The 1 Man Turbonetics Install
06-09-2005, 07:37 AM
#81
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hmmm... the reason i asked is because thats where i have my line hooked and it wasnt showing anything while i was driving. i took off the little black rubber piece on the plenum thing... shouldnt that open it up?? my gauge doesnt move like its getting no pressure at all.
06-09-2005, 07:46 AM
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What does your gauge show while your sitting at idle? At idle you should be in a vaccum. Have you checked the hoses to make sure they are not kinked or maybe even got burned through?
06-09-2005, 08:01 AM
#83
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I have the line from my plenum running to the BOV were I t'd it and run one to the BOV input and one the to boost sensor from autometer. Johnny is the guage lighting up at all?
06-09-2005, 08:03 AM
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ok i got it... i just went and checked and the big rubber thing on the firewall where i ran it through under the steering wheel was pinching it shut. i pushed out on the rubber thing from inside and now the hose is not crimped... i cant tell yet cause the car isnt startable but im guessing that was the problem cause the gauge lit up but would sit on 0 the whole time. no vacc or boost. im certain that was the problem though.
06-09-2005, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SirJonnyWispit
ok i got it... i just went and checked and the big rubber thing on the firewall where i ran it through under the steering wheel was pinching it shut. i pushed out on the rubber thing from inside and now the hose is not crimped... i cant tell yet cause the car isnt startable but im guessing that was the problem cause the gauge lit up but would sit on 0 the whole time. no vacc or boost. im certain that was the problem though.
06-09-2005, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by SirJonnyWispit
how many more hours until Tnetics opens up?? im in TN and its 12:05 here.. what is it in cali? 9:05??
BTW thanks for the quick response Dan
BTW thanks for the quick response Dan
06-09-2005, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SirJonnyWispit
well brad and reggie are both on the phone but i have a message in... maybe they will call back soon.... im eager to hear whats gonna happen.
06-09-2005, 08:27 AM
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MIA you mentioned Brad was checking thread pitch.... I did that and thread pitch is the same, its the thread diameter at the tip thats larger.. not to mention the T has a much faster taper than the sending unit.
06-09-2005, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SirJonnyWispit
MIA you mentioned Brad was checking thread pitch.... I did that and thread pitch is the same, its the thread diameter at the tip thats larger.. not to mention the T has a much faster taper than the sending unit.
06-09-2005, 09:21 AM
#92
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Absolutely. You could use either one of those kits. Turbonetics felt that tapping the block was a simple effective way to run the oil drain without added cost to the user. You are certainly able to use another oil pan if you like though.
06-09-2005, 09:27 AM
#93
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Originally Posted by BPL
Another (cheaper) option is to tap a JWT oil pan spacer. It's inexpensive, you don't have to drill your upper oil pan, and you get an extra quart. This is what I did for my install and it worked out great.
06-09-2005, 09:57 AM
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an oil pan spacer or entire oil pan wouldnt help my situation because the oil feed line has to be pressurized. thats why it goes in front of the pressure sending unit. if you ran the oil feed line into a spacer or the oil pan no oil would be pushed to the turbo and we all know what that would cause. on the other hand you can use the spacer for the return line since oil just falls from the turbo into the pan that way.
06-09-2005, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by SirJonnyWispit
an oild pan spacer or entire oil pan wouldnt help my situation because the oil feed line has to be pressurized. thats why it goes in front of the pressure sending unit. if you ran the oil feed line into a spacer or the oil pan no oil would be pushed to the turbo and we all know what that would cause. on the other hand you can use the spacer for the return line since oil just falls from the turbo into the pan that way.
06-09-2005, 10:02 AM
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well i talked to brad and reggie... brad said that they have been using an 1/8 ID NPT pipe tap like the one sent for the return line on that hole on older cars (mines an 03??). i sent pics of the crack and we think if i use the 1/8 tap and liquid NPT sealant that the T threads will go past the crack and it wont leak.. im waiting on a call from brad before i start to see if i need to clamp the crack closed before i run the tap in..... im thinking if i dont the crack will just spread as im tapping the hole and possibly crack farther since im gonna have to run the tap all the way to the end of the threads inside the boss.... damn this is wild, i hope it works... if so ill be spinning tires before nightfall haha
06-09-2005, 11:02 AM
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well i have some bad news... i have tapped the hole and the crack is worse than i thought.... it runs all the way to the gold ball in the boss that faces the front of the car (some will know what i mean) so i dont think its gonna matter about tapping the hole. i believe its still going to leak at the front boss. i cant get ahold of brad or reggie right now i guess they are at lunch. this BLOWS. if only the 1/8 tap was mentioned in the instructions.....