mazzoo

iTrader: (1)

I just got my block back from AEBS with their 8.5:1 stroker kit. I don't think Gurgen had the stroker kit did he? Either way this makes me feel sick. I really hope you get your car back up and running soon and I hope AEBS gives you any help you need. I had AEBS assemble the lower end of the motor just for this reason. If something goes wrong with the motor and it has something to do with the lower end they cannot say it was put together wrong because they put it together. The also balanced the block before sending it back to me.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

mazzoo: did you get the copper o-ring done at the top of the cylinder walls? i am in the same boat as you... hoping his problem isnt a sunk sleeve cause i got the same sleeves!

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

They do stand behind the machine work, that's it. But like it's been offered here, technically they CAN be sued for all of the labor, in fact it would probably be a fairly easy case.

If it is in fact a sunk sleeve, and at this point my gut feeling is that it's not, then I would definitely want tthem to refund the money i paid to them, and give me a different block, and would not be doing sleeves again. Just not worth the trouble. First let's find out if it is in fact an AEBS problem....

Pretty doubtful, especially knowing that a very good specialist has worked on it...
Yes, but the whole question is that it was NOT done correctly if it does in fact sink.
This is a very good point, and one of disagreement between AEBS and Darton's machine guy. AEBS machines the block flat after pressing in the sleeves, while Darton (any others I presume) does stick the sleeves .005" up from the surface of the block.

Planning to do it today. Thanks...

Actually Steve, my sinkign IS unconfirmed, but there is ANOTHER (and ONLY as far as we know) sinking incident on the VQ, Greddy project car. The sleev has been admitted to having sunk .003", and the coolant mixed with oil to yield the characteristic chocolte milk slush... I do NOT have that here, the only symtom I get is a very slow seeping of air into the cooling system, normal coolant and oil appearance, no more overheating (since swappign out the thermostat - which stopped the overheating from occuring). the leak is SO minor that a combustion leak tester (aka block tester) does not even detect it.

Mazzo, I think I remember from the pics that you DID do the copper o-rings. I went with the advice of my engine builder and did NOT do them, as he said that it will keep the stock head gasket orings from sealing. But you are usign the cometic gasket, which maybe different. We'll see...

---

Well, as I alluded to above, when I first started to have the overheating, I bled the cooling system over a dozen times (really!), and the car would invariably overheat after at most 30 minutes of driving. After swappign out the thermostat, it stopped from overheating, yet the evidence of a head gasket leak is unmistakeable. What do you make of this? Was swapping of the thermostat coincidental with the head gasket sealing up a bit? Because I did test the thermostat after removal in boiling water, and it DOES open and close properly. Do you see why I have been so perplexed for the last 2 months?

Any ideas?

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

Lets wait till we know exactly what the issue is before we start pointing fingers.

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

Well...ya... that's why I am being careful to lay the facts out as they are, no more, no less.

Enron Exec

Not again!

I cant believe your streak of ill luck Gurgen. Im very sorry for you man. With all that you have invested in your car, it should be running like a dream.

What is the rate of coolant you are displacing from the motor? Are we talking milliliters or closer to a liter over a few weeks? If you where to drive the car on a hot day for a long time, and then really push her, do you think you will get even more coolant comming out of the reservoir? Is there anyway you could find someone with one of those probe cameras on a wire so you could drop it into your cylinders for a closer inspection?

At the very least, please dont call it quits. Not after all you have been through.

Chebosto

iTrader: (43)

omg.... another ONE????!!

Gurgen!!!! you need to consult an exorcist to remove the demons outta that car!!!

i feel for you, seriously i do. this can't be right..

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

I know your being careful, I was refering to everyone who wasnt.

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

Well... on a 396mile drive up from LA to SF, i displpaced about 1/2 reservoir -worth (I would guess 300ml?). Today, on the way back from SF to LA to drop off the car, thelevel rose VERY little, with the temps steady at 85 deg C - perfect! I think that I maybe burning off coolant... what's funny is that the situation seems to be getting a bit better/benign with time in the last few weeks (especially with the new radiator). But, it is unmistakable that the leakdown is 90% and that there is water getting into the chamber.

MOTOP

iTrader: (1)

Gurgen,

Good to hear you got to LA safely. It must have been a torture to drive your car on I-5 and not being able to boost.

AznIceRckt

Hey Gurgen, I'm sure you know as much as anyone almost the trials and tribulations of boost on a VQ, even with internals. i'm having trouble deciding which route to go...n/a, F/I vq35, RB engine swap, or new car. can you maybe give a rough estimate of your total investment so far? including all the engine rebuilds, the TT Kit, labor, for everything. even include your time and "pain".

it has to be atleast 20k, or higher? i want extra power, but i don't know if I want it at such a high cost.

phil

Brandon@Forged

azinrckt...how much power are you wanting?

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

My thoughts exactly... BTW...the car held up great, in fact, the reservoir coolant level went up only slightly, not like before... So, not sure there, if it's burnign up the coolant and self-bleeding at the same time, or ?

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

Hmm.. ok... Let me say the following, I am DEFINITELY way above 20K on this car, but i would say close to 10 were wasted on numerous engine swaps.. which I guess one can avoid with forward knowledge.. If I were to do everything over again, I would spend FAR less, I mean FAR FAR less , and do it right... starting of course with 6MT car, not a 5AT (just my opinion, no flaming please).

If I were you, I would get the APS kit, and if you wish for EXTRA safety, just take it into a Unichip dealer (or send it off to them) and have them turn down the boost a bit.. I do believe that there is nothign out there like APS, and it's their thorough testing that will afford you the financial savings as well as reliability. However, as a disclaimer, it will take a litte while longer , say another year, for us to truly ascertain the long term effects of properly tuned 400whp on the engine...

IMO, it is ALL about FI, biggest bang for your buck, really... I would definitely not do an RB swap, as it is all unknown territory and will become a money pit (due to the massive R&D costs to you the pioneer).