Wish we could filter the site out of this forum I petition this site to allow Peter ( APS ) to come back here if he even would. If the people "care about and love our cars" as much as I have heard expressed...shouldn't be a problem. Right? [/B][/QUOTE]

I second that motion!

 

thats true, but then again, still no blown engines

 

ill run some tests on this APS harness and see if there is more to it than meets the eye or if its simply a shielded cable to bypass the stock wiring.

 

I vote Charles to be the guinea pig

G

 

Wish we could filter the site out of this forum I petition this site to allow Peter ( APS ) to come back here if he even would. If the people "care about and love our cars" as much as I have heard expressed...shouldn't be a problem. Right?

I second that motion!






<-- 3rd

 

ok yea the signal wire is going into the unichip... i am not familiar with the unichip so i am not sure why they have it going into 2 pins of the unichip plug. the signal wire is the only one going into unichip plug, its spliced somewhere into 2 and goes into 2 seperate pins.

i am gonna go out on a limb and say that perhaps the only reason this goes into the unichip is to delay the signal to retard timing, but without ever having to put this car on a scope and figure out exactly how its working I am not 100% on that. To verify this easily I need a pinout for the Unichip... if you have one let me know.

But it does make me see why perhaps APS even had the crank trigger on a scope to begin with... if they needed to scope it to configure the unichip device to work with it in order to retard timing, and perhaps they just ran into this interferance issue... or maybe it was found in a witch-hunt... perhaps its all starting to fall into place... more research needs to be done.

Either way, ill get it figured out so you guys have a super easy solution and dont need to loose any sleep over this. im sure this is a real problem that needs attention or they wouldnt have bothered with it... so ill keep playing with this in the backround.

 

making insane power may not be a need to blow a motor. i believe some greddy cars have blow on stock boost and one or two stillen kits must be making 330hp or more hp and not blown.

 

Recent experience with my wifes 97 Altima is worthy to note here. This week car throws a CEL. The OBD says its a crank sensor. I replace the sensor and turn the light off. All's well. The noteworthy part is that the car still ran well but a little steering wheel vib in drive with brake on. Much smoother with new sensor..I gotta believe the ECU detected a slightly out of spec signal (looking for a solid signal) with little tolerance variation OR it throws a CEL because of the significance of the signal..Timing! I would expect 350z ECU's to have similar protection given it is a higher performing and much more sensitive to bad or erroneous crank signals..IMHO.

 

Charles, did you notice any diodes or anything else of that nature on the APS wire itself? You mentioned it has two pins....both of them are going into the Unichip?

I havent looked at my ECU lately, but do we have just one pin for the crank angle sensor input...or two?

 

the crank trigger has 3 wires... 2 of them go to the ECU plug as normal, then the middle pin would should be the signal wire is splut into 2 and goes into 2 pins at the unichip. I did not crack open the APS harness, just tested it with a multimeter.. if i had a unichip pinout I could figure the rest out.

 

I'm looking forward to this...

 

Charles if you have an ASP harness in hand etc, does APS ground the source , sink or both ends , or float the shield? Normally I would expect to ground only the source end of the new wire's shield. Grounding both ends could cause unwanted loop currents, and floating the shield ,without at least cap bypass to ground would prolly help very little. Just something to note for those who may want to fab their own trigger harness.

 

Try this: http://www.vishnutuning.com/files/Unichip_Inst.zip

 

Hey Guys

The AEM EMS manual also suggests shielding not only the crank angle sensor wire but also the cam position (PHASE) sensor wire as well.... I guess we have got nothing to lose by doing this extra bit as well.....

 

huh? is the AEM available for the Z now?

It makes sense that AEM would find this out also... they scope the crap out of these cars to get their EMS' to work on them.

Guys I am not an EE. however lucky for us I have a friend that is, and he is the most intelligent EE guy I have ever met. I will have him go over this with me to insure I am doing this right... and perhaps we will even stick a car on a scope and check it out for ourselves.

 

With Charles doing most of the leg work, I vote he assemble a nice little "kit" for us . . . at a reasonable price Similar to your EE friend, we're not tuners, so put it into layman terms for us

G

 

already workin on that. I got connectors already on the way for this as a start. On Monday I will talk to John (the EE guy) and have him go over with me the details on making sure to fix the problem as best as possible. He has done a lot of this type of stuff and scoped many cars and configured Motec EMS' on race cars and what not... he is simply amazing at it... cause not only is he extremely good EE, he builds cars... so he is the perfect guy to work with on this type of stuff. Ill go ahead and include the cam triggers also since the components to build these cables are cheap enough and the plug is the same.

 

Phunk, There are a lot of us out there who appreciate what you are trying to do. Thanks! Keep up the good work. Rich

 

+1!

 

I have a supplier in Houston that might be able to get us the shielded wire at cost to him if you end up wanting like a 500 ft spool. What gauge are the crank and cam sensor wires?