Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

I have not even started and I already have problems. I am preparing everything for the few days of install and getting everything organized. One of the things I decided to do was doing everything that did not require me to work on the car, things I could prepare in advance. One of these things is the Fuel Pressure Regulator setup, as described in step 40 of the install manual. Here is a diagram of the Fuel Pressure Regulator:



The manual goes like this:

"Attach the bracket (Item 179) to the end of the housing (Item 176), using two hex head bolts (Item 182). Install the three hose barbs (Item 177) into the regulator housing (Item 176), using Loctite thread sealer. Apply rubber grease or Vaseline to the ‘O’ ring on the regulator and install the fuel pressure regulator (Item 175) into the housing (Item 176) and retain with the circlip (Item 178). Attach the bracket (Item 179) to the side of the housing (Item 176), using two hex head bolts (Item 182). "

My problem is that the three hose barbs (Item 177) do not fit into the regulator housing (Item 176)!!! I tried, but I also started to damage the threads of the regulator housing. Before going any further, I decided to see what could be done.I've already spent 1/2 day running around to find a solution for this, but to no avail. What am I supposed to do now? The fitting really are too big for the holes, even though the threads seem to be the same. The manual says the threads are 1/4" BSPT. Is this right?

Did anyone encounter this problem?

Thanks for any help.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

On mine, the hole in the middle fit just fine, but the outside two were tight like you mentioned. I just put thread sealer on it like they said and tightened until it felt tight but not enough to damage the regulator. As long as they're tight and can't leak I don't see a problem with them not going in all the way.

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

I was also able to fit the one in the middle (VERY tight), but the two on the side are a problem. I can only do one thread by hand before I need a tool, then I can do another thread, but that's it. After removing the fitting (only two threads), the threads on the housing are starting to get damaged. I know I will destroy it if I continue. That's not normal!

I already tried to re-die the fitting, but I don't have that die size and I can't find one to buy.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

well mine went on a little further than yours on the sides, and the one in the middle fit perfectly. On the sides, mine are probably 1/3 of the way in maybe? All i know is that they are NOT coming off, they shouldn't leak due to the sealer, and there is no visable damage to the regulator; I didn't do it THAT tight, but tight enough. PM Peter; he's good about helping us APS customers out pretty quick.

zman2

iTrader: (12)

Try email to APS:

info@************************

one3502nv

iTrader: (1)

Yes, we had started about 2 threads before there is considerable resistance. I believe we went to 45ft-lbs on them which feels very tight. Double check with APS before doing this. The sealer is very important, make sure it is the right one you are using. The threads are a type of pipe thread and this is how they go together. The fittings were specifically machined for this application, do not try to substitute new fittings, as they have a much smaller internal diameter and will restrict fuel flow. The fittings are steel and the housing is aluminum, so taking the fittings in and out will start to damage the regulator housing due to galling. Just put the right sealer on there run them in to the right torque and allow adequate time for the sealer to harden before applying fuel pressure. We even used a torch to quicken the drying time for the sealer. Make sure you put the bolts in for the bracket as well, since I don’t believe you can turn them after the fitting is in. Or you can replace those with some allen head and install them after the fittings are tightened. Make sure you use a vice to hold the housing and a torque wrench to get the correct torque. We could not believe the torque required to install these by hand and had to put a wrench on to get a few more turns before getting the right number. Also the instructions should be updated, but do not over tighten the bolts to the top of the fuel tank, especially the ones that are longer to mount the regulator with. Originally we put holes in the fuel tank this way and you do not want to go there. Just verify that the bolts are the corrected length especially if you have a first run kit.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!!!

Lorca@Z1

Careful with the O-ring, the sharp edge of the housing has damaged many and it is difficult to tell it has been damaged once it is in there.

one3502nv

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Lorca@Z1]Careful with the O-ring, the sharp edge of the housing has damaged many and it is difficult to tell it has been damaged once it is in there.[/QUOTE
Also, the factory manual also says to replace the O-ring that seals the tank.. You can pick it up at the dealer for about $5....

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I hope this helps others too. They were really abnormally tight, I knew I would've damaged the housing. I finally had to go to a machine shop and they re-tapped the housing. They did it for free in exchange of a test drive when my car is ready. :-D It is now perfect, I was able to screw both side fittings about 3/4 all the way. I used thread sealer and torqued them both to 60ft-lb.

Later,

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Again, thanks to all, I appreciate your help.

one3502nv

iTrader: (1)

Not to scare you, but I would email APS before you install... We had the same problem and I believe the reason is because they are suppose to be tapered... And if they re-threaded it then I doubt they are tapered anymore... Like I stated before, we thought the threads were wrong too when we installed our first kit, but after many, they are all like that and suppose to be...

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Here is the answer from APS:

"The thread of the hose barb is intended to be very tight as it's a tapered thread to ensure zero fuel leakage and the hose barb fitting is intended to be installed with thread sealer as covered in the instructions. The fitting will not screw very far into the adaptor housing id machined correctly, this is how the part was designed.

Now with the o ring on the fuel reg it's very important that the O ring is well lubricated with rubber grease prior to the install, if guys would simply read the instructions clearly these issues would be avoided.

I asked engineering to check both of these issues and both proved to be zero problem if correctly installed"

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Both side felt as tight as the center hole after re-tapping. I feel 100% confident that it will be leak free and solid. I didn't want to take the chance of damaging the housing, which I know would have happenned.

Anayway, thanks all,

one3502nv

iTrader: (1)

No problem,,, just trying to help... Just make sure you check for leaks after putting 50lbs of pressure through it.... We had problems originally with ours leaking due to not being tight enough....

D@ActiveTuning

iTrader: (17)

I also had issues with it leaking after install. We tightened it up more, and no more leak Definitely make sure you grease up the o-ring.

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I did grease it up pretty good before install. Of course, I will chech for leaks. Thanks a lot guys...

PS. I just found out another problem last night, I will post tonight what it's all about (with pics). I hope this will also serve future people who want to install the kit themselves.

Later,

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

If anyone is interested to see the results, have a look here:

http://www.science.uottawa.ca/~paul/.../G35TT016.html
http://www.science.uottawa.ca/~paul/.../G35TT017.html

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Great pics....nice choice on getting the hot parts heat treated.

CESAROTORRES

iTrader: (27)

Subscribing

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Also brush up the APS technical bulletin regarding the oil drain lines. They are very sensative to oil pooling, and need to be trimmed and installed pricely as APS indicates in their bulletin