I agree with Adam here on the S/C vs. TT/ST thing. Remember it's that brutish low-end torque that's snapping our rods! It will be interesting to see how the ST systems play out. Can you adjust a low boost and high boost? So it won't open passed 4 psi until 3500rpms for instance?

 

Should we take you off the APS GB list? I thought you were going APS?

 

I too have the kit on the way, but I am going to be honest here. I thought this kit would produce more power. T-netics claims 386 or close to it, Turbo Magazine dynoed it at 365, and now I see 346? I meen dont get me wrong I think 346 is still respectable but 20 less than whp than another.....hmmm? Does the car have a boost gauge? What was the gauge showing? Does alttitude affect the boost as well as the hp? For example if the kit puts out 8 psi at see level does it still put out 8 psi at 5500 feet above sea level? Sorry for all the questions just curious/concerned.

 

Nope at that altitude that kit is only pushing 6-7 PSI as altitude does affect boost. It also affects power numbers. Someone in this thread stated stock Zs were making 210 RWHP stock. Thats 30 less then mine stock...

 

Like I say guys, a little more tweaking on the tune, and a simple exhaust upgrade outta wake this car up. We're gonna massage it a little today, we should see 360 horse

 

Not really, thats what correction factors are for. We usually see the same if not exactly the same SAE corrected numbers as anyone else. Our actual numbers are lower but we don't post those often. Altitude doesn't usually effect boost. At least not enough for us.

 

I understand you can put other bolt ons on the car and play with a piggy back or what have you but I am just talking about right out of the box and on the car no tweeking what so ever. So if it is only pushing 6-7 psi, how much more can you realistically excpect out of 1 psi? Sorry for the questions....learning as I go.

 

Thats funny cause I have seen it happen for other high altitude cars on boost. They usually get less boost then others when run without a boost controller... Maybe I'm wrong...

 

Im not to knowledgable when it comes to turbos or engines for that matter, but speaking from a guy that lives in the same area as Tripp at speed dreams, my NA car is slow here. Ive never dynoed it but just driving around I can tell. I can floor it on wet pavement and not get the wheels to spin unless I dropped the clutch. WHen I drove to Lousiana, my car was unbelievble. Had to watch my foot as I lost traction numerous times there on dry roads. Wish I lived at sealevel, if only for the HP gains. lol BEN

 

WRT :"Everything on the car is OEM including the plenum minus the kit and tune. " I doubt this to be a 100% statement, you are "not" running OEM CATs or CATS of any type.

Does you Vortech car have CATs or not? Not that I'm a Vortech lover, just wondering how apple to orange the comparo is.

 

Two things here, cars loose power at elevation no matter what. An NA car will suffer as well as a turbo car, although maybe not quite as much. When we dyno, we use the SAE correction standard to compare to everyone elses. So in this case, elevation was not an issue because the power was corrected for sea level.

Now all things being equal, your boost guage will be referenced to atmosphere. In other words, an analog guage at sea level will read 0 as well as the same guage at elevation. With a 9PSI kit you will still see 9PSI 'normally' however maybe only 80% of it is effective PSI. So at sea level you may gain 100 horse actual, but up here only 80 horse actual. Either way, with a dyno it should be corrected. With the efficiency of turbos and blowers recently, this hasn't been as much of a problem.

 

then I guess the question is how much boost are you seeing at WOT?

 

I still have questions but tell me(us) how it rides!! Does it plant you in the seat or what?

 

just a noob question about FI, if i choose to get any types of FI, can i be 99.9% safe from detonation if i tune it below the recommended psi? say like 5-5.5 when it recommends 6? and using a relatively conservative tune? and then when i have more funds forge the motor then up the psi and have a more aggresive tune? sorry for the hijacking

 

BTW 1 pound of boost is a big deal, it's usually about 20 hp for each pound. For example, if you are getting 320 at 6 psi, you should get 340 at 7 and 360 at 8 psi. Now this is not a golden rule for every kit, they are all different, but it does apply.

For a lot of the people exclaiming their dissapointment with 340hp at the wheels, I would like to ask if they have ever driven anything that got 340 at the wheels. That is a lot of power, more than you will use in most day to day situations (or any situation). For me finding any place (while staying safe) where I can push the car is difficult, even if its just a quick run to 80 on the on ramp.

 

Agreed. My car is a bit higher than that and its border line retarded for me to get on it anywhere unless its 2:00 AM and the freeway is empty...

 

MIA, I watched a few of your videos (thanks for posting them BTW) and I think our cars are actually very similar in performance. I know it's a little bit **** retentive but I timed your shifts when you were flooring it and I was very similar.

I know I love my set up and I can see why you love yours, as I said before - the more options for the Z the better.

 

I was happy to make them....I agree that every F/I kit has its place. Everyone has their own preference and that is totally cool. Its too bad theres not more F/I Zs in SD. It'd be fun to line them all up together and just run it and see what happens...

 

**** Ya! This thing pulls hard.
ZO6

 

Ya I think so, that's a good idea. Power and safety should be controlled with boost, lower timing, and more fuel.