cabin pressure? So like if you fart it'll have a red warning light up on the dash?

 

It's used in conjunction with an alarm system. It monitors the cabin pressure when the alarm is armed and when the pressure changes (in the case of a door being opened or a window being broken) it sounds the alarm.

 

well yeah I know, I just thought my comment would appeal more to the majority of the population

 

In for progress out of curiousness but I never saw this as an issue myself

 

Agree, this was a lame omission that I can't imagine being a huge cost savings. What's even worse is the 2008 Nismo (and imagine all 07-08 models) has an automatic dash dimming feature so the hardware is already in place! Not a huge deal to overcome, but something you'd expect standard on a 30k+ car.

 

dash dimming? like what it dims when it gets dark outside ? As in without any sort of input?

Unless you are talking about the headlight connected dimming (headlights come on, dash dims which is of course present in all the Z models).

Im gonna wire the crap out of this module to its fullest extent so i will take pics throughout. My other car has the headlights on with wipers as well so this module is pretty good for 34$.

I have an american Z so i will use its DRL feature as well for the small city lights in the front.

Ill keep you guys posted.

 

Umm... so whatever happened with this?

 

im picking up the module over thanksgiving weekend. I had it shipped to my friends place.

My car is stored for winter anyways so ill have plenty of time to install it and make a detailed DIY

Cheers
C

 

quick update

I have started putting together the circuit in a spare headlight switch.
The new switch will resemble the g35 controls with 4 settings

AUTO -- OFF -- SM -- LOW

I am currently working on adding the new connections to the green circuit board from the headlight switch to allow the auto setting to be selected. Making the switch **** turn to auto wasnt too difficult once everything was taken apart, there were a few plastic pieces that had to be melted inside the **** to allow it to travel beyond OFF.

I will attach more pics in a DIY thread, this is still in progress.

 

I forgot to mention, the switch will be using solid state relays to increase life span and make the connections the switch normally makes.

I will post up pics of the relays soon, they are actually voltage regulators wired for relay use.

I wanted to ask some of the members for input as well since i have a spare switch now.

Should i make it engage auto mode when set to OFF only?

Wiring option 1
OFF = lights are fully AUTO on/off once ignition is on and parking brake is down.


Wiring option 2
AUTO = auto mode for lights with parking brake down, ignition on
OFF = everything OFF
SM = auto mode off, side markers come on
LOW = auto mode off, low beam + sm on

OR option 3, external switch to engage AUTO mode which takes over any of the other modes so the switch can be at any setting at night and the lights will still be on.

What do you guys think would be more practical ?
In theory option 1 should solve everything since the whole idea is that you want to do as little as possible and have the lights come on and off on their own. However you can no longer have all lights off at night, so no more stealth mode

Im leaning towards option 1 since i can wire it internally anyways and make a blocker for the switch.

Hoping to see some input.

 

Any updates? I wanna add this to my Z too :^)

 

First off want to thank you for your post... was trying to do the same and came accross your post and worked like a charm.

But did notice that OFF and LOW produced the same result not really sure why. What I did I soldered 6 wires on the positions in your drawing you specified OFF, LOW, SM on the board and another set on the connector pins.

However not before tracing down all the routs myself (view attached picture), the yellow route does seem to haev soemthing to do with teh High Beam lights.

If I connect all the 6 corresponding wires the lights turn on, but as I said just connecting the SM and LOW wires produce the same result but looking at the board when light swith is in LOW position all tre contacts are engaged which does produce the same result as connecting all wires.

I would suggest using as thinn wires as you can as otherwise the wires will be pinched when routing them out of the switch. I used not the thinnest wires so had to use my dremel to make some more space.

Not sure if the combination switch reads this info differently but from what I can see all the functions are there:

Turn-L
Turn-R
LOW
SM
High-Beam (While holding)
High-Beam (Permanent)

All I am missing now are tre relays to hook upp to the illumination wire as the lights are turned on when key is in the "ON" positionand turned off during cranking. I guess one can use the IGN wire but then lights are on during cranking and on a weak battery one might regret that fact.

Again thank your for your help so I thought I would finsh the post and let everybody know it works as I could not find any follow-up How-To.

 

I need to make time to take mine apart and take some pics.

I used 3 sharp regulators to make a solid state relay for each setting. It needs 3 since the high beam wont work without the off slot position relay engaged.

My switch basically has a thin 8 in 1 cable that i got from an old usb mouse with super thin wires running into the switch.

Im glad others are trying this out, I'm always working on lighting projects of some sort for my car and others so I need to keep up with pics and a how to. Your pics look good. I will see the schematic as to why the off and low produce the same results.

 

Im sure you are right about the high beam and the OFF relay... I might be mistaken by I believe I tried all lighting settings in both configurations

SM + LOW

and

OFF + SM + LOW

I will double check again I might be wrong that the high beam worked when only having SM + LOW.

My next project is to create a AUTO TURN OFF TCS on car startup... plan is to using a timing relay hooked up to the ACC + ON wire, which would always reset the relay on CRANK. Then once time delay is expired relay engages and simulates pushing the TCS OFF button.

If you wonder why would one want this, simply because my car has over 600HP and a RaceLogic TCS which understands this... and OEM TCS doesnt!

Again wanna thank you for your help with this, long time been on the wish list as in Sweden it is mandatory to have lights 24/7. So switching the light switch every time is just a pain and many times one forgets and getting a ticket for that is no fun.

 

Lolz at this thread. This annoyed me for many years and when my car became a racecar I wired it so that the lights came on whenever the car was running.

A bit different though as I rewired my entire car and there was no stock wiring or relays left in the entire car.

 

I guess that sucks... as this was really a 20 min job if one knows exactly what to do!

Atleast you got really good at re-wiring...LOL

 

UPDATE
LinuxGlobal: You are correct all three need to be connected for lights with high beam to work as intended. However one could get away with using two relays instead of one for each, basically SM and LOW can be on same relay but the OFF has to be on its own otherwise the high beam does not work.

Just a little update, I am however running on three relays as this was tested after the fact I got all the hardware. So hopefully this helps to clear this up.

 

Lol. I did it to drop weight on the car since it was a racecar. You don't get a 350z down to 2, 650lbs with an LS1/TH400 swap without drastic measures like removing as much wiring as possible.

 

Yeah I guess that kind of diet requires drastic measures...