Yes you can use any tuning module for this kit.

 

Thanks for confirming. Now, what about the install, do you have any information about time right now or would it all be speculation. Another question, where could we get this kit?

 

We deal directly with the public so you could get the kit directly from us. Depending on level of mechanicl skill installation time hovers around 30 hours.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

To add to Alberts statement........Actually the 321SS is a better material then cast iron by every means.It can tolerate temperature upto 2250F.It retains heat like no other metal except for inconel and it is the choice material to use when building turbo exhaust manifolds.The headers are also equal length which means it prevents the exhaust pulses from colliding inside the runners and causing reversion which could lead to preigniton and higher EGTs.

 

You might not make more power with external wastegates but you will have better boost control since their are two ports that help to regulate boost instead of one port on internal wastegates.On high horsepower applications, the external wastegates will allow increased flow where internal wastegates would be overwhelmed and cause overboosting,surging,etc.....

 

Do you have a link to support this statement? Even if true, heat rention would depend on the thickness of the walls, not just the material used. How thick are the walls of this manifold? How thick are the flanges?

In regards to cracking, even if replaced under warranty, the labor and hassle to remove them is HUGE. On a Honda, its a 1 hour job. On a 350Z, it is a 10 hour job....at least for your average mechanic.

 

http://burnsstainless.com/TechArticl...s_article.html


Here is a link about 321SS, 304SS and other materials that are used in building headers.Our headers are made out of a 16 gauge 321SS tube.The flanges are 304SS and are 1/2" thick.All of our welding is back purged and we use the appropriate filler rod.

 

[In short no. Water cooling the turbos bearing housing is the Ultimate solution for all high performance Gasoline turbochargers (this is the exact reason why all Garrett GT series turbos utilise water cooled bearing housings) this eliminates the need to idle down the turbochargers as the engine coolant continues to thermo syphon via the turbochargers after engine shut down, it's all good.

Thanks

Peter [/B][/QUOTE]



I would have to disagree with you.Watercooled turbos will not prevent the bearing sections from coking if the car is shutdown abruptly.I have plenty of watercooeld turbos sitting here with bearing housings that are "coked" up with oil.The watercooling didnt save them:^( A turbo timer will help becasue it allows the oil temoperatures to cool down significantly to prevent coking from occuring altogether.Dont get me wrong I am a big fan of watercooled turbos but it is not a solution for the problem that you were referring too.

 

I would have to disagree with you.Watercooled turbos will not prevent the bearing sections from coking if the car is shutdown abruptly.I have plenty of watercooeld turbos sitting here with bearing housings that are "coked" up with oil.The watercooling didnt save them:^( A turbo timer will help becasue it allows the oil temoperatures to cool down significantly to prevent coking from occuring altogether.Dont get me wrong I am a big fan of watercooled turbos but it is not a solution for the problem that you were referring too. [/B][/QUOTE]

Were these turbos fed Dino or a good synth motor oil?
Water cooling plus a good Sythetic such as Amsoil, Redline, RP etc
should virtually eliminate the coking hazard.

 

with modern ball bearing tubos, regardless of cool down techniques..chances of ruining a turbo due to coking is minimal...especially if running synethetic. Hell, even the primitive T3/T4 or Mits turbos in the Greddy kit should be good for 100K miles...if decent precautions are maintained.

Thanks for the link, but it didnt mention the heat-retention capabilities of cast iron in comparison to 321 SS. I have no doubt that 321SS is the best application when choosing a tubular steel manifold, but I am not convinced it is better than cast iron in terms of heat retention, or strength.

To me...the biggest risk with tubular steel is the risk of cracking. PE manifolds were cracking left and right, and those things were a work of art. not certain what material they used though.

 

I will see if I can find another link for you.I seriuosly doubt that PE was using anything other then 304SS.Most companies do not want to incur the higher price of using 321SS.

 

http://www.intensepower.com/comsoonpowen.html

You're right, the PE kit is constructed with 304SS not 321SS.

 

Cracked Greddy Manifold

 

I guess supporting the turbo is the key...

 

hey Guys, I have their TT setup on my 5AT G35. Its running great and im getting great numbers. I have had it for almost a year now and I have NOT blown. I am very impressed with the response, especially on a heavy car and with it being a 5AT. The APS tt is great too but honestly I dont know much about it. If you do have any questions, call TIM at SPEED FORCE RACING. Hes the actual engineer of the kit and builds all the parts from scratch. They have a great facility and theyve built many cars which have made it into a lotta magazines. Their actually in this months issue of Turbo Magazine towards the end, they got a big article of a black Supra they did. Anyway, I am very happy with the kit and if I had to do it all over again, I would. I am at 410.8 RWHP right now on stock internals. We def could have gotten bigger numbers but that wouldnt be good and safe for the engine and its life span. email me at Kamal34@yahoo.com if you got any questions about how the kits running but the mechanics, email or call TIM at speed force cause no one will know the kit better than him. He makes em.... If your in the LA area, hit me up and I will be more than happy to show you the car and even give you a ride.

 

boost we're running on my car right now is 7 psi. Not bad hitting 410.8 at only 7.2 PSI huh..? Sorry the dyno is in Adobe format. How the hell do I change it into a Jpeg or a Jif or watever? I can email it to whoever wants to see. Email me and Ill send it to you right away. If not that then someone PLEEEEZ tell me how to convert it into a diff format!

 

On your arrangement are you
a) running catless?
b) atmospheric waste gate venting (aka. WG not plumbed back into the exhaust)?

Thanx

 

The answer to your questions are yes and yes for both. I am catless and have atmospheric waste gate venting...

 

Whats SSRs website? Does this kit come with a reflash, piggyback, or standalone? Lifetime warranty is great!! But what is the price and dealers in the SoCal area? Thanks for the answers.