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i love it when a vendor calls someone out. why would he offer to help you if you are not buying his product.... he does it to make some money ya know
I havent bought anything from anyone on here, and i get lots of help...theres nothing wrong with giving advice when a question is asked, free of charge......in fact try charging everybody in life for every word and idea you tell them, let me no how that works out
first time vinyl wrapping, diy job.
Used Avery SW900.. not as sticky as 3m but very easy to install.
i ordered 12 yards and had to re order 3 more, so for cars doing a hood and aroof, youd best to orderbetween 15 and 20 yards.
Order from www.fellers.com it is by far the fastest and the cheapest.
All in all, i paid 400 dollars for my vinyl, and it could have been cheaper if i had added that final 3 yards in w the first order aas there is a qty discount over 10 yds.
Along w my hours of DIY work ( whiCH goes faster aND faster as you learn.. next time will be a snap).. this means i wrapped my car for 400 dollars using top of the line material.. THATS LESS THAN PLASTIDIP FOLKS.
Use primer on the edges and in valleys and make sure yo9u let it dry fully before installing vinyl over the primer.
Never stretch any vinyl over 20%.
Post ehat all the vinyl w a heat gun or torch to around 180 degrees ( if i recall correctly) to seat the vinyl.
keep your hands clean and prep the car very very well.
Install in a duist free environment, the vinvyl creates static when peeled off the backing and attracts dust particles.
Use knifeless tape and dont be afraid to make seams vs stretching too much.. youll get a better longer lasting finihsed product.
Use a smoothing glove on one hand.
snap the tip off your olfa blade often, they dull extremely fast.
The a pillars do NOT need to be removed, you do need a steady hand.
use magnet holders, for large pieces, fold the top down, cut backing, install, then stretch down and smooth out the bottom half of the door.
door jambs are easily done using mutliple seams and pieces.
again, seam work using knifelss tape.
fender flares and the like should be 85% installed and stretched while on the car as the car holds them tigh for you..
remove from the car. primer the bolt hole valleys and let dry, finish the panels and reinstall.
wrap the "holes" of the bumpers first and trim w a knife or with tape.
then wrap over the entire bumper and trim to match seams w a slight overlap using a knife or tape.
same for rear.. create your pocket and trim a seam using tape. then wrap over the entire thing and trim pocket w a slight overlap using knife or tape.
diffuser area was masked using knifeless tape again.
leave the car out in the sun afterwards for a bit to let it all set.
I never knew that cars could be wrapped till I was having my car worked on at Project X. The owner's car was cherry red and I asked where he had it painted. It was previously black before an accident. He said it was vinyl wrapped by Pro Vinyl, Inc. I would have never known.
I was quoted 3200.00 for a flawless, seemless wrap job at a local reputable place. I asked how much if I provided the material and he quoted $1800.00 in labor and 5 days. He also stated that they disassemble a lot of the vehicle, weather stripping, headlamps bumpers etc. He said its perfect when they're done.
Found some 3M 1080 wrap on ebay for $500-600 so lets just say $2400.00 for a flawless, seemless wrap job... Does that seem legit..?
I did my in 4D Carbon and it came out pretty good. I got a few compliments... I'm trying to get enough ***** and do my whole car in Matte Pearl. I also did my phone cover with some leftover scrap. You can see that the carbon affect is pretty cool. We will see....
Total cost of material.... $20
Did anybody use the 3m carbon fiber wrap on their roof? I have the black 3m wrap and it seems like a good quality but was thinking of doing the roof in carbon wrap to match other parts. Any pics and opinions on the 3m would be great. I have some made in china stuff it looks like carbon fiber you would see on a bikes handlebars not the big weaves you get on a hood.
None of the Carbon wrap looks real in my opinion, it just has the affect when hit by light. I wrapped a cheap dirt bike helmet with the 3M stuff and it came out pretty cool.
If I have minor blemishes with surface rust should I prime those areas with a rust inhibitor before wrapping? I have a few small scratches that are kinda ugly.
Body work needs to be near perfect or it will show through. Some people will notice, others won't. Just depends on your attention to details. I like my wraps perfect.
Can someone here (perhaps Don N) explain to me the difference between the 3M 2D,3D,4D and 5D? Maybe post some pictures indicating the differences???
I seen a guy around town and he told me it was the 4D and it looked stellar!
Is the 5D worth jumping up to? Is it much better? What the difference? Price?
Can someone here (perhaps Don N) explain to me the difference between the 3M 2D,3D,4D and 5D? Maybe post some pictures indicating the differences???
I seen a guy around town and he told me it was the 4D and it looked stellar!
Is the 5D worth jumping up to? Is it much better? What the difference? Price?
3M is a brand that manufactures pro grade car wrap vinyls. All the other 2d, 3d, 4d, 5d, 6d etc etc cf wraps are China made non branded. Adhesive falls apart easily, tacks up when it shouldn't, separates from the vinyl if you're re-positioning, does not conform to curves well when compared to pro grade vinyls.
05-13-2015, 06:48 AM
