oh yah...and im ditching the helix test pipes...gonna do the 3" exhaust from the downpipes back!...if need be, for emmisions or whatnot, i'll swap back my stock exhaust (i still have it)
anybody want to buy a borla true dual exhaust?
also, i noticed the potential clearence issue with the passenger side rear muffler mounting...it will need to be angled a lot to clear the charcoal/emissions filer thingy..hey someone please explain what that thing does and why i need it (the little metal box that has hoses and thingies inside it<--great description, huh?)

 

Don't forget about me now on this w/g dump deal. I was planning on doing it custom, no idea you had plans for this. I guess I'm always just one step behind

 

what is the break down price on these:

1) Arias 9.0:1 Pistons = ?$
2) Pauter ORds = ?$
3) JWT Cams/springs = ?$
4) Mildly Ported Heads = ?$
5) ATS Twin Disc Carbon = ?$
6) AAM Spec Return Fuel System and Walbro 255 = ?$
7) 550cc injectors = ?$
8) 16.5psi Boost Pressure = ?$
9) Greddy TT kit = ?$
10) eManage Ultimate ECU = ?$

 

I have a new Greddy TT kit with eManage, injectors, Greddy oil pan, and FMIC. I had all the intercooler pipes chromed and the manifolds heat coated. The kit has never even been installed. I will let it go for $5500+shipping.

 

Congrats Sharif, those are some GREAT numbers!

 

That's a great deal. If I didn't already have one, I'd be all over it.

 

A good deal is anything below $5800 w/FMIC. If all the exhaust stuff is ceramic coated that's worth another $350. Good deal for anyone interested.

 

hehe...lets not turn this into a private classified thread please.

Todd, the Greddy EWVo2 exhuast has a charcoal canister relocation bar, and that is why the mufflers should fit. You and brody could easily fabricate a bracket to move the canister to the center of the underside of the car. Call me and I will explain this.

 

539 + 99

There you go!

 

Well if you get pulled over by a cop for the noise you can act innocent and say...

"Golly Gee Mr. Officer. I'm from California and I'm not used to these NC laws yet. I've got this neat little sticker on my windshield, doesnt that make me legal?"

 

Nice numbers Sharif, in particular that torque.

In regards to sleeving your block (which someone mentioned earlier) I seriously don't think you would need this if you chose to run at his level. The stroke to rod ratio is pretty high on these motors so I can't see there being much lateral movement on the stock sleeves from piston side loading.

If you're concerned with longevity I'd really consider cryo tempering. Mainly your crank and bearings since these take a majority of the load.

Also, are you running stock rear shafts? At this power level do you see it necessary to consider upgraded shafts if you're not drag racing??

 

I am not worried at the 600whp level, but curious if the block will hold up at the 700whp level. In addition to lateral forces of the rod and piston moving in the bore, I would be concerned with shear cylinder pressure with the open deck design, as well as the head gasket. So far so good.

Yes, I have upgraded Drive Shaft Shop rear axles, and an ATS Carbon LSD.

The plan is to run the car as is, after addressing the clutch and injectors. Then off to the drag strip for some runs. BFG Drag Radials and 18 inch TE37's are waiting and ready.

After that, we are planning a few additionals mods, and then pushing to 700whp.

 

My exhaust wasnt made for the US cars (Japanese has no canister back there) so it had some clearance "issues". I removed the heat shield for space and wrapped the titanium pipes with heat wrap. And then I put heat shielding on the canister. Anyway, the canister melted from the heat and I have a CEL from it in addition to the O2 sensors cause I have no cats.

That canister takes the fumes from the gas tank and feeds them to the engine. Back when I was installing the exhaust, I did a whole lot of research on it. Basically, if the cycles of the valves in the canister and the valve near the engine dont match with the pressures being experienced - as in, you remove it or block off parts, it will throw a CEL.

This would mean you fail emissions for one more reason. My suggestion, remove it cause I'm sure a new one's gonna cost like $500. You should still vent the gas tank (OUTSIDE the car) or else it's gonna pressurize when it's hot outside and you could run into some serious problems.

 

thanks for sharing, i'll definately take that into consideration

 

danm..i wish we have tuner shop like you in North Cal.

 

Todd, the Greddy Evo2 exhuast comes with a Evap canister relocation kit. It would be really wasy for you and brody to fashion a metal bracket to secure the canister in the center of the underside of the trunk floor pan. Essentially, you would relocate the evap box to sit in between the two mufflers.

Personally, I would relocate it, rather than remove, to avoid a constant CEL.

 

whats up with your shrt block?

 

First off congrats on the AWESOME numbers but

I am curious what you pull on normall fuel not many of us can pull 100 octane out of our A$$'s without a trip to the local track

 

Awesome numbers, looks like we had two 600 plus hp cars come out of the shop this week, only one was a Z but hey its always nice to have a few high HP cars rolling around the charlotte area, can't wait to go for a ride in that thing. Seems like a lot of quick cars are popping up in the area should make for a good video

 

We do.....
http://www.scottperformance.us/index.html give them a call strictly z tuning and modifaction been around for 30 yrs....