Ok, since I got my baby back and she's putting out strong I have a few questions on maintenance and some things I noticed that I want confirmed or denied by other APS TT owners:

1) Oil? Mobil 1 Synthetic...but what weight?

2) I noticed that my AC seems to be much stronger now...is that normal?

3) When driving in Bumber to Bumber traffic for about 30 minutes my radiator came on very loudly and kept on running until I was off the freeway and was able to push a bit harder than everything went back to normal. (about 100 degrees out here). Is that normal? Or should I upgrade my radiotor and why would that happen under bumper to bumber? Note my tempurate gauge was in the middle where it's supposed to be

4) Since I have a mechanical Defi Boost Gauge the vacuum hose hooks up into it from the engine bay (zip tied) theoratically if that hose would have a leak would I be exposed to exhaust fumes?

That's it for now

 

10-W30 synthetic

During idle or at WOT?

Did Brainstorm give you a cooling solution? You should use Water Wetter, change to a colder spark plug if not done already, get a lower temperature T-stat. Also a bigger radiator would certainly help and a vented hood or hood spacers. Also I don't think anyone had done it yet but a fan switch would be very helpful for the track. Also do a scan with an OBD2 to check the temperature digitally to see if it has truly climbed at all.

I don't think that will be an issue because if it leaks you will know from the boost drop.

 

Radiators should always be on and not make any noise.

 

Watching your posts...

 

What I meant is that the fan was spooling ultra high.

 

driving about 5 mph bumper to bumper 10 fwy traffic...
I have colder plugs in there.
Cooling solution? No, unless they already put it in, but they didn't say anything about it. I'll do an OBDII scan tonight.

What's a T-Stat?

 

If you had the AC on this weekend then I'm not surprised the high fans came on. The turbos increase the heat in the motor regardless of where they are. Thats normal. You could certainly run Watter Wetter but it will only help so much. You could get a water temp gauge to monitor the temps though.

 

is it safe to assume that if the tempurature gauge on the dash stays normal that you're sok?

 

Eh...I would say no honestly. The temps can swing 30 degrees before that thing moves.

 

Thermostat for your radiator?

 

mrtomcat

It sounds pretty normal for the cooling fans to come on after that amount of bumper to bumper traffic, I had the APS TT installed Oct 04 (it has clocked up 15,000Km) and drove it daily through heavy city traffic right throught our hot Australian summer, I did'nt see any temps over 100 degrees celius (have Defi BF water gauge) , I'm running stock radiator and thermostat with Watter Wetter. I'm using a full synthetic oil, 10-60W Castrol Formual R, I intend to do more track days (timed sprints) this coming summer so I intend to add an oil cooler and larger radiator, I did do some track days last summer and after 4 or 5 laps thing can get pretty hot but with daily street driving you should be fine.

Cheers

 

As far as cooling- You should be fine, you can add water wetter and it will help a little but I have driven and raced my car in 100 degree weather with no problems.. As far as oil, APS reccommends 10/40 synthetic, thats what i have been running for the 20k miles that i have put on my APS... And as far as your boost guage leaking, there would not be any fumes, just the possible lose of boost....

 

Very true, on the dyno, I've seen OBDII temps swing from 180 to 220 and the needed doesnt even budge.

THe APS Bar and Plate intercooler has excellent heat soak properties. The drawback of bar and plate intercoolers, is they have a dense weave to them, and they reduce airflow to the radiator, moreso than a fin and tube style radiator. They are also heavy as crap...we're installing an APS TT kit on a G35 here, and that thing is HEAVY.

A cooler thermostat does nothing for you, once the engine reaches operating temp...since the thermostat will always be open. The thermostats dont make your engine run any cooler during hot driving conditions.

I would try an upgraded radiator, and oil cooler, and make ABSOLUTELY certain that your cooling system was properly purged of air bubbles. I had to vent my system on 4 different occasions to finalliy get all the air out. And my temps dropped dramatically on the dyno. Even when your technician thinks they have all the bubbles out, it would be wise to repeat the process two more times.

Hope that helps!

 

thanks for the info. So far it's been driving great and I think it's ok.

What the heck is Water Wetter??? I've never heard that before.

Also I noticed that when I come home there's some coolant dripping from the coolant container (they replaced the stock one) it bascially overflows a bit. Is that normal?

How do you make sure all bubles are out?

ps. Sorry for all those questions after my last turbo disaster the tiniest little noise makes me worry right now...once all that is cleared up I'll be able to truly enjoy the kit

 

Its' a product sold by Redline Oil Company.

Cheers

 

what does it do and where do you put it (add to coolant?)

 

YUP!! I have used it for over 10 years,... You can get it for about $7 at any auto parts store...
http://redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

 

wow, that's interesting.
So why if water by itself are car makers putting in coolant instead of just water (other than for winter conditions)

 

If your getting coolant out of the overflow tank you still have air in the system.The installer has to bleed it again.

 

This is definatley a sign of bubbles or air in the cooling system. Time for a few more rounds of coolant system bleeding (read fun!). Do NOT boost your car until you get this sorted....it will overheat before you know it....and the temp gauge will barely move.