Can someone who knows the EU please give me call and help me? I have tried to install the software on my laptop to data log and when I plug it into the EU it won't connect. When I go to the communications tab I see all the options but it won't let me select any of them. I tried a few months ago before I blew my motor and sharif told me I had to install the driver. Shouldn't the f'ing driver be installed when I run the software? Anyway I went to mohadpart and downloaded the driver, but I still can't get the ***** to connect. I am beginning to hate this piece of chit........Standalone is in my near future! 305-206-3419 Jorge TIA

 

what's your e-mail? I'll send you the driver I have

 

jguzman@carnival.com. Shouldn't the driver be on the install CD? If not that's f'ing retarded.

 

some reason it's not letting me send all the files

 

did you get an undeliverable email reply? I will delete some stuff from my mail box. send again.

 

Sent again, more than likely if the files are on your comp. just use the add new hardware and then specify the files

 

I did install the software already with the CD. I also went to a website to get the driver. If you have time call me so you can walk me through it.

 

Jorge, do u have windows XP on the laptop? I was told by someone that the eu software doesn't work properly on some of the older operating systems, not sure how true that is though...

 

I just got off the phone with Gman....and he hasnt called back...which hopefully means he got it working!
Installing the software can be tricky, as sometimes the Windows installation wizard has trouble finding the USB driver. The best way to insure the USB driver is installed, is to download it from here: http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/index.html scroll towards the bottom. And then point the windows wizard to the uncompressd folder, when you first connect the EU to your laptop.

 

Sharif to the rescue. Thanks dude! I have been trying figure this out since 7 pm. The problem was that my install wizard wasn't coming up for me to point to the folder where I down loaded the driver. I finally got it to come up and just as it was transfering the driver my laptop went into hibernation cause my battery was dying. Anyway I got it working so I am going to get on the freeway and do a couple of runs. Thanks again Sharif!:

 

I have windows XP on two laptops and it didn't work on either one. It was the driver. Even though I downloaded it from the website that Sharif posted and installed it, I needed to transfer it from the folder to the install wizard. The install wizard usually pops up automatically when you install a new device, but it wasn't doing it in this case. I had to manually prompt the install wizard.

 

We went through the same thing with ZUL8R's car. That software won't work on older versions of windows(it wouldn't work on 2000) don't ask me why they use the same basic architecture???? Glad everything is working Jorge. Are you using the AF target map to help compensate for temperature/air density changes?

 

Not that it matters too much, but Windows 2000 uses the Windows NT architecture, where XP does not. This can create a magnitude of issues for software trying to talk to hardware because of the "Hardware Abstraction Layer" that Windows NT/2000 uses. I know it's OT, but thought it might be helpful.

Jorge, glad you got it running. Computer problems shouldn't stop us from having fun with cars!

 

Sorry for the thread resurrection, but I did not see any updates on this yet.

So is it possible to set final (overall) timing with EU yet?

Or can it still only do offset adjustment from stock?


Second question... is everyone using 1.14 firmware? It seems to be a fairly recent release (and yes I did a search, doesn't seem like too many people have commented about 1.14).

 

it is still adjustment from stock and the 1.14 ,from what I have seen, what they added was more applications.

 

Correct. The latest firware works fine on the 350Z, but no major added functionality.

 

So right now, the best idea is to make a conservative timing map in case the stock ECU decides to speculatively advance timing?

Or do you have any other suggestions I can give my tuner?

Thanks Sharif

 

it's not like the ECU is suddenly going to advance timing thru the roof. When you tune, you tune at WOT and as long as you're not pinging, the ECU should give you the most timing it possibly can. So if you tune it that way, you should be fine.

However even with target timing, if the weather ever gets colder at all than the temp you tuned at, the air will be denser, throwing off the A/F ratio a little making it leaner. That can cause you to ping.

Best idea is to either run some race gas, and/or pull the timing a little bit extra depending on the ambient air temp when tuning.



It's just nice to be able to set the timing and you always know you're getting that amount of timing and not have to wait for the ECU to decide it's safe enough to dial it back in after detecting no knock.

it actually might be safer to let the ECU control timing because say you're knocking. Normally the ECU would start pulling timing to prevent it. But if it does, and the EU forces the timing to stay where it is anyway, that's bad...

But if you KNOW you're not going to ping cause you're running race gas and/or water injection, then it's nice to firmly set the timing to always be what you want it to be, with no interferance from the ECU.

I'm actually not sure it's such a big deal like people made out to be - myself included.

I drive my car year around where the temp changes. It's not like it's a race car that's tuned at the bleeding edge per race/temp. So instead of having a tuner retune the car every month, I'll just let the ECU make timing adjustments.

The target A/F is the big thing you want to stay where you tell it no matter what

 

Well if the EU ever gains the functionality to set overall timing regardless of the stock ECU's timing, then you would definitely need to hook up the knock sensor on the EU.

But for now, I'll probably make little or no change to ECU timing (zero offset) so the stock ECU can detect knock and pull timing if it "wants" to, with zero offset it should be fine... at least this is what I gather from reading all I can about the EU over and over and over...

For now, my EU / autosport is wired up for intake temp sensor and coolant temp sensor, not knock sensor. I don't see a reason to hook up knock sensor unless EU is doing standalone / overall timing.

I also read that post about the 3-way switch, that's a great idea so I might put a switch between knock sensor and intake temp. I don't see why EU needs to know my intake temp especially on N/A setup.

 

hi. does anybody know what jumper settings have to be set on e-manage ultimate for 350z ?