Yes I did actually...

249 WHP at about 6100rpm
220 TRQ at about 5000rpm

Only with the Tanabe Ultra Medalion.

Now...

322 WHP at about 5000rpm
335 TRQ at about 4100rpm

So I guess there is something def. wrong with my numbers but like I said the car drives as if there is not any problems other than after 5000RPM at WOT it goes straight to around 10.5 A/F and is where my power tappers off on my dyno results... Running to rich seems to be the cause from looking at the results, and what the shop considers is my reason for lower results.

So once again I have no ways to be 100% sure on what anything could be, so I will learn more after next week on if getting another flash is going to help any... And if it doesn't it means I have to rush this Emanage Ultimate install/tuning which hopefully will shed more light on my car.

 

Yep, I would agree that the fuel is one of your issues, though 10.5 while rich, isn't *that* rich. I don't know if you'd see the 30-40 WHP you should be seeing by tuning fuel up one point. What boost are you running again? I have been out flogging my car tonight, and with 11 PSI of boost, she runs great. You might just try upping the boost a pound or two to help lean things out for you until you can get the EU installed.

 

you are brave running at 11 psi on a stock motor. Any idea why your boost goes so high?

 

Well, there are two factors that make me comfortable with this...First is the fact that even at 11 PSI, my car is running A/F in the 9's between 4500 and 6K rpm. Timing retard on the reflash is good and I use 93 Octane gas.

Second, at 8:30 tonight, it was still almost 90 degrees outside, so the air is thin right now. Before it starts to cool down, I will have a piggyback management solution in place and the boost turned down.

As for why my boost is so high, I'm using a 9 PSI spring, but I have a very open exhaust, so my turbo is spooling very easily. That's the theory anyway.

 

you're down in hks sc territory. hope you get it sorted out. what has tn said?

 

Yeah 10.5 isn't very rich, and I am at 8.5psi (added three shims to the wastegate).


Is that HKS SC territory? I thought the HKS SC goes into the 12's A/F which is where folks were worried about running to lean... Or do you mean numbers? Since I only gained like 73WHP?

Also Turbonetics, when talking to Reggie before it would just he most likely would say it was the install. So not really going to be to helpful there.

I am considering that when I get this Emanage Ultimate installed and tune'd that I also pick up the Crawford plenum and see where I need to go from there.

 

Why did you have to shim it to get to 8.5psi? What were you at before the shims?

 

I'm sure he was referring to power, not A/F with the HKS comment, which is true. The HKS S/C is pretty mellow.

Anyway, I'm also curious about the shims. What are those used for? Limiting boost or raising boost? If they are for raising boost, then I'd say you have a boost leak somewhere because I'm pretty sure it shouldn't take any shimming to get 8.5 PSI with this wastegate and a stock exhaust system. An aftermarket exhaust would lead to higher boost because it will allow the turbo to spool faster on a given amount of exhaust gas.

The Emanage and plenum sound like a good plan at any rate, since the plenum will help to lean you out a bit, and the emanage will give you the adjustment you need.

I'd still be looking for boost leaks though if I were in your shoes.

 

Well it was a attempt to see if I could lean out some more, and I didn't know how much more boost a shim would give me... So I guess that when you buy the wastegate by itself it comes with like five of them along with the different springs (rated differently)... So I might add 2 of more to be like 9psi or atleast I assume it will be close enough. Then down the road after I build the motor up some while lowering the compression I will go about a boost controller for much higher boost.

Before the shims it was 8psi.


Yeah, shims are used to add more tension to the wastegate spring... I guess poor man's boost controller

Since I was making 8psi before the shims across the board I don't think I have a leak, now I did orginally not get the correct boost cause the shop placed the boost sensing hose in the wrong port on the BOV so I was making 6psi... But I found that out and it was at the correct psi, added the shims as a way to lean out some (cheap one)

 

re hks comment, their kit only makes ~80hp ootb.

 

Just to go a tad off topiuc. In the first post with the picture of the PPW Z, what rims are those? also what sideskirts and front lip? Thanks

 

Peking, by any chance have you had an oppurtunity to check your fuel pressure at idle and across the board? Just curious...

 

Gotcha folk and tech. I am below that number Well as of now anyway.


Nope Robb, but I was looking over the install instructions again and the reason for the additional modifications to the fuel pump is to allow more flow capacity with the fuel output.

So wouldn't that kinda mean I would have been lean from lack of fuel getting to wear it needs to be? Or am I understanding that wrong... I was figuring I would find out more if my second attempt of the ECU flash doesn't do any good and if the Emanage Ultimate would show more signs of trouble.

Either way I was thinking of the AAM SPec Return Complete Return Fuel System which seems to come with what I might need... Any thoughts?

 

No the reason for the fuel pressure regulator modification is a result of the increased pumping of the Walbro pump. It is overwhelming that stock regulator hole. The result is a base fuel pressure of 70 PSI or so. Because of the increased fuel pressure your injectors are going to act like they are even bigger. Same kind of thing as the Vortech kits. They boost the fuel pressure to make the stock injectors flow more and become adequate for the boost it is running. If you are running 20 more PSI of fuel then you should it would DEFINITELY explain why you are so rich. Thats why I'm curious what your fuel pressure is. It should be at around 53 PSI at idle and drop to 46 PSI (stock fuel pressure) under full boost. Turbonetics purposely sets the base fuel pressure about 7-8 PSI higher to compensate for the boost from the turbo reducing fuel pressure. However without the FPR being modified you might be running WAYY to much fuel pressure.

 

Gotcha, well I will be def. making those modifications sometime this week then wish me luck that my shakey hands don't fudge up LOL.

 

No worries...just remember to take your time and do everything carefully. In all honesty you should verify your fuel pressure first anyways...its always good to know what you are starting with...either way good luck and let me know if I can help out at all..

 

Looking over the Service Manual it states that I should do "Fuel Pressure Release". Did you guys do this step?

Also I was also looking over Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit to check fuel pressure (says it should be stock 51psi)... Well I figure honestly the fuel pump modifications that it was something I should have done anyway so I am not to concerned about the pressure as of now...

Also thanks MIA, I will let you know how this goes

Just curious about something else, so the FPR to be modified is tailored for the 380cc injectors... Would it be possible to leave the FPR as is untouched and upgrade the injectors to like 440cc... Along with when I get the Emanage Ultimate installed and ready for tuning?

 

Definitely do the pressure relase step. I have a horror story from a previous car that I won't share with you from trying to change my fuel filter without this step. Let's just say that a) it's a LOT easier in this car, and b) you should definitely do it.

 

You could but the high fuel pressure is not going to be changed by adding bigger injectors. In fact you will have to pull even MORE fuel out then you would as is as now you are running 440cc injectors with 70 PSI of fuel pressure. You are going to be in the 8s in AFR like that...

 

I'm a noob at this, so If i'm going to change my O-ring; do i need to do the pressure relase step? TIA.