So after figuring out what oil to use I went out today to pick up 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W40....
well, No One has it...as a matter of fact the only synthetic 10W40 I could find was Castrol Syntec.
I went to Autozones and Mobil Stations everyone has 10w30 but nada on the 10W40...

So what to do? I don't have time to order online so should I go with the Castrol 10W40 or the Mobil 1 10W30???

Please advise

 

Find an Amsoil dealer online. Thats the easiet way. Or check the local motorcycle performance shops. They typically carry Amsoil as well.

 

If I go the AMSoil route they don't even have a distribution center in california.
I guess I'll have to order it online and rush it...I HATE LA

Is this the correct AMSoil? AMO SAE 10W-40?
And how about the AMSOil Oil filter should I get that as well?

 

ok, I ordered the AMSoil AMO SAE 10W-40 and a SDF13 Oil Filter.
because of my luck they don't have an option for overnight so I guess this will go in with the next oil change...

so for my immidiate needs coming back to my above question: will the Castrol synthetic 10W40 do?

 

Just run the stock Nissan oil filter. I flows just as well if not better then aftermarket ones. As for purchasing trust me when I tell you that motorcycle shops carry their stuff. protocav just picked some up from the local motorcycle shop here in SD. At least call around and check.

 

I'll call around to some MC shops tomorrow.

They state if you're turboed you should change the oil every 6 months or 12500 miles (reason I ended up getting the amsoil oil filter as well)

Is that accurate? How often do people with FI on here change their AMSOil?

 

I change my oil every 3000 miles. I could care less what the marketing minds have to say. You should never go 12000 miles on one oil change in a turbo car. The heat introduced to the oil from the turbo bearing is to high to discount. Regardless of bearing type, ball bearing, sleeve, watercooled, not....there is a very significant amount of heat there. Even with a high flash point oil is going to break down. Long answer short...every 3k miles. Nissan oil filter, 5 qts of oil. Tried Royal Purple this time. Going back to Turbonetics TS-1 next time.

 

that's what I figured. better safe than sorry...

Thanks for the info!

 

I think you made a good choice going with AMSOIL. I am currently running Royal Purple but seem to be burning alot of oil between changes. Before Royal Purple I was using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and it did not burn as much as the Royal Purple. I am going to try AMSOIL for my next oil change. Where did you buy it from? I need to place an order. I hope to find that it will not burn up as much as the other synthetic oils I have used.

Here is a link to the AMSOIL applications guide. You will need to type in the year make and model of the car. It looks like there are a total of 3 types of oil to choose from depending on your preferences.



https://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runis...msoiloaf:index


Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil

 

I ordered from their site http://www.AMSoil.com

the application guide does not help since they are not for FI I got the AMO SAE 10W40

 

There is no such things as Mobil1 10w-40, Only Mobil1 Ow-40 exists.

A good winter oil for a Turboed car and a fair summer oil for an SC'ed car.
You are positn gin FI forum so I figure you have one of either?.
If NA 0w-40 Mobil1 is a great oil as is Syntec in 0w-30 a lot thicker oil at running temp than people think kinda like a real stable xw-35) or any good 10w-40.

If turboed in Summer and you want Mobil1 the 15w-50 is likely a better choice.

Fred..

PS : For what its worth my SC'ed with 9psi Pully Z I run Redline 10w-40 in summer, its one of the thicker 40's especially in regard to HT/HS.

 

I run Castrol Syntec and what I find interesting is that everyone supports Mobil 1 for some reason. I would rather run Amsoil but after looking at Amsoils own data collection from their website, the Castrol Syntec performed so well at such a lower price that I decided to stay with Castrol over the Amsoil. Castrol always seems to perform as one of the best oils on the market in the tests that have less bias in them.

 

Since you are FI, you may want to read here...


https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ghlight=amsoil

 

the only reason I'm looking for 10W40 is because that's what APS specifies to use and they should know best.
Mobil 1 10W40 does exist the question is where...
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ce_10W-40.aspx

 

Oh you are talking about the Extended performance long drain version...

I dont want to use that in a performance car as it will skew the formulation with excessive addtives to ensure longevity of the oil.

There such a thing as too many addtitives.
For example anti-foaming .
A certain amount will reduce foaming to nil, if thats doubled or tripled the effect wont be better just longer lasting.
But the additives dislpace base lube stock at the expense of lubricity...

I only consider the EP formulation,if you want to extend OCI's beyond 10k ( which I dont think you are aiming for ,ut you are looking for a high performance oriented oil instead.)

For the reasons above since I change my oil regulariuly,I wont consider EP formulations of any kind.

But I guess you are right technicaly the 10w-40 EP is considered "Mobil1" I just wouldnt use it in a perforamnce car.

While it will likey work just fine,why make these compromises to performance if not waitring 10000 miles or more to change?

If you dont wait,too much of whats in the oil is ballast that gets in the way of lubricity.

Fred..

 

I put Mobil1 10w30 in my car, just checked the oil. After 2.7k my oil level WAS BELOW the low mark. Hope I didn't **** anything up! Anyway, 10w30 is definitely too thin, at least for my motor.

 

Interesting...I wish oil could be a bit less complicated.
Isn't Motul and AMSOil doing the same though since they are supposed to last about 12000 miles...? What's the difference?

 

Turbochargers are internally lubricated by the oil from the engine. Turbochargers are powered by exhaust gases and get hot. Inside the turbocharger are ball bearings that get very hot! For oil to continue to lubricant under those abnormally high temperatures special oil formulations are needed. Oils that perform just fine in normal engines will begin to oxidize and fail when subjected to the higher temperatures of a turbocharger.

 

You can find Royal Purple in the SFV area. RP is an excellent synthetic for all applications.

 

Absoluetly Mobil1 30 weights are among the thinnest in the industry thinner than some other 30 weights.