Crank angle sensor wire..MUST READ.
#42
I'm not having any issues yet, but just to be proactive I would like to do this also.
If it is going to be a plug & play....GREAT. Are we looking to ge a group buy on this ?
Thanks to everyone who has researched this issue.
If it is going to be a plug & play....GREAT. Are we looking to ge a group buy on this ?
Thanks to everyone who has researched this issue.
#43
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From: Marietta, GA
Originally posted by alphaz
I'm not having any issues yet, but just to be proactive I would like to do this also.
If it is going to be a plug & play....GREAT. Are we looking to ge a group buy on this ?
Thanks to everyone who has researched this issue.
I'm not having any issues yet, but just to be proactive I would like to do this also.
If it is going to be a plug & play....GREAT. Are we looking to ge a group buy on this ?
Thanks to everyone who has researched this issue.
#53
Isn't the issue here one of the many benefits attributed to grounding wire kits? Would simply adding a grounding kit correct the crank sensor wire problem? It would be great if this could be tested out as an alternative fix to the more difficult procedure of removing a wire going to the ECU and shielding it.
#54
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From: Marietta, GA
Originally posted by gersteinp
Isn't the issue here one of the many benefits attributed to grounding wire kits? Would simply adding a grounding kit correct the crank sensor wire problem? It would be great if this could be tested out as an alternative fix to the more difficult procedure of removing a wire going to the ECU and shielding it.
Isn't the issue here one of the many benefits attributed to grounding wire kits? Would simply adding a grounding kit correct the crank sensor wire problem? It would be great if this could be tested out as an alternative fix to the more difficult procedure of removing a wire going to the ECU and shielding it.
Since the fix is very easy to implement, and most likely, very inexpensive, it is worth doing.
Also, APS felt this i big enough issue to include the shielded cable in their kit.
#55
OK guys I just spend an hour on the phone with my friend who is a very experienced EE who also does engine management wiring for vehicles and what not.
I am going to use a different cable than APS does... hes got some mil-spec shielded stuff that he uses for all the crank triggers in the cars he does Motec in... He told me it is more effective to ground the shielding and im gonna go over there and he is gonna show me how to ground it... and we can just ground it to the mounting bolt for the sensor itself.
He said that stock wiring harness' are sometimes pretty crappy and for important stuff like this its not uncommon to get lots of interferance... he said its a very easy and inexpensive fix. I guess a lot of it can have to do with what exactly you are wiring into the car also... he suggested that the fact that APS is running the crank signal wire into the Unichip for timing changes alone could be the problem... and that it doesnt mean a stock 350z or one that has unchanged factory crank trigger wiring would have this problem... but its also not unlikely that they do.
He told me it would be easy for me to setup on of these cars on his scope so we could see it first hand... we may or may not do this. Its going to be inexpensive and I guess I will just put it together for you guys to make you lives easier, to help everyone get to know me, and just as a precaution for everyone. There is no promise this will save your engine, but I will make sure the product does what it is supposed to do.
Now we just need to wait for me to get the plugs here. THe rest is easy street.
I am going to use a different cable than APS does... hes got some mil-spec shielded stuff that he uses for all the crank triggers in the cars he does Motec in... He told me it is more effective to ground the shielding and im gonna go over there and he is gonna show me how to ground it... and we can just ground it to the mounting bolt for the sensor itself.
He said that stock wiring harness' are sometimes pretty crappy and for important stuff like this its not uncommon to get lots of interferance... he said its a very easy and inexpensive fix. I guess a lot of it can have to do with what exactly you are wiring into the car also... he suggested that the fact that APS is running the crank signal wire into the Unichip for timing changes alone could be the problem... and that it doesnt mean a stock 350z or one that has unchanged factory crank trigger wiring would have this problem... but its also not unlikely that they do.
He told me it would be easy for me to setup on of these cars on his scope so we could see it first hand... we may or may not do this. Its going to be inexpensive and I guess I will just put it together for you guys to make you lives easier, to help everyone get to know me, and just as a precaution for everyone. There is no promise this will save your engine, but I will make sure the product does what it is supposed to do.
Now we just need to wait for me to get the plugs here. THe rest is easy street.
Last edited by phunk; 01-04-2005 at 12:35 PM.
#58
On a separate wiring issue, has anyone checked their codes and seen a knock sensor code? It doesn't trigger the CEL, I only found it because I was clearing a the light for something else a while back and I checked again later and the code was back but no CEL. The code says it is for unusually high voltage, I was getting a new knock sensor to replace it when I did the fuel return system just in case it was the sensor but now with all of the talk on wiring I wander it that is it, specially since it probably has renedered the J&S knock sensor retard useless.
The code was there before TT install.
The code was there before TT install.
#59
Yea APS says they are gonna publish something on their website about it on the 17th.
I think I might go ahead and have my buddy come over here so we can put a Z on a scope on the dyno. This really isnt a complicated matter. If we see noise, then we will just run a shielded cable and chances are it will fix the problem... but only one way to find out.
I think I might go ahead and have my buddy come over here so we can put a Z on a scope on the dyno. This really isnt a complicated matter. If we see noise, then we will just run a shielded cable and chances are it will fix the problem... but only one way to find out.