can you tell me if this looks like something is going wrong with my r4 software ? here is a screen shot of me running through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear, maybe a little in 4th, couldn't remember, if you read my previous post, i am having trouble with the vortech as soon as my car gets to 4700-5000 rpm. but only at wide open throttle. or full boost.

 

How long have you had this problem? From day 1 or did it just start? Or, you knew you had a problem and just stayed below 4700 rpm's? I was perfectly happy with my Vortech SC performance until I went to 4700 rpm. Then it just lost power. Drove it for week, then finally put it on a dyno. The dyno showed the same thing. Checked all the hoses. Check all the wiring to and from the ECU. As I mentioned in a previous post, those two wires on the AUX fuel pump were crossed. Reversed the wires and the R4 program input began performing.

What does your dyno run look like? Can you post a pic?

 

jus started saturday, had it on the car for a week, the car ran fine until saturday morning, the only thing i have done is fix my heater by bleeding the heater hose, and mount the aem wideband a/f gauge, there is no possible way that if two of the wires are touching each other from the aem wideband that it would cause this to happen is there ? do the wires from the aem wideband go the the r4 software (ss box) or the ecu ?

 

Are you sure your belt is not slipping. I have seen it first hand on the dyno what a Small Amount of slippage will do to boost..

I am speaking of the main serpentine belt. Not the Vortech belt.

 

i really have no idea, how would i tell if that is what it is ?

 

on a side note, it only does this when moving, if im sitting in neutral and rev to redline, the car is fine,

 

When you pull up on the serpentine belt it should not have any more than ½ up and down play. If it does its too loose and needs to be tightened.

 

If you can rotate the "serpentine belt" 90 degrees, it is loose. I can turn mine about 45 degrees. The adjustment pulley on the cog belt should require force to turn by hand. Also, about 1/2" up and down play. Still would like to see some dyno graphs.

 

i was able to rotate the belt with a rachet , but was afraid to keep turning, i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? also, i saw on the aem wideband going around low 12's the closer to redline, but when it was about to hit full boose, same issue but on the wideband it jumped up to 14.5 or so,....

 

Can you let us see a screen shot of you fuel and timing settings under boost. Perhaps we can see something.

Also include what you have the options set for under settings..

Here is an example of what I am looking for:
www.dfwg35.com/maps.html
NOTE: DO NOT use my settings they are very aggressive and consider all my mods when created !!

 

Yes, that is the Aux pump fuse. If you pulled it and the car acted the same, I would think that it is a fuel system issue. Was the fuse blown? If not, do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

 

POWER and TORQUE lines look good on your dyno run. Good level fuel line. I might add some fuel with the R4 to get the fuel line down below 12 and closer to 11.5 starting at 3500 - 4000 rpm. What value is in those cells?

 

will get that up tonight.

 

here is a screen shot of all i could see in the r4 software, the first pic is of map A, the second pic is of map B, and you can see what the rest is. i have no idea how to work the r4 software so tell me if you see anything wrong here. thanks.

 

This is good info but two things.

1. We need to see the Boost and A/F from the "0" mark to say 11lbs (NOT the (–) stuff) - Scroll to the right on Map A & B

2. Unless I am mistaken the System Settings need to be set for:
Vacuum / Pressure - Programmable Signal Calibrator.

Please re-post the charts when you have time.

NOTE: You must VERIFY these settings EVERY time before you write to the ECU. They have a tendency to change and that will screw everything up.

Use my web site as an example of what to get:
http://www.dfwg35.com/maps.html

 

The A/F never reaches 12 and its almost pegged to 11.5 from 3200 to 5900 with only 2 slight bumps at 4250 and 5250. If I remember correctly the values range from the high 10's to the high 8's in a downward progression from 1psi. Map B will show 1 degree of timing pulled for each # of boost.

I really don't think the maps are going to help solve his issue since the car ran great for a week on that tune.

 

the reason the A/F was in the low 12's and moved up to 14.5 at full boost is you were not using the auxilary fuel pump since you pulled the fuse out ... not something you want to do on a regular basis

 

lorca,, it did this with the fuse in, possible that it did this because im not reaching full boost or not reaching full boost because of this. .. hope that makes sence.

 

why does my map B show zero's.

map a

map b

 

or maybe a kink in a hose ? where does the hose go from the ss box ? does it go to the aux fuel pump, if there is a kink in that, will it cause this issue ?