overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

ok, if anyone has been following any of my other posts, you will prolly say that i should get my car sorted first before adding nitrous. but when i do i have been thinking of adding nitrous also. the thought of 800rwhp just sounds to fun. has anyone done both before? pluses and negatives? built motor should hold it i assume for a 200hp shot.

cquence 350 [Z]

wow 200 shot is still a lot with turbos as well. I was thinking of somewhere between 75-100. Maybe someone more experienced with Nitrous can help him.

G3po

iTrader: (8)

a) did you sleeve the block? , if not, I wouldn't risk adding a significant NO2 shot.

b) Your sig shows a Tilton clutch? Now ay would this be adequate

c) if you were actually able to hook this kinda power up , the driveline becomes a huge critical point , you'd need to consider upgrading at least the half shaft, and the OEM 6mt mat become the nest break point.

etc etc.

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

Geez man, a 200 shot?
I plan on using my Zex kit with my APS TT but only in the lower rpm range(about 1500-3000 rpm) & only a 55 shot.
I had custom pro pins made with my pistons so they can handle the TQ.
Did you upgrade your wrist pins?
I always ran 100 octane 100% of the time when boosting & spraying.

Znitro

Come on....

200-300 shot with octane boost and splitfire sparkplugs should be fine...

F the wrist pins,trans,halfshafts

Video Please..... during the dyno tuning I wannna see it.

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

Aren't you supposed to be working?
Don't listen to znitro or his sig.
He really has twin turbonators.
He swears by his ocane boosters & slit fire plugs.
Drill some holes in your muffler for less back pressure.

Znitro

24 volt Turbonators dude, two batteries in series....... I get my octane boost from 1 gal of acetone to every 2 gal of 87 to keep prices down.

Pep Boys has the Bosch quad fire on sale this weekend for $2.99 my new favorite.

Try propane injection... easy to steal from uncle Jeb's trailer and just mount the tank in your trunk F ___ the extra fuel. Motors make the most power when their lean anyway.

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

well i would never hit it out of the hole. maybe half track or beyond, so factors of clutch and half shafts become a little less of a concern. maybe 200 would not be the best place to start, but 100 definatley sounds do able. it would only be hit for a few seconds at a time at high rpm, then mostly show piece the rest.

XBS

iTrader: (29)

The emanage ultimate acutally has a feature that you can hook up to your nitrous setup so when you do spray it retards the timing even further, also dont go over a 100 shot with FI i would start with a 55 shot and go from there.

mikz350

[QUOTE=overZealous1]ok, if anyone has been following any of my other posts, you will prolly say that i should get my car sorted first before adding nitrous. but when i do i have been thinking of adding nitrous also. the thought of 800rwhp just sounds to fun. has anyone done both before? pluses and negatives? built motor should hold it i assume for a 200hp shot.[/QUOTif if your engine cant spool your turbo then nitrous will help but if its not your case then buy methanol injection and crank up the boost or get a bigger turbo then buy nitrous if its needed!

Mean Gene

Wes - U gonna start spraying @ 1500 rpms? ZEX techs told me not to start until 2k so that's what I had planned on doing w/ my Vortech. I figure to start the nitrous @ 2k ( maybe now 1500 since U seem to have a better idea of things than I do ) & gradually ramp it back as the boost comes up. Let me know how your works out for ya & we'll compare notes.

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

my car still has all the bottom end i need and if not i just gear down or rev the motor quick.
as far as "hitting the button at lower rpms, a small shot could be ok, but nothiong big at all. i had it explained to me simply put. "the lower the rpms, the more nitrous each piston is going to recieve due to the valve being open longer putting alot more stress on components plus the low rpm torque shock. hitting it at higher rpms means each cylinder is actually getting less nitrous into each cylinder reducing the cylinder pressures." simply put, think of a string chopping machine, the slower it chops, the longer the string, lol.

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

Well, with the Stillen SC I had power tapering off quickly in the RPM's up top. I had to add n2o to the weak point (4000-6000).
With the way turbos are designed, I figure they need it as low as posible. If a minimum of 2000 RPM's required, then I guess I'll start with that. This is all after dyno tuning and finding when the power really kicks in,that way I can turn the "juice" off when the boost gets to the psi I want. No sense in wasting n2o(you know each bottle costs $40),just turn up the boost.

I understand your theory. However, I figure with this set-up it would be best to use as least n2o for the shortest amount of time in the lowest RPM's for the most efficient (cost/power/safety) combination.

That EU sounds pretty cool. Tons of options, so many tuners to choose from.

I plan on upping the hp to somewhere in the ballpark of 500-600hp. I had major traction problems with 330hp, 500-600hp is going to be insane. I can't imagine 800hp, I'll bet you'll need 330 drag radials to hook up.

Meangene, I'll keep in touch. My project should be finished(well, not FINISHED finished but...) in about a month.

I just got my spark plugs & catch can today from Forged Internals. Custom actuators from Torque Freeks should be here any day.I can't wait.

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

call me crazy but i'm gunna try to hit a low 11 on street tires. not even dot's, but just plane z rated, lol. i have had experience with my vette not catching traction till half track. looks like elbows and azzholes in the car, hahah. should be possible but it will be quite a ride!!

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

It's definately possible.
Keep us posted.