Some of these richness people are seeing, can be a result of decreased air velocity, particularly under vaccum. The slow turbulent air can have difficulty making the turn into the runners. That is why the OEM plate has precisely engineered air horns, to shape and curve the air into the intake runners.

 

it was showing in the 11s after. I didn't ride in it before though. If it the manifold was flowing less, boost might indicate higher though, because the air has nowhere to go.

 

Andy - after, however from reading one of the posts above you can not go by the zietronix unless you do your own math. I have to question why I have a guage in my car that does not read correctly. I think it has always been 2 psi to high.

I know the zietronix was reading around 9-9.5 before intake and after it read 11 when I shifted at redline.

So with the fuzzy math it would be around 7-7.5 and after it would be 9. All of this without tuning and just bolting on the intake.

 

only one way to find out for sure

Installed my new&improved version tonight... idle problems have been solved, the thing runs great now -- idles at 750rpm, no problems when i dump the revs (even from 6k)...

again, the ButtDyno™ says that i'm feeling slight gains all the way through the band (bigger gains at 3-4k, and much more at 6k+), but i won't know for sure until Saturday (dyno day).

i'd like to thank Andy & Tony at Performance Nissan for getting that stud, bolt, and pair of gaskets to me overnight. Thanks to Craft Repair of Hampton, VA for their awesome machine work. and to Sharif for his moral support, lol

 

The Bosch Sensor is a very accurate. It is taking into consideration other things that impact boost readings. That is why I mentioned, turn your key on without starting vehicle and let your sensors warm up. Take note of the boost value. It is probably negative, but could be positive. Multiply by .48 then add or subtract that value to what is showing on you LCD or if datalogging, that value.

For me, I am always showing a negative value (-5.0 to -6.0) with key on without vehicle starting. Thus multiply by .48 and add that value to what is displayed on the LCD of Lap Top datalogging display. At WOT I will display 3.8 to 4.3 pounds of boost. I then add 2.4 or 2.9 depending on startup value.

 

NOTE - COPIED FROM ANOTHER THREAD:

When I first posted my dynos I asked about the 9s wanting to know if that was normal and could we have gone lower in the R4. Check thread...

I wish that someone would have told me that my 9s are OK and that he can take it even lower. Ed told me has never had to go into the 9s before much less the 7s with the R4. Maybe their are still gains to be made. It does sound like several hours on the dyno. The car goes back on Wednesday while I work.

AlanL do you have time to baby sit the car at the shop? I know you have an interest in the new intake.

Jeremy

 

Well, today dynoed the car with the same settings I started with last week. The car is not rich as hell anymore however the power is still down. We are still on the dyno and hopefully we will get some better results in the next couple of hours.

Booger check your PM.

Jeremy

 

what does your timing look like? i forgot to take my logger to the dyno run last week, doh!!

 

We are making timing changes now. I just want the car to make what I had before. It is really weird last week to rich this time to lean.

Jeremy

 

Post results later. To lean....car is off the dyno.

 

Man i really want to cancel my order at this point, i hope i can get better results then this.

 

Would think some thing is wrong with the O2 sensor on the dyno ?

 

the o2 sensors usually won't read at all if it isn't working correctly, so it probably isn't that

 

I got the data from my run. He logged the seven or eight runs we did. I think you have to have some software to read the data from dynojet.com. I also have a copy of the current map on my car.

I can send it to you if you want to take a look.

Jeremy

 

sent you a PM...LeMans

 

Booger - thanks for taking a look.

The intake is not the problem (at least not yet). The tuning is. After reviewing the files the aux fuel pump is not turning on. So once we get the aux fuel pump on we can start playing with the values again. Should go rich on the top end again like my previous visit and then we should lean the A/F out by entering lower values closer to 7 and 8 in the R4.

I need written instructions for my dyno guy to follow on when this issue with the aux fuel pump happens and what the process is for fixing it.

Booger had posted this on another thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/122573-vortech-help-questions-aux-fuel-pump-not-kicking-in.html
"once you open the R4 , Click on Options....then output settings.....output B....should read ......over rpm and pressure......over rpm...should read 3000......over pressure...should read....0 to 2 psi ."

Are these values correct (I can't view the file you sent me)?

Click Options | Output Settings | Output B | Over RPM and Pressure
Update settings as follows:
Over RPM = 3000
Over Pressure = 0 to 2 psi

When does this issue with the aux fuel pump happen?

How do you confirm the settings have taken?

Do you have to check these settings every time before and after making changes?

I have resceduled another session next Wednesday afternoon and my wife will have to take the car. If you review the thread above I had told the shop about this issue the last time they tuning my car in May. I called the shop and told them what Booger said about the aux fuel pump and they said it sounded like their mistake and they would talk with the tuner when he gets back from his trip.

Thanks!!!

Jeremy

 

call me Jeremy