Are you standing up? ok, sit down for this one...
06-07-2005, 09:07 AM
#81
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Originally Posted by t32gzz
MOTOP - Not many of us have publicly posted about the heat issue, because we were under the impression that it was only happening on guys running 15+ psi. Did you take the block apart? Were the pistons melted? Please share. I know of my car and one other with melted pistons. If yours are melted, that makes 3. Definitely an issue.
Last edited by MOTOP; 06-07-2005 at 09:20 AM.
06-07-2005, 09:25 AM
#82
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Originally Posted by G3po
I'll plug again for water/methanol injkection again. I have noticed over a 200F drop in EGT on other apps with very small volumes Water injected. It is cheap and it really does work.
"Managing in-cylinder heat is the only reason for utilizing these overly rich fuel mixtures in forced induction engines. The excess fuel has no other function in power generation other than to permit the benefits sought from forced induction."
I think G3po, Tony and others are on the right track
06-07-2005, 09:41 AM
#83
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Originally Posted by Lorca@Z1
Agreed, Tony's G35C with APS TT & the water injection kit has some very low EGT's at 10PSI & 400+ whp. Water is so much better at cooling than gasoline is that it completely eliminates the need to dump so much fuel strictly for knock suppression.
"Managing in-cylinder heat is the only reason for utilizing these overly rich fuel mixtures in forced induction engines. The excess fuel has no other function in power generation other than to permit the benefits sought from forced induction."
I think G3po, Tony and others are on the right track
"Managing in-cylinder heat is the only reason for utilizing these overly rich fuel mixtures in forced induction engines. The excess fuel has no other function in power generation other than to permit the benefits sought from forced induction."
I think G3po, Tony and others are on the right track
You have pm.
06-07-2005, 09:53 AM
#84
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I had the tops and side skirts coated with a 2500 degree coating from PolyDyn. It didn't help. It could possibly have something to do with the Wiseco's and the custom quench pad.
There is a temp sensor at the back of the block, but it seems that the coolant is choosing the path of least resistance and going into the heads, bypassing the block completely. Again, this may be somewhat speculative, but it is a theory.
There is a temp sensor at the back of the block, but it seems that the coolant is choosing the path of least resistance and going into the heads, bypassing the block completely. Again, this may be somewhat speculative, but it is a theory.
06-08-2005, 06:35 AM
#85
Originally Posted by etx
I'm putting the 9:1 arias pistons in my motor, they better not break. The first thing I said when I saw them was they are probably the least beefy forged piston i've ever seen. Sharif, how do the CP's match up to the Arias pistons? Can you post a pic of the bottom showing the thickness of the skirts?
The first thing I said when I saw them was they are probably the least beefy forged piston i've ever seen. Sharif, how do the CP's match up to the Arias pistons? Can you post a pic of the bottom showing the thickness of the skirts?
heheAnyways, the standard Arias piston's ring lands are stronger...and the top land is a little bit thicker than stock. The skirts are roughly the same thickness as stock.....you really want the meat on the top of the piston..not the skirt. The skirt is used primarily for stability in the cylinder bore.
The pistons you have should be good for 550whp...with a really good tune.
Otherwise, you may want to consider the extreme duty pistons mentioned above. Those lands are MUCH thicker than anything on the market. CP Pistons are a premium piston, and should be stronger than the standard Arias Piston. But the Arias Extreme Duty will be even stronger than the CP, due to the zero silicon AL, thicker lands, buttons instead of locks..etc. As always, so much about engine longevity goes down to proper tuning and assembly, so ANY piston can break, when it is pushed beyond its limits, or subjected to severe detonation or heat. Forged motors can break too.
Stock piston vs. Arias Extreme Duty
Last edited by Sharif@Forged; 06-08-2005 at 06:46 AM.
06-08-2005, 06:45 AM
#86
Originally Posted by Lorca@Z1
Agreed, Tony's G35C with APS TT & the water injection kit has some very low EGT's at 10PSI & 400+ whp. Water is so much better at cooling than gasoline is that it completely eliminates the need to dump so much fuel strictly for knock suppression.
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Thanks.
06-08-2005, 08:34 PM
#87
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motor build update
the dreaded timing chain is on!!!!
i bolted on the manifolds/turbos/wastegates today (i can't imagine doing this with the motor still in th car)
tomorrow, if i get a break from work long enough- i'll bolt on other dealies: alternator, pulleys, belts, good stuff...
motor should be ready to go in fri..start breaking it in sat
sharif: pls call me reg message- catch can
thx
tODD
i bolted on the manifolds/turbos/wastegates today (i can't imagine doing this with the motor still in th car)
tomorrow, if i get a break from work long enough- i'll bolt on other dealies: alternator, pulleys, belts, good stuff...
motor should be ready to go in fri..start breaking it in sat
sharif: pls call me reg message- catch can
thx
tODD
06-08-2005, 08:43 PM
#88
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
sharif: pls call me reg message- catch can
thx
tODD
06-08-2005, 08:54 PM
#89
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Originally Posted by gq_626
I will ship it first thing in the morning. I just need to double check if you need the Greddy smaller can, or the larger one. They come in two sizes and think we use the smaller one on the 350Z.
any new hoses with that? or do i just use existing lines?
06-09-2005, 09:27 AM
#93
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Originally Posted by gq_626
It was a teaser pic....hehe
Glad you can appreciate fine forged timepieces.....LOL
Glad you can appreciate fine forged timepieces.....LOL
Az
06-09-2005, 09:46 AM
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I know my EGT's are relatively low because of WI and the sensor is in the test pipe (which really doesnt bother me) but I ran low on windshield washer fluid for a quick second and my EGT's jumped up 300 degrees @ WOT. Usually I'm around 800 degrees at full boost but the temperatures spiked pretty quick.
Last edited by tonio; 06-09-2005 at 09:48 AM.
06-09-2005, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by tonio
I know my EGT's are relatively low because of WI and the sensor is in the test pipe (which really doesnt bother me) but I ran low on windshield washer fluid for a quick second and my EGT's jumped up 300 degrees @ WOT. Usually I'm around 800 degrees at full boost but the temperatures spiked pretty quick.
06-09-2005, 10:04 AM
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Well, I've been on it constantly with a lot of racing. Normal driving I'd say it would last about a month or so. I dont mind though, I have plenty of washer fluid sitting around.
Later on down the line I may try different percentages with the mixture, down here in the south its hard to find windshield wiper fluid with more than 8% methanol, I wanted to try 20/80 or maybe even 50/50.
Later on down the line I may try different percentages with the mixture, down here in the south its hard to find windshield wiper fluid with more than 8% methanol, I wanted to try 20/80 or maybe even 50/50.
06-09-2005, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tonio
Well, I've been on it constantly with a lot of racing. Normal driving I'd say it would last about a month or so. I dont mind though, I have plenty of washer fluid sitting around.
Later on down the line I may try different percentages with the mixture, down here in the south its hard to find windshield wiper fluid with more than 8% methanol, I wanted to try 20/80 or maybe even 50/50.
Later on down the line I may try different percentages with the mixture, down here in the south its hard to find windshield wiper fluid with more than 8% methanol, I wanted to try 20/80 or maybe even 50/50.
Last edited by Gman2004; 06-09-2005 at 10:24 AM.
06-09-2005, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by gq_626
Lorca, what kind of EGT's are seeing at 10psi with your car vs. 10psi with water injection? Where is your sensor mounted?
Thanks.
Thanks.
See tonio's post above.
06-09-2005, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
What would the benifit be to using a higher percentage of menthanal? Did you get your WI kit from Lorca?
Depends, Lorca is much more experienced with it then I am, I just know what I've read and what I've seen. I think if you're worried about cooling issues then Methanol isn't that big of a deal. If I have the proper understanding water is going to cool the engine temperatures better than any gas.
Methanol raises the octane level so it helps in reducing detonation. In my case its just a little added security since I'm hitting 10psi from time to time.
One thing I didnt know was how much methanol cools the intake charge. I have a friend with an Evo that injects 100% methanol. Before injecting he had me check the intake tube to see how hot it was, then had me check it again afterwards and the difference was mind blowing.. of course the intake tube was pretty hot the first time I touched it, then afterwards it was completely cold to the touch. I dont know if I'd feel comfortable with 100% methanol cause the lack of tuning but it was interesting to see.
Methanol should richen the a/f ratio as well.
Last edited by tonio; 06-09-2005 at 11:35 AM.
06-09-2005, 01:01 PM
#100
Originally Posted by tonio
I know my EGT's are relatively low because of WI and the sensor is in the test pipe (which really doesnt bother me) but I ran low on windshield washer fluid for a quick second and my EGT's jumped up 300 degrees @ WOT. Usually I'm around 800 degrees at full boost but the temperatures spiked pretty quick.
Are you saying you are at 800 degrees F at WOT at 10psi? That is what my car idles at.
If you are saying that you are at 800 degrees C...that is incredibly hot EGT level...especially when the sensor is mounted on your test pipe.
Please clarify