I know that it's recommended to do oil changes every 3000~4000 KMs WITHOUT FAIL but just wondering if there's any "special oil" that is recommended for aftermarket FI setups?

What are you guys using?

 

Motul 300V 10W40 Chrono(s). If you do your research on oils this is a type 4 - considered the best of the best - Ester-based 100% Synthetic Oil.

But it's pricey....over twice the cost of type I dino-based synthetics.

Sold in 2 litre bottles it runs around 20-25$ per bottle.

 

It seems to be indivual preference I use 5W30 Royal Purple, thought I about Amsoil as I hear is one of the better ones, but too lazy to get it.

 

I run either Mobil 1 10W-30 or Turbonetics TS-1 depending on what I can get my hands on when I need to change my oil...

 

I asked CP Racing what they use when they do an install and I was told AMS Oil 10-W30 and an OEM oil filter.

 

I have run AMSoil 5w-30 with a Mobil 1 filter and I am currently running Mobil 1 5w-30 with an OEM filter.

 

Redline 10w30 in my boosted VQ

 

so there isn't a specific oil that's best for a boost setup...as long as it's synthetic...

that motul oil sounds great but at that price WOW... how do I pull off an oil sponsorship again? LOL

 

I mix up 15W50 and 5W30 in half (Mobil 1). The result is about a 10W40 Mobil 1. As it gets cooler in the Fall, I will likely only use 5W30.

 

The best answer to your question is the thickest you can use for your climate. Without getting into too big of a discussion it is a known fact that the heavier the oil the better it will help lubricate(or not wear your components). Depending on your weather conditions you should use the thickest oil you can as long as it is a synthetic. I live in Florida so I can use the think stuff year round(Mobil 1 15w-50). I have a friend that I ride with that does Radioactive wear tests for engine oils for a living and he says that a dino(conventional) 15w-50 can outperform a syth 5w-30. You will sacrifice a little horsepower(somewhere in the .5-1% area) for less wear but I can live with that. I know that my bikes only see hard use(between 7,000 rpm and 12,000 for the 1000 and 15,800 rpms for the 600) and they definitely like the thicker oil better. They have much less load than on a car but still the stress is there. They run noticabley quieter with this thick oil as well.
Alan

 

I thought that given the more complex castings and tighter tolerances in today's engines, too thick an oil can actually lead to excessive wear particularly during the engine's warm-up period. I think of finding the right oil as making the right compromise.

Not all synthetic oils are what die hards would call synthetic. Mobil, Castrol Syntec and some AMSOILs now use engineered dino oils. I think the legend goes like this....AMSOIL took Mobil to court for calling their oil synthetic even though it used stock that began as dino oil; Mobil won; AMSOIL had to start product lines using the same base as the MOBIL stock because it is much cheaper (approx. 50% cheaper), putting them at a cost disadvantage to MOBIL...most other major oils followed suit. I understand that Redline spends quite a bit on its raw materials...uses 30% real type3 or type4 synthetic oil base stocks with the cheaper "synthetic" dino oil. Motul 300V is the only 100% Type 4 Esther Oil that I know is distributed in North America. Note that Motul has a cheaper oil more in line with Redline, Royal Purple, et al.

Just some key specs to consider for your oil: Viscosity Index - the higher, the "slipperier" or less friction your engine will see; Flashpoint: The higher the less oil you will likely burn; Pour point: The lower, more fluid your oil will be at cooler temps.

 

I thought that given an oil that is 15w-50 that the 15 was the actual thickness and that 50 was a temperature index of when the oil will breakdown. Does that hold any truth or does someone know the technical definition?

 

Yeah kinda..it's the thickness at ambient temps...

Not really....the 50 is the thickness of the oil at operating temp (or at a standard 200F or thereabouts).

The higher the numbers, the thicker the oil.

Heavier oils provide more film, so it protects your bearings....however if it becomes too thick for your engine, you will actually wear the upper metals in your engine prematurely because of the delay in flow during warmup. I do agree that in general, most engines can go one step towards a thicker oil than the common recommendation (unless you are in a very cold climate).

There a number of labs where you can send your used oil out for a UOA (Used Oil Analysis)...they send you results of trace metals and you can figure out if/what you are wearing at what rate, and if you are using the right oil and/or want to change/adjust.

 

That's what I plan to do. I've used Blackstone labs quite a few times for my bikes. It gives you a good idea of what is really going on in the engine. If it's out of wack then just change the oil to a different thickness and the cycle continues.

 

I am using Mobil-1 15w-50 oil, and a Mobil-1 M105 filter. My oil pressure at idle was extremely low. Below 15psi on the oem guage. I uppped from 5w-30 to 10w30 and made no difference. Now witht he heavier oil, my oil pressure at idle is a tick under 30.

 

That's interesting...would be the first Z owner I know doing UOA...please share your findings over the coming months. Thanks...

I guess I'd rather pay for ridiculously expensive product that is probably overengineered for my application than actually do the right thing!!! (>>>Insert Home Improvement Grunt-Grunt-Grunt Here!!!<<<)

 

I'm a G owner, lol. Lets say v35 or z33 owner. hehe.

EDIT: No I'm not.
Post from fresh alloy with Blackstone Analysis

 

For what it's worth, I have an engineer on hand that works with me and builds my motors and my customer's motors as a side job. His day job is at HPD (Honda Performance Development) working on Honda's Indy Car motors. He also gets to play with the F1 motors. They tested a bunch of different oils down there at the "lab" and found that Mobile 1 synthetic actually did a better job lubricating vital engine parts. They tested all manner of high end oils and were pretty shocked themselves at how Mobile 1 outperformed even the ultra expensive formulas.

 

I can't find any 10w40 Mobil One anywhere, or I'd give it a try...

 

Like I said, a 50-50 mix of 15W50 and 5W30 will roughly give you a 10W40. That's what I do now.