F/I on forged bottom end-stock compression
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F/I on forged bottom end-stock compression
Well....I have been thinking about the options of having boost (turbo) on the stock compression ratio...but with a forged bottom end. I realize for past 500 rwhp it would be a problem. But...with say 10-11 lbs on stock compression I have seen a few guys eclipse the 500 rwhp mark. I would be content with that level of hp and boost on 94 octane. Thoughts??
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if I ever do a built bottom end I will be going with 10:0:1 or 10:3:1 I personally rather have higher compression with lower boost than lower compression with high boost... just make sure you have a good tuner doing your work
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It sounds reasonable, but if I may ask, what the benefit to putting the car "near the limits" with forged, stock comp. components, when for a little extra cost, you could put stress levels more in the 'comfort zone' and still achieve your goal of near 500 WHP. The lower Comp. would probably manifest itself in engine longevity.
Them's my thoughts..
Them's my thoughts..
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well the 10:0:1 or 10:3:1 thats if the car is supercharged otherwise I would say between 9:0:1 - 9:5:1 on turbo..... if I recall the worlds fastest 350z is using 10:3:1 but they're on race gas
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i am with the guys who want to run 10:1. My biggest fear is going fi and then not having enough torque down low and needing more. Of course, that would pretty much necessitate a new car. I have 50k miles so i dont think it is feasible to go FI on my current engine. I would have to build it. I also want to retain as much low end grunt as possible. I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.
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Originally Posted by JonathanG35
I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.
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Originally Posted by Phatmitzu
For bragging rights I guess.
400whp is already a decent number for a daily driver IMO.
400whp is already a decent number for a daily driver IMO.
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What if you wanted to just use stock boost (pick your kit) for lets say 350-400 rwhp and just wanted the forged bottom end for reliability? Is there any reason that you couldnt do this?
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Originally Posted by BluZee
What if you wanted to just use stock boost (pick your kit) for lets say 350-400 rwhp and just wanted the forged bottom end for reliability? Is there any reason that you couldnt do this?
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Originally Posted by JonathanG35
i am with the guys who want to run 10:1. My biggest fear is going fi and then not having enough torque down low and needing more. Of course, that would pretty much necessitate a new car. I have 50k miles so i dont think it is feasible to go FI on my current engine. I would have to build it. I also want to retain as much low end grunt as possible. I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.
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I thought about the same thing but figured if I'm going to build it might as well go with a lower cr, 9.0:1 and be done with it and have room for more boost later down the the road if desired. But hopefully I can get a test drive in one before doing so to make sure that's the route I would what to go. From what I hear , it doesn't effect off boost power most at all.
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Originally Posted by uplz4588
7/15/05, 517pm: I have stopped smoking for 10 days, 1 hours, and 17 minutes. I have not smoked 181 cigarettes and saved $40.73.
hahahahaaaaa! right on!
hahahahaaaaa! right on!
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Originally Posted by NismoGCoupe
well the 10:0:1 or 10:3:1 thats if the car is supercharged otherwise I would say between 9:0:1 - 9:5:1 on turbo..... if I recall the worlds fastest 350z is using 10:3:1 but they're on race gas
I don't believe they are on stock compression...I could be wrong, but I don't believe they are. I do know that they are using JE pistons. (probably custom bore and cr)
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Originally Posted by BluZee
What if you wanted to just use stock boost (pick your kit) for lets say 350-400 rwhp and just wanted the forged bottom end for reliability? Is there any reason that you couldnt do this?
To answer your question. No, there is no reason you couldn't do that. The price would be around $5k to get the parts, have the pistons and rods balanced, the block bored and honed, and have it assembled. (I can give you direct pricing quotes from SGP Racing if you'd like)
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g356gear, you are going to be using an APS TT right? (therefore, using Unichip as the EMS)
Personally, I wouldn't use a piggyback if I went with that CR. Going to need a great tuner and a great EMS (such as a standalone) would be better IMHO.
Personally, I wouldn't use a piggyback if I went with that CR. Going to need a great tuner and a great EMS (such as a standalone) would be better IMHO.