Very slight whistle at idle, nothing like the shrill i had with the maxflow. When it blows off, man its nice, not that stuttering the maxflow had.

 

did you remove the center spring ? I did on mine but havent installed yet . Im not sure if I will at all . The valve is smaller and it looks like it may not flow as much air

 

No i didnt, when i pushed on the type s vs the maxflow, it was easier to depress the greddy with both springs. The overall diameter of the valve is smaller, but man that sucker blows off with a sweet vengence. I think you should install it, you wont be disappointed.

 

Hey boog, i installed the r4 tonight with the original file from vortech. Everything wrote to the ecu well, but when i opened a new customer and read the ecu after installing the original file i noticed that on one of the output setting read additional injector controller instead of programmable signal calibrator. What gives, all the maps look like the original, and when i open the original file programmable signal calibrator is selected. Weird.

 

Seems that happens alot when first openning and reading the ECU . After it happened to me , and the fuel pump didnt come on . I checked my settings every time I wrote a new map for quite a few times

 

What settings would cause the fuel pump not to come on. I want to know what to look for. TIA

 

Also, what is the best way to check existing r4 settings? Do i create a new customer and then read ecu? Or do i just connect to the ecu and then load the vortech supplied file? Its a little tricky. Thanks again.

 

you can go to www.splitsec.com and read and download the ...U-tune file . It will tell you most every thing you need to know

 

Best way to check is to make a copy of your site file and rename it. Then open it. This will keep all of your settings in check. Then read from ECU in the fuel/timing map section. I usually keep a bunch of maps, and name them by date or event I'm at. I change stuff around all the time though. I also keep a 93 octane map and a 110 octane map.

 

gspot...how much timing you pulling with the 110 map ? Im going to do the same thing

 

I pull about 4 degres at 8psi. I usually auto-fill 1 degree at 3.5psi by 5 degrees at 9psi. Boog you shouldn't have to retard any timing with a built motor, especially with a s/c. You need to get the formula for dynamic compression. It will allow you to calculate your compression ratio vs. boost vs. octane rating. Yours will probably work out to no timing retard needed. I had someone do the calculations for me, but never got the formula.

 

do you know who has the formula ? or where to get it ?

 

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm

Check here...this might help or get your started.