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Old 05-08-2005, 05:01 PM
  #21  
Machupo
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Originally Posted by Machupo
yeah, that's total BS -- if you ordered pauter and they sent carrillo, what's to say that they didn't get the dish wrong or overbore size wrong?

i would be extremely wary of running anything i didn't specifically order in my engine -- and make them pay return shipping as well !!!
+1 It's a basic principle matter... it's the wrong part, period!
Old 05-08-2005, 09:00 PM
  #22  
350zDCalb
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Originally Posted by cjb80
I talked to corrillo on the phone they said they have A beam rods running in 4 cylinder motors making over 900 hp. k.
right, you think they would tell you their new product is not able to hang with all of the other popular rods out there?

is their 900hp 4 banger a daily driver? just curious...but if you want to test their scrawny a-beams and let us know hoe it goes, be my guest...the h beams visually tell the story- much stronger design

again, when building a high hp motor, there is no such thing as overkill

just my $.02

TODD
Old 05-09-2005, 08:21 AM
  #23  
Sharif@Forged
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Although your current goals are 450whp, most people will eventually feel the need for more boost and more power. If changing rods was an easy swap, I would say go for it. But given the very high cost of removing and tearing down your motor, and swapping rods, you REALLY should consider a better rod for higher WHP applications. The Carillo H Beam or Pauter are the only way to go, IMHO. Be patient, and do the right thing, and you will be rewarded for your wait.

Let me know if I can help.
Old 05-09-2005, 03:37 PM
  #24  
weslutes
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O.K. I received the company's # from a good friend. The guy told me the Pauters were on the shelf. I ordered Pauter. Two weeks go by, I gave him a call & he says the Pauters will be another 2 weeks.That is when he mentioned the Carrillo & I said stick w/ Pauter. Then I received the box 3 days later w/ Carrillo.
Pretty fu(ked but what ever. If I needed the parts now, I'd be pissed. The engine build date is in over a month, so this matter should be fixed by then.
I've decided to send them back.
Sharif,you'll be gettin a call once I have my cash back
Old 05-09-2005, 03:47 PM
  #25  
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Great..hope I can help!
Old 05-09-2005, 04:20 PM
  #26  
Gman2004
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Good for you man! I guess Todd slapping you through the computer finally brought you to your senses...lol
Old 05-09-2005, 05:04 PM
  #27  
350zDCalb
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Good for you man! I guess Todd slapping you through the computer finally brought you to your senses...lol
haha

WESLUTES:

please know, all of my contribution to this topic was done with your best interests in mind...i was so harse with my comments, because i went through a VERY SIMILAR ordeel...i went back and forth, thinking i would settle with the weaker rods for the sake of convenience and my engine build timeline...

looking back now, i'm so glad i didn't settle,,just didn't want a fellow FI Z owner to make a mistake that he would regret and I could have possibly prevented!
Old 05-12-2005, 09:40 AM
  #28  
AxionF117
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He said he wanted around 500rwhp why would he need H-beam rods, he doesn't. Your just listening to dealers who will sell you the H-beam rods because they are what another $400-500 on top of the A-beams

Originally Posted by cloudy
Are you kidding me? That was just stupid man.... So your telling me that you should buy the weaker rod because you are not useing it to its max yet? What if he decides to go more? And then he has to buy new rods and install them.... Why not just get the good ones while hes doing all the trouble?
Old 05-12-2005, 09:43 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AxionF117
He said he wanted around 500rwhp why would he need H-beam rods, he doesn't. Your just listening to dealers who will sell you the H-beam rods because they are what another $400-500 on top of the A-beams
Think of that extra $400-$500 as extra insurance they are not going to break or bend any rods. $400-$500 is a lot cheaper than having to buy more rods and paying the labor to have the work done again.
Old 05-12-2005, 03:26 PM
  #30  
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The thing is, he paid for the Pauter, they just shipped him the Carrillos, so why should he pay Pauter H-beam price for Carrillo A-beam?
Old 05-12-2005, 04:25 PM
  #31  
weslutes
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So the Carrillo rods are shipped back & I'm waiting for the $$ to be put back in my account.
I went to my machinist & schedueled my appointment for around the 16 of next month. While I was at the machine shop,I had a long & detailed discussion about a few different brands of rods he personally had worked with. This guy has tons of experience upgrading internals & headwork on STI's & Evo's. He said that the Crower rods have been the most reliable, & the Pauters are usually the rods that brake on those cars. I told him I was going to order the Pauters & he insisted that I buy the Crowers. The good thing is that I can get the Crowers for less than $900 from a friend. The bad thing is that I have to have the block etched just a little for those beefy Crowers to fit which will cost $100. Still, cheaper and stronger than the Carrillo & Pauter rods.
Hey,are the Pauter rods A beams?

Oh, thanks for nocking some sense into me
Old 05-12-2005, 04:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by weslutes
So the Carrillo rods are shipped back & I'm waiting for the $$ to be put back in my account.
I went to my machinist & schedueled my appointment for around the 16 of next month. While I was at the machine shop,I had a long & detailed discussion about a few different brands of rods he personally had worked with. This guy has tons of experience upgrading internals & headwork on STI's & Evo's. He said that the Crower rods have been the most reliable, & the Pauters are usually the rods that brake on those cars. I told him I was going to order the Pauters & he insisted that I buy the Crowers. The good thing is that I can get the Crowers for less than $900 from a friend. The bad thing is that I have to have the block etched just a little for those beefy Crowers to fit which will cost $100. Still, cheaper and stronger than the Carrillo & Pauter rods.
Hey,are the Pauter rods A beams?

Oh, thanks for nocking some sense into me
The Pauter rods are h beams....
Old 05-12-2005, 05:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by weslutes
the Pauters are usually the rods that brake on those cars. I told him I was going to order the Pauters & he insisted that I buy the Crowers. The good thing is that I can get the Crowers for less than $900 from a friend. The bad thing is that I have to have the block etched just a little for those beefy Crowers to fit which will cost $100. Still, cheaper and stronger than the Carrillo & Pauter rods.
Hey,are the Pauter rods A beams?

Oh, thanks for nocking some sense into me
maybe they break on those cars...look at a pauter h beam rod for a 350z..they are not a weak design..good luck breaking one!
that is just absurd
Old 05-12-2005, 07:26 PM
  #34  
Sharif@Forged
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Originally Posted by weslutes
So the Carrillo rods are shipped back & I'm waiting for the $$ to be put back in my account.
I went to my machinist & schedueled my appointment for around the 16 of next month. While I was at the machine shop,I had a long & detailed discussion about a few different brands of rods he personally had worked with. This guy has tons of experience upgrading internals & headwork on STI's & Evo's. He said that the Crower rods have been the most reliable, & the Pauters are usually the rods that brake on those cars. I told him I was going to order the Pauters & he insisted that I buy the Crowers. The good thing is that I can get the Crowers for less than $900 from a friend. The bad thing is that I have to have the block etched just a little for those beefy Crowers to fit which will cost $100. Still, cheaper and stronger than the Carrillo & Pauter rods.
Hey,are the Pauter rods A beams?

Oh, thanks for nocking some sense into me
Everyone has their own opinion on rods. I will tell you that the Pauter rods are at a similiar strength level to H-Beam Carillo, and Crower. Unless you do several scientific tests on the rods, there is no way to know for sure which one is stronger. The ONLY way you are going to break a Pauter rod is by overevving the motor and tearing it up....and even in that case, its more likely you will float a valve or blow a headgasket before that happenes. They just wont break. Believe me, your pistons will break well before a Pauter rod will let go.

More than 75 people hav installed Pauter rods on high HP VQ35's, and not one person, to my knowledge, has broken a Pauter rod. Food for thought.

And by the way, dealers actually make very similar margins on both the A-Beams and H-Beams...so even though one is more expensive, it doesnt mean we are making more money on them. Typically, in this business, the higher end product actually have lower margins.
Old 02-19-2006, 09:05 AM
  #35  
rb26ina240
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Originally Posted by AxionF117
why would you need H-Beam rods on a 450hp motor? Its complete overkill.
its not just about how much hp they can take. its also about how long they last. if you beat on your motor or over rev it aweaker rod will fail. its the best one time investment you will need to make for your motor(pay now or pay later). bottom line if your not using carrillo h beam your a newbee to the import industry. if i was trying to make a profit i would sell you another rod. if i was building your motor carrillo h beam only.

Last edited by rb26ina240; 02-19-2006 at 09:18 AM.
Old 02-19-2006, 09:40 PM
  #36  
XBS
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Just get some Eagle H Beam rods from Shariff and be done with it
Old 02-20-2006, 12:53 PM
  #37  
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How about for your first post you start your own thread instead of bringing one back that's almost a year old now.
Old 02-20-2006, 12:56 PM
  #38  
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Oh ****, i didnt even notice how old this thread is! lol
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