidity and repeated install/de-install improvement. we had to do some serious pushing/pulling to get the mounting holes on the Z bracket and diffuser to line up correctly...
5. U bracket that is for mount the center of the diffuser is also not of the best finish. depending on where you place it on the rear bumper, it is SUPER difficult to get the mounting bolts through the holes. to get the nut to stay in place, i used some JBweld to hard mount the nut on the inside of the ubracket so that i could just concentrate on getting the bolt to mate up with it w/o having to hold the wrench in place.
6. hardware.. ditch the hardware that comes with it and get real Stainless steel bolts/nuts from mcmaster-carr or a legit hardware store.. the bolts that came with it were Zinc plated and were like 11mm or some off size. typical is m8 10mm head.. that is just my preference.. you can make due with what it came with. HOWEVER you will need two additional m8head lock nut or flange nuts to attach the aluminum brackets to the pre-existing studs that are on the car.. luckily i have a box full of misc hardware that i used.. the kit does not come with them, so you will need to get a pair to properly mount the brackets.
final thoughts: for $7xx, it offers an economical alternative. however installation would have been MUCH faster if the mounting solutions (Z,U, aluminum) brackets were made cleaner and to tighter specifications.. i.e. symmetrical.. it is obvious that who ever made the pieces were sloppy on the original mold. you will have to pre-mount these brackets as i'll be assuming each piece will be unique and mount differently for each instance.
Last edited by Chebosto; 06-18-2010 at 07:20 AM.